thinking of going solid roller, anyone else??
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thinking of going solid roller, anyone else?? has anyone went solid roller set up on an LT1?? or LS1 for that?? if so how do you like it? how is the driveability??? thinking of selling my SC unit to go this route.
the only downfall to solid is the amount of times you have to adjust. i recommend hydraulic unless you plan on going with a large lift. just my .02
if you do go that route, do a remote starter button and carry a ratchet and socket for your valve covers...
if you do go that route, do a remote starter button and carry a ratchet and socket for your valve covers...
So many times I hear people say SR's have to be constantly adjusted, that is incorrect if you have a good valvetrain and know what you are doing. I adjust mine once every few months and that's it. That being said I run Jessel's so there are no stud girdles to loosen up, I'm running 3/8" pushrods, Ferrera valves, Nextek springs, all race components and pushing over .710 lift.
It is all in how it's setup and setting the valve timing/lash correctly, there is no constant valve lash setting when done right.
It is all in how it's setup and setting the valve timing/lash correctly, there is no constant valve lash setting when done right.
Originally Posted by -PEPE-
So many times I hear people say SR's have to be constantly adjusted, that is incorrect if you have a good valvetrain and know what you are doing. I adjust mine once every few months and that's it. That being said I run Jessel's so there are no stud girdles to loosen up, I'm running 3/8" pushrods, Ferrera valves, Nextek springs, all race components and pushing over .710 lift.
It is all in how it's setup and setting the valve timing/lash correctly, there is no constant valve lash setting when done right.
It is all in how it's setup and setting the valve timing/lash correctly, there is no constant valve lash setting when done right.
PEPE is correct, do the initial adjustment at 500 miles after everything is worn in good. Then every 3-5000 after that. Unless you hear something goofy going on.
I have a BIG cam like PEPE has, not worried a bit. I have DRE shaft rockers, Comps best 5/16 pushrods,Tool Room springs, Xcelydyne titanium retainers and locks, Ferrea 6000 stainless valves. Comp pressurized solid roller lifters.
DO NOT skimp on valvetrain, pop for it up front, you will be much happier.
David
never had a solid roller, but had plenty of old school solid lifter cams. and never had good valvetrain either. only had to adj. couple times a year even when daily driving it. and for the most part, never had a reason to do it. just trying to be proactive and make sure its still on. the great part of a solid cam is you have some room to adj. the lash and where the power comes in at. tighter lash will act like a bigger cam. looser lash will act like a smaller cam. and once you get the hang of it, its not a big deal to adj. rockers either. goin to go that route for my LT1 when I transplant it into my Iroc since it looks like my car wont sell before winter.
chris
chris
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Originally Posted by -PEPE-
So many times I hear people say SR's have to be constantly adjusted, that is incorrect if you have a good valvetrain and know what you are doing. I adjust mine once every few months and that's it. That being said I run Jessel's so there are no stud girdles to loosen up, I'm running 3/8" pushrods, Ferrera valves, Nextek springs, all race components and pushing over .710 lift.
It is all in how it's setup and setting the valve timing/lash correctly, there is no constant valve lash setting when done right.
It is all in how it's setup and setting the valve timing/lash correctly, there is no constant valve lash setting when done right.
how much did it set you back, if you dont mind me asking???
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
PEPE is correct, do the initial adjustment at 500 miles after everything is worn in good. Then every 3-5000 after that. Unless you hear something goofy going on.
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I think alot more people are going the SR direction including my self. Valvetrain technology has come along way since the 70's and has become alot more advanced since then. If you look at all the n/a LT1 and even LS1's there all running SR's. It seems that if you really want to go fast, going solid is the way to go.
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
If this is gonna be a daily driver, I would not recommend a solid roller.
5000 miles on a "toy" such as mine and PEPE's car may be only every 6 months or more.
David
5000 miles on a "toy" such as mine and PEPE's car may be only every 6 months or more.
David
Originally Posted by 95 Formula
solid rollers are a pain in the ***...everyone stay away from them.
P.S. that is unless your trying to go faster than the normal guy running around on the streets.
P.S. that is unless your trying to go faster than the normal guy running around on the streets.
He He, yeh pull up next to me with your hydraulic roller.
David
Originally Posted by zboner
how much did it set you back, if you dont mind me asking???
Originally Posted by 95 Formula
solid rollers are a pain in the ***...everyone stay away from them.
P.S. that is unless your trying to go faster than the normal guy running around on the streets.
P.S. that is unless your trying to go faster than the normal guy running around on the streets.
do you guys with solids all run shaft mount rockers?
I'd like to run a mild solid roller but shaft mounts just aren't in my budget. will running just plain old comp pro mag rockers eliminate the benefits of running a solid? my old hydraulic only lasted 3,000 miles and I adjusted the valves 4 times (stupid comp Rs!) I don't have anything against adjusting valves haha. I want to run well into the 11s with stock heads and then see what I can do with a set of heads. trying spend money on a budget but smartly.
I'd like to run a mild solid roller but shaft mounts just aren't in my budget. will running just plain old comp pro mag rockers eliminate the benefits of running a solid? my old hydraulic only lasted 3,000 miles and I adjusted the valves 4 times (stupid comp Rs!) I don't have anything against adjusting valves haha. I want to run well into the 11s with stock heads and then see what I can do with a set of heads. trying spend money on a budget but smartly.
Originally Posted by -PEPE-
No more than you drive your car I'd say go hyd Vs. SR.
this part. did you mean, if you drive more miles then he says, then youd recomend HR, but if 3500 or less miles go SR? thats what I think you mean.
