LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Input with making a stock headed cam guide

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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 03:39 PM
  #41  
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I would argue your statement that the LT4 springs are tailored for the HOT cam, they are insufficient for the HOT cam despite GM selling the kit that way. They are an OLD design that happened to be in the parts bin so they used them.
There is more to cam and spring matching than just lift, the HOT lobes are very mild and even if those springs were good enough for it the more aggressive lobes of aftermarket cam will push them into float at even lower lift.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
I would argue your statement that the LT4 springs are tailored for the HOT cam, they are insufficient for the HOT cam despite GM selling the kit that way. They are an OLD design that happened to be in the parts bin so they used them.
There is more to cam and spring matching than just lift, the HOT lobes are very mild and even if those springs were good enough for it the more aggressive lobes of aftermarket cam will push them into float at even lower lift.
Im glad you said that I think I recall hearing that they are insufficient to the hot cam even that they're offered in the package.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 04:35 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by StealthFormula
SA or NSA?: Self-Aligning should work fine for any of the cams listed above. Non-Self Aligning is cheap insurance that can handle high rpm rev's better because the use of guideplates will ensure that the studs will not break off the rockers like they potentially could on Self-Aligning. NSA use 7/16" studs which is stronger than the 3/8" studs that most SA Rockers have. Non-Self Aligning will require the use of Hardened Chromemoly Pushrods and Guideplates (8).
Not sure exactly what you're trying to say here but it doesn't make sense to me.

I think you mean that the guideplates will ensure that the rockers can't slip off the valve tips.

Good work on putting this together. It should help out alot of people if they actually read it.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by flame
Not sure exactly what you're trying to say here but it doesn't make sense to me.

I think you mean that the guideplates will ensure that the rockers can't slip off the valve tips.

Good work on putting this together. It should help out alot of people if they actually read it.
yes thanks i must have been getting confused with the studs there.


I emailed Comp Cams and LPE etc. to find out what minimum size stall speed would be recommended for each cam and if for an M6 the gear ratio should be changed and got answers for all except the crane 227 and lt4 "hot cam" if anyone has anything to add to that.
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 02:10 AM
  #45  
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Wow this thread answered a lot of basic questions I had...thanks everyone for the info.

Now my next question:

I'm going with the CC227 cam, Crane gold 1.6 RR's, CRN-10308-1 springs. Now my car has ~90k miles on it and I think it might be a good idea to change the lifters...but I dont know which ones to go with. Any recommendations?

Thanks
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 02:21 AM
  #46  
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***make a asterik statement, saying that you are not liable for what goes wrong with this information. beyond that, nice job, and why the PHUQ is this not stickied????? this could have helped us all out at one time, better help out the new guys right?

sticky it now!
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 09:52 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by mhayes2344
Wow this thread answered a lot of basic questions I had...thanks everyone for the info.

Now my next question:

I'm going with the CC227 cam, Crane gold 1.6 RR's, CRN-10308-1 springs. Now my car has ~90k miles on it and I think it might be a good idea to change the lifters...but I dont know which ones to go with. Any recommendations?

Thanks
i went with the gm performance lifters , but i hear alot of people are using the ls7 lifters too.
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