GreenBlood

iTrader: (6)

anything 92-96 is cool with me, as long as its 10g or less...and has an LT1 or LT4...

vetman1

iTrader: (4)

Husband wanted it gone. He never liked the car. He is into rice and made her get a Mazda SUV: barf: That car was flawless no chips in the hood or bumper no scratches pristine, with new tires too. I think she should have to him to **** off, but thats not any of my business.

METALBEAST

iTrader: (1)

I bought a 1992 Black Rose Metallic (purple) A4 vette back in 2002 with 98K for $9800. I freshened up the bottom end, bought some shitty ported heads from More Performance, put in a hot cam, 2400 stall, shorty headers, flowmaster force II catback, lid and K&N. Car ran consistent 12.9s@107-108 with stock street tires, 2.1-2.2 60's with the stock 2.59 gears. Added 3.73s to it later. On the first pass the car spun and trapped 114.2. On another warm humid night at Commerce, put some sticky tires on it after it had made SEVERAL hot passes. Car ran a 12.5@110. In good weather, with the car cooled down, it would have probably ran 12.2-11.9s@112-115.

METALBEAST

iTrader: (1)

Keep looking and you WILL find one for that. Like I said mine was $9800 6 years ago. I have saw plenty of M6s go for that now.

GreenBlood

iTrader: (6)

cool, my main search will begin around the end of december because thats when I'll have all of the money...are there long tube header options for these cars?

vetman1

iTrader: (4)

I dont think so but you might try a searc. Most people use shorties, but I dont know if it is because LT's are not available or people just dont use them.

H82GOSLW

iTrader: (2)

You, my friend, have no idea what you're talking about. The only way a C4 will leave a C5 in the "twistys" is if the driver of the C5 has no clue as to what they're doing. I've owned 2 C5s ('98 coupe and '01 Z06) and have driven many C4s and the C5 trounces the C4 in every performance category. Just about everything is different between the two cars....frame,motor,tranny, suspension etc. I found the C5 to be far more comfortable to drive and far more responsive at tracks like Watkins Glen and Limerock. I now have a '96 Z28 with numerous suspension and motor mods and was able to drive that as fast as my Corvettes at Watkins Glen.

About the only thing you got right is join corvetteforum and learn about the cars. That being said, to the OP, buy as new a car as you can afford.

METALBEAST

iTrader: (1)

They do but they are EXTREMELY expensive. When I had mine, I was looking for some and the only ones I could find at the time (2003-2004) were TPIS Headers that cost $700+ dollars. That is why I bought my Hooker shorties at the time and they cost about $300. There MAY be more options now but I don't think there are many.

H82GOSLW

iTrader: (2)

That is what's called the "Corvette Tax", as in be prepared to pay two to three times as much for any and all parts because it's for a Corvette. A simple cat back for both my C5s cost me around $750. Same amount of money bought me a whole LT exhaust/Y Pipe/Magnaflow for my F body.

AF cop

The hooker headers 2149s or 2151s for the L98 cars work very well if you want longtubes. They run about $550coated.

A good late C4 driven at 9/10ths is as fast as a C5 driven at 8.5/10ths but the C5 is a better car, even if it is a bit more generic IMO.

sbs

iTrader: (1)

Most of your questions can be answered with a google search.

Except for the ones that come with 3.07s. And the ones that have been upgraded by a PO.

I don't know the F-body well, but I expect you will find the C4 to be worse in these areas.

You won't find many low-mileage C4 LT1s under 10k. Pretty nice ones can be had in the 12-15k range.

Almost nobody uses shorties on C4s. Tons of people have LTs. The common wisdom on the corvette forums is that shorties are no better than stock manifolds. Which is not what the dyno charts say, but the sheep follow it...

Not on a C4.

And then once you hit your first bump on a mountain curve, you'll be back to "Ew leaf spring."

And a large % of people who road race/autoX C4s convert to coilovers.

Nope.

His heavily-modded C4, apparently.

Not if you have traction it isn't

A C4 is not a lot smaller than a C5. But maybe you are talking about interior space? The C4 is indeed "cozier" inside.

aboatguy

Yes, Melrose, Stainless Works, Exotic Muscle and others offer Long tubes. I have EM Longtubes on mine.

I love all of the misinformation that has been espoused on this thread. Do yourself a favor and take a ride in a couple of C4s and even check out some C5s. I'm 6'3" and I fit in my 95 but not my buddies 92, due to the seats and halo bar. Most C4s squeek and rattle, in 95 GM went on a noise abatement program to eliminate them.

If I were starting over I'd skip the C4 and jump into a C5 it is so much easier to squeeze power out of the LSX.


Mike

phirepower

iTrader: (2)

I restore vette's, believe me you don't really want an lt1 vette, they suck to get in and out of. And after 50k miles the interior falls apart. Nice looking car though, and they can be fast, but seriously man, save your money, because they have all of the downfalls as your current car, and the digital gauges suck to fix and to read imo. they are four bolts though

sbs

iTrader: (1)

I'll have to make a note to replace my interior, since it has 80k on it, even though it mostly looks new.

When I was shopping for my car 5 years ago, I drove about 25 LTx vettes, and one or two of them were a little ragged inside. None were "falling apart." I've since seen a lot more LTx vettes, some with 150-200k on them, and most of them are in better condition than your average GM product at 30k.

Interior condition on any car is primarily a function of the owner. In comparison with F-bodies, vettes were purchased new by older people with a lot more money and were generally taken much better care of. If you can get a one or two-owner car it will most likely be in better condition than any other GM product with similar age/mileage.

Perhaps you are thinking of the early C4 with the digital cluster.

The LTx vettes have a very nice analog instrument cluster, and in the 4.5 years I've been on corvetteforum I don't recall any threads on LTx cluster failures. Which isn't to say there haven't been _any_ because I might have missed them, but it sure isn't a common problem.

If a cluster did break, the "sucks to fix" would consists of 30-60 minutes to R/R with a used cluster, which would cost $150-200. I haven't looked recently, but brand new clusters were still available a few months ago from GM for somewhere in the $250-300 range.

BLACKTALON

The kid is missing the big picture. Just cause you can buy the car,doesn't mean you can afford the car.Every thing on the Vette is gonna cost you 2x what it would on a F-body.Take tires,My car has 315's out back.You don't go to mom's and pop's rubber and say ya got these on the shelf. bottom line tires for vettes are $.Are you prepaired to pay $300 plus just for a water pump.How about When the waterpump leakes and trashes your opti. Unless your a good wrench your talking mega cash.Say you need breaks,My front pads from GM are $125 a piece.Ok The Vette has power windows right? let the motor go south.Don't forget the headlight on the Vette are ran by actuaitors (sp) Guess what They coust $$$. From what I read your 19yrs old INS is gonna kill ya.Hears a VETTE fact for ya The C4 cost more to INS than the C5. This thread shows how little people know about the Vette in general.

And for the vette fact The C4's hood and fenders are one.Smash the fender ya gotta buy a hood and the other fender.That why its more to insure.

BLACKTALON

And my car dosen't have the 1985 pac-man dash that you called a cluster. My car came wit LCD/analogue tach!!!