LS1 Swap
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Leander, TX
LS1 Swap I have my reasons. Long story short I had an LT1 blow up on me. I got it rebuilt(355 forged) and have been chasing down electrical and ignition gremlins ever since. So I'm selling my shortblock and have an LS1 lined up to buy. So I was wondering EXACTLY what I have to buy for an LS1 swap. This is what I have so far.
-New PCM
-Wiring Harness
-Headers
-Air intake
-Hood
-K member or motor mounts?? Not sure on this one?
-Hydraulics(clutch and such) again not sure exactly
Look good so far? Anything I'm missing or can anybody tell me exactly what K member or motor mounts to buy? Thanks in advance for the input. I did a search but couldn't get all my answers.
-New PCM
-Wiring Harness
-Headers
-Air intake
-Hood
-K member or motor mounts?? Not sure on this one?
-Hydraulics(clutch and such) again not sure exactly
Look good so far? Anything I'm missing or can anybody tell me exactly what K member or motor mounts to buy? Thanks in advance for the input. I did a search but couldn't get all my answers.
I was at Berger Chevrolet a few days ago and asked what replacement engine they have for LT1's. I was told that there is a specific book that details the LT1 to LS1 swap since there really is NO direct replacement for the LT1. It's called the LS1 Engine Kit Installation Guide, GM part no. 88959384. Obviously I haven't looked at it but maybe it's a start.
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 320
Likes: 0
From: ohio
Theres a guy on here name is >the merv< that did the swap sure he could help answer some of your ? What kinda shocks me is that no one to date has came out with a full swap kit for these cars. Minus engine and tranny.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Leander, TX
Trending Topics
My Reputation preceeds me..
Thanks for the refrence..
I got your PM bro, and I sent you one back.
I did the complete swap, Built my own Harness, everything..even built something a little nastier than a LS1..and with even using a LS1 Lid, still fits under the Stock Hood.
Thanks for the refrence..
I got your PM bro, and I sent you one back.
I did the complete swap, Built my own Harness, everything..even built something a little nastier than a LS1..and with even using a LS1 Lid, still fits under the Stock Hood.
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so...merv, there the eff were you when i blew my motor up? it didnt dawn on me to do an LS1 swap till like 4 months later...lol. OH WELL!!!! anyways, im in arkansas now, not sure how far from arkadelphia is from you though.
Definately go with an LS1 swap if you can. its completely worth it, they respond better to mods and whatnot. You may also wanna get a shop lined up to do your exhaust. Radiator may need to be replaced?
Definately go with an LS1 swap if you can. its completely worth it, they respond better to mods and whatnot. You may also wanna get a shop lined up to do your exhaust. Radiator may need to be replaced?
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
From: Spencerport, NY
So is the LS1 swap really worth it? I love LS1's. LT1's are great but LS1's are better. Now aside from that, I have a pretty much stock LT1 except for a few bolt-ons(in sig) and If I wanted to chase down 450-500 RWHP would it really be that much better to convert or build up the LT1 cost wise. My LT1 could use an overhaul and I would like to convert to an M6 either way...
lets jsut say. I spent about 1600 rebuilding my LT1, that was with headers, tune, and exhaust being welding all the way back.
With that being said, if i could do it alllll over again, i would've spent 2grand and swapped in an LS1. The only part that could get agrivating would be setting up the wiring harness to run with your guages and whatnot.
Ls1's respond so much better to the mods you feed it. an LT1 needs to drop about full boltons and a H/C combo to get near 450. Whereas an LS1 with an MS4 cam in it will hit 400 HP, thats 400 HP from a CAM alone.
If you have the money and the time ( about a month or two if you plan on having free time and an extra car to drive ) DEFINATELY swap out to an LS1. The car will be more reliable and less of a B***ch to work on.
I just wish that someone wouldve suggested all this prior to me swapping out my motor...
With that being said, if i could do it alllll over again, i would've spent 2grand and swapped in an LS1. The only part that could get agrivating would be setting up the wiring harness to run with your guages and whatnot.
Ls1's respond so much better to the mods you feed it. an LT1 needs to drop about full boltons and a H/C combo to get near 450. Whereas an LS1 with an MS4 cam in it will hit 400 HP, thats 400 HP from a CAM alone.
If you have the money and the time ( about a month or two if you plan on having free time and an extra car to drive ) DEFINATELY swap out to an LS1. The car will be more reliable and less of a B***ch to work on.
I just wish that someone wouldve suggested all this prior to me swapping out my motor...
I'd love to swap my 6.0 into my 95 or swap it into an Iroc. I really want a IROC. That would be a real sleeper, IROC's don't get much respect. I think a 408 L92 like Merv's could change that!
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Anderson, IN
Speartech can do it where you can run factory gauges.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Anderson, IN
Yeah go to www.Speartech.com to check his stuff out. He's a sponsor on here. He does custom wiring harnesses. Check around on LS1tech he's very recommended. He's somebody you can call and get an answer unlike somebody else like painless or anybody. He knows his stuff.
i highly recommend a tub. k memeber from bmr, pa racing, etc.
6.0 iron engine with ls6 or l92 heads,
ls1 headers will work with your car
hydraulics for clutch are ls1 specific, SDPC has all the conversion pices readily available, located in el paso tx
need ls1 t56 trans bridge
ls1 t56, if your car was m6, ls1 t56 will work with minimal mods
stand alone harnes and pcm for control of engine only,
i recommend use of autometer gages, rather than having stock gage cluster
wired to work with ls sensors, but thats me
.030 over 6.0= 365ci
i ahve done this swap 2 times for lt1 car and 2 for v6 car
i recommend u go with pp fuel rails and adapt to your stock return fuel system using fittings, with aeromotive fpr, and walbr0 225lph pump
forget about using stock fuel rail with c5 fpr/filter.
i have found that it is easier to adapt to lt1 car,
adj. fpr and return fuel system are superior for perf. application, than stock
dedhed ls1 system.
one thing i might add, if u are serious about swapping a ls motor in your car, the experience will be a pleasure and will go smoothly. and will come together
easy.
6.0 iron engine with ls6 or l92 heads,
ls1 headers will work with your car
hydraulics for clutch are ls1 specific, SDPC has all the conversion pices readily available, located in el paso tx
need ls1 t56 trans bridge
ls1 t56, if your car was m6, ls1 t56 will work with minimal mods
stand alone harnes and pcm for control of engine only,
i recommend use of autometer gages, rather than having stock gage cluster
wired to work with ls sensors, but thats me
.030 over 6.0= 365ci
i ahve done this swap 2 times for lt1 car and 2 for v6 car
i recommend u go with pp fuel rails and adapt to your stock return fuel system using fittings, with aeromotive fpr, and walbr0 225lph pump
forget about using stock fuel rail with c5 fpr/filter.
i have found that it is easier to adapt to lt1 car,
adj. fpr and return fuel system are superior for perf. application, than stock
dedhed ls1 system.
one thing i might add, if u are serious about swapping a ls motor in your car, the experience will be a pleasure and will go smoothly. and will come together
easy.