I have K&N cold air intake and want to do alot more, but dont kno where to start? Plz any advice is appreciated!

Was thinking:
SLP air foil
SLP MAF sensor
March Underdrive pulleys
Slp loudmouth exhaust with off-road y pipe
Venom 400 comp module
???????????????????

 

how much money do you have? id go with headers and cat back/ or cut out

 

First off don't do the MAF, keep the stock one. The underdrive pulleys I heard were not worth much on lt1 cars but I have no experience. I would do Long Tube Headers, ORY, Catback, and a CAI. It all depends on how much your willing to spend also.

 

Not on a tight budget, but didnt want to get deep in the motor its a 95 Z28 and only has 30K miles on it!!

 

how much money do you have? id go with headers and cat back/ or cut out

I was looking at the Granatelli MAF sensor as-well, did you feel any gain??

 

Well, first i would do a full tune up before any mods. After that start with:cam, headers, cutout, stall, sfc, lca's. That should get you started.

 

Well, first i would do a full tune up before any mods. After that start with:cam, headers, cutout, stall, sfc, lca's. That should get you started.

Any specific cam? or size?
And i want to get long tubes but having trouble decided want brand??

 

Pacesetters are your best bang for the buck headers. The cam may want to wait a little before you get some more supporting mods. If its an Auto car get some 3.73 gears in the rear or if its a 6speed car get some 4.11's. If its an auto get a higher stall to match the cam you would be getting. Get either a catback or a cutout to put behind the headers and off road y pipe.

Maf = waste of mod money.Air foils can be found on LS1tech.com for $27 shipped.

 

Maf = waste of mod money.Air foils can be found on LS1tech.com for $27 shipped.

Yea all i hear is negative things bout the MAF, but what about the MAF ends that LS1tech sells??

 

do a good set of LT's get a stall gears tires do the free mods, maybe port the tb. then do a cam. no sense in doin a cam without supporting mods first. could always do nitrous!

 

do a good set of LT's get a stall gears tires do the free mods, maybe port the tb. then do a cam. no sense in doin a cam without supporting mods first. could always do nitrous!

Is it that easy to port n polish the TB yourself??

 

Headers, cat back, high flow cat, shift kit and stall if it's an auto, then tune it.

I didn't feel a damn thing from my air foil, nor has anyone else I've spoken to. I hear nothing but negatives about changing/ descreening the MAF. Leave it alone unless you make big power. Aftermarket underdrive pulleys are infamous for giving problems with charging. Apparently, they don't charge the alternator unless the motor is spinning at 1,000/ 1,100 RPM (I forget which) or above. Idle is usually at 800RPM, so you won't be charging at idle. I don't think you need to port your TB at stock power level. I don't know for sure, but I don't think you'll actually get anything out of it.

Go for things which have given concrete results, such as the throttle body bypass, intake and exhaust mods, gears, shift kits and convertor, and don't forget about your suspension. Lower control arms and relocation brackets will help with traction. All the power in the world won't do a damn thing for you if you just sit there roasting your tires. You can look into weight reduction, like pulling the back seats if you don't use them and replacing your spare and jack with a can of Fix a Flat.

 

i always heard air foils are a waste , but prepare to be in for alot of noise with that LM and ORY.

 

I didn't feel a damn thing from my air foil, nor has anyone else I've spoken to. I hear nothing but negatives about changing/ descreening the MAF. Leave it alone unless you make big power. Aftermarket underdrive pulleys are infamous for giving problems with charging. Apparently, they don't charge the alternator unless the motor is spinning at 1,000/ 1,100 RPM (I forget which) or above. Idle is usually at 800RPM, so you won't be charging at idle. I don't think you need to port your TB at stock power level. I don't know for sure, but I don't think you'll actually get anything out of it.

Go for things which have given concrete results, such as the throttle body bypass, intake and exhaust mods, gears, shift kits and convertor, and don't forget about your suspension. Lower control arms and relocation brackets will help with traction. All the power in the world won't do a damn thing for you if you just sit there roasting your tires. You can look into weight reduction, like pulling the back seats if you don't use them and replacing your spare and jack with a can of Fix a Flat

You are right I need to focus on stuff that has proven results, but its so hard to tell what works uless you test it urself because everyone has different opinions on wether things really do give you the few more HP that you looking for!!

 

i got an airfoil, it makes like 10 horse lol.

 

Well, by concrete I mean things that are guaranteed to work. Not some people feel it and other don't, things that everyone notices. You'll definitely notice gears (consensus is 3.73's for auto's and 4.10's for 6 speeds), you'll definitely feel headers, the TB bypass is proven to give about 5 to the wheels and despite the fact that some people don't actually feel a difference in power, it's so cheap that it's pointless NOT to do it. You can't go wrong with suspension upgrades. Lower control arms and relocation brackets will aid big time with traction. Aside from that, a tune will give you plenty of power, plus it will probably improve throttle response and fuel economy. You can get a used PCM for maybe $60, send it out to PCMforless or MadZ28 for reprogramming and swap it with your stock PCM.

Honestly, when you think about mods, think about the long run. If you want to make big power then get mods which will work well with a H/C/I package, or with a power adder. If you really want to make big power, your best bet is probably to do your exhaust and get an aftermarket rear end, then to upgrade your transmission or get an aftermarket clutch, plus a good strong steel driveshaft. If you just want a little more kick, exhaust work, TB bypass, weight reduction and a tune, plus some suspension work would probably make you happy. By weight reduction, I don't mean that you need to strip your car down. Things like switching to lighter rims and tires, plus a 1LE driveshaft, a dry cell battery and racing seats will all add up. I felt a difference after pulling my spare, jack and back seats and that's only 60lbs. I would imagine dropping another 150lbs would be extremely noticeable.

I thought I added this link before, but I guess not. This guy did a bunch of mods and dyno'd his car afterwards. This will show you what works and what doesn't. Notice the air foil barely does anything-
http://ws6.com/mycar.htm

 

I have to agree with alot of people on this subject....... I'd say to get.....
Pacesetter LT's and 3" ORY
A good Catback- SLP= LOUD, Magnaflow = Stainless Steel & deep tone, Hooker = agressive sound when without a cat(quiet at idle & opens up at WOT)
Gears- 3.73's if highway use is not a big factor, 3.42's if you drive on the highway alot
With 3.42's in OD on the freeway I'm at 81 mph at 2500 rpm........
Definentely a stall but prolly want to do that when you do a cam (they work together)
A good CAI kit (moroso or K&N) try to stay away from the metal ones(SLP,GMPP) if poss. they hold more heat resulting in less performance.
And of course suspension and some good street radials for traction
Not much good in modding if you can't put your new power to the ground. Some people end up losing time in the 1/4 b/c they can't get the car to launch without tearing the tires off.............GOOD LUCK! keep us posted as you mod.

 

Thanks for that website it really helped me make up my mind on where to spend my money. Ordered a TB bypass, Underdrive Pulleys, and Long Tube Pacesetters. Now just trying to see where i can find slp loudmouths the cheapest. Will let you kno how everything feels and deff looking into that Power Loader ll programer!! Thanks for sending me in the right direction

 

As far as PCMforless tunning, should i get a new pcm programmed n sent to me or should i jus get the programmed chip?????

 

Long tube headers, CAI, SFCS, Tune, port throttle body, gears, driveshaft=LS1