a local guy is selling his cam and my buddy is thinking about buying it. has anyone ran this cam or anything similar.he has a lt4 hot cam is this worth the cam swap? Here is the link. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...s=false&N=+115

 

thats a pretty big cam.. Id say go for it but hell need a big stall and gears for it. Is it at least cheap?

 

its worth the swap if he is going to replace everything that needs to be changed, like valve springs some decent headwork, fuel system a good tune, gears, stall, valvetrain etc.....its a hell of a big difference from a hot cam.

 

that is huge i would do A LOT more research before you go with anything near that size. choose a cam that is for your set up. also you didn't tell us anything about his car. a4 m6 gears, converter, milage, dd, weekend car, track car? all that stuff plays a pretty big role in what cam to pick.

 

There's no way I'd tell someone what cam to pick unless I knew more about how it was to be used, the existing mods to the car/motor, n/a or spray, etc, etc...Thats a big cam with a somewhat wide lsa...larger durations like that require lots of gear and converter to make work...I wouldn't recommend it for a street car...I like smaller durations with high lift and a wee bit tighter on the lsa for n/a stuff, but like I said before I don't know what the intentions are with this cam, so I can't recommend it...

--Alan

 

dude, that bitch is huge! if you're using it definitely set that up well and reep the benefits. but yea, more detail is needed. i would never throw that in a car that is more or less stock. re-do the valve-train and heads for that.

 

yea i can get the cam and springs for 150

 

it is a 95 formula stock 3:23 gears,basic bolt ons,355ci,stock heads and intake, lt4 hot cam, built tranny by local guy, stock converter beefed up(not sure how much), 100 dry shot. about 5,000 miles on motor. this car is his DD. but he only works about 2 miles from his house.

 

That cam belongs more so in a 383 stroker with some sick heads than a stock headed 355. He would have to shift that damn thing at 7000rpm to get the power out of it, I wouldnt be supprised if he would run faster on the track with the hotcam than with that considering the mods he has.

 

ok so do you think a LE package would be better. and which level?

 

what is loyd elliots web site?

 

Heres the link for LE
http://www.eportworks.com/lt1.html

 

hows the drivability on the le2 package and what else would you recomend to go along with it?

 

the cam mentioned in that link iw WAY too big unless he installs a 3.73/4.11 gear and 3600-4000 stall and is willing to shift at 6800 RPM with not much power in the low end at all. Even still, there are better cam choices to do that if he is wanting to.

A 3.23 geared car will want something in the low to mid 220's (GM 846, CC 503, etc) on duration to accelerate the car very well. Great drivability while still giving an increase in HP and TQ.

Lloyd

 

Too big for a DD

 

i think that is the biggest small block cam i have seen.

 

well the 3:73's will be installed at the same time the cam is , how much of a differance in cam choice will it make.

 

I will say driving a car with a huge cam, big gear and bigger stall is a BLAST to drive!! lol. No getting around that. And you deff. get nasty looks from old people or people on cell phones when you drive next to um. Buy that cam and build the motor with and and youll have one kickass car!!

 

I would say that cam is not the best choice for a N/A cam but would react well with the bottle. Some people claim to have problems with the XFI cams which I think comes down to valve spring selection.

 

going from a 3.23 to a 3.73 gear and using a 3600 stall will make this cam a semi-bad choice instead of a horrible choice.

A bigger cam makes more top end power but less low and mid range power. Just because some people make good power with a certain cam doesn't mean the car would not be faster or make more power with a different (and sometimes smaller) cam.

The more duration you run, the higher in the RPM range the HP and TQ curve are. A 240+ duration cam will wanna pull from 3500 to 6500-6800 RPM with stock heads and not make much power below 3500 RPM. As long as the car ahs some gear and stall to keep the engine in this RPM range, he will be OK with the way the car runs in this RPM. If he has to drive the car often and have the thing cruise around at a low RPM or want the car to accelerate very well at 1500-3000 RPM range (where most street driving is done), he needs a cam with less duration.

He can still use less duration and a tighter LSA to raise the dynamic compression so it makes more low and mid range power while still making the same top end power as that cam.

Next thing is will the stock bottom end last long at that RPM . . . . usually not. You are better under camming than overcamming and the "right" cam is always the best choice but most have no idea what the "right" cam is.

I am not sure of what he is wanting to do with the car, what kinda drivability he is willing to sacrifice, if he is running 3.23/3.73 gaers, what stall he is gonna run or if it is a 6 speed, etc, etc but the CC 503 (224/230 112 LSA) cam is pretty much a safe choice for any F body. It will allow a stock bottom end to last since you are shifting at 6200 RPM or so, can work with inexpensive springs, has descent drivability in all gears and any RPM.

If you have the 3.73 gears and 3600 stalla nd are willing to shift at 6500-6800 RPM, get the GM 847 cam and you will happier that the cam you have mentioned.

lloyd