Vicious95Z28

iTrader: (1)

I hate you so much! Just kidding, PM me some pointers

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

I love how everyone with bolton cars think its easy to build a 9 second car with 10k.

mario89

iTrader: (15)

see the problem with most people is that they read with the advertising is on each part, like cold air 20hp, headers 50 etc.. trottle body 30 etc. and then they add all that a think thats what they have and the car should fly,, but in reality it doesnt work that way, otherwise the cars i build would all have 1500 horsepower by now..

LittleRedZ

iTrader: (5)

lets see
good rear 2gs
trans 1300+converter 1k
Supsension 2gs
Heads 1800
Cam 300
lifters,springs,retainers...ah hell lets go easy and say 500
wheels/tires 1k
I guess you would use an ls6 intake and stock TB not sure what those run used fill me in not sure what those run but if i have to guess $250
You need headers cheapest 400? longtubes, gonna run mufflers?
Lid $200
i really hope you arent using stock buttom end, if you are the stock pistons arent going to last, easiest thing to do is upgrade the rods and pistons .10 over that would run roughly about $2500
Shifter $200
Driveshaft $250 minimum
How about a tune? are you going to buy ls1 edit...etc? or somone is going to dyno tune? if so i would guess at least $500 right there
Nitrous lets be real you not running 9s on a $500 dollar kit not without a fuel system. $700 nitrous system complet + fuel pump $150+injectors another $400? or you could always do a direct port with a stand alone fuel system with a little tank by the battery it would cost about $1200-$1500

To make a car last any kind of passes running 9s using NEW parts you would have to spent at least ^^^^^^that.
and you know damn well theres always something else i'm forgetting its never that easy if a 9sec list looked that simple literaly everyone would do it
and we talking about a ls1 here if i have to guess a good 15gs if you have to do it yourself and that sorta half assing stuff, a good consistant running ls1 to run 9s would cost 20k easy.
Its simple though go on make a thread in the nitrous section on what people have invested in their cars and how fast have their gone i can almost gurantee you that there will be nobody that says they spent 10gs and running 9s.

LittleRedZ

iTrader: (5)

YOu are not in the wrong industry in order to install 10 point cage everything has to come out of the car, take everything out to bare metal and put it back in let me know how long it takes you, now take your time and do it right, go ahead paint the cage tape all the windows make sure the carpet going around the cage looks good and dash where the front bars go trough is nice and neat. Then hope it passes the cert. inspection. Let me know how many of these jobs you do before your back gives out and you cant walk after you do 2-3. 10 point steel cage with window net the way i want it done tucked out of the way so your helmet dosent hit the hallow is 2grand

LittleRedZ

iTrader: (5)

First of all buld and fab is one thing and buy is another i spent 2grand on mine and i got a 35spline with 3.50 gear and a spool nothing special.
Not everyone can FAB and BUILD their own stuff, might as well not even have this conversation if you going to think that way, you might call the nascar shop adn fab and build your own suspension for half the price too.
But i tell you what when you go consistant 9s let me know how much you spent i guarantee you it will be alot more then 10gs.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

Im gonna put a few things out there, im no pro so dont get all bent, just this is what i think....



lets see
good rear 2gs--------------build my fab9 for under under $1000
trans 1300+converter 1k---- can get a th350 and converter for $800ish
Supsension 2gs---- used qa1's, TA, CE shocks, panhard bar used $1000
Heads 1800----- OK
Cam 300------OK
lifters,springs,retainers...ah hell lets go easy and say $500
wheels/tires 1k-- use the stockers with a good slick $350
I guess you would use an ls6 intake and stock TB not sure what those run used fill me in not sure what those run but if i have to guess $250---- Its a lt1, none of this ls1 junk! lol j/k But a $100 TB
You need headers cheapest 400? longtubes, gonna run mufflers?
Lid $200--- cheap headers and no mufflers $150
i really hope you arent using stock buttom end, if you are the stock pistons arent going to last, easiest thing to do is upgrade the rods and pistons .10 over that would run roughly about $2500--- never build a bottomend so i dunno
Shifter $200---- why? put it "D" and go
Driveshaft $250 minimum----OK
How about a tune? are you going to buy ls1 edit...etc? or somone is going to dyno tune? if so i would guess at least $500 right there
Nitrous lets be real you not running 9s on a $500 dollar kit not without a fuel system. $700 nitrous system complet + fuel pump $150+injectors another $400? or you could always do a direct port with a stand alone fuel system with a little tank by the battery it would cost about $1200-$1500---- Id say a $1000 tops

To make a car last any kind of passes running 9s using NEW parts you would have to spent at least ^^^^^^that.
and you know damn well theres always something else i'm forgetting its never that easy if a 9sec list looked that simple literaly everyone would do it

Now granted theres sued parts in there but it saved you $4800. AGAIN, im no EXPERT so dont flame me too much. Just my 2 cents...

And note this is not gonna be a show car build, only a car to get a 9.9999 slip.

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

You beat me to this^^^^ was going to say the same thing...

--Alan

LittleRedZ

iTrader: (5)

you not getting a lt1 to go 9s with a stock buttom end and heads/cam, realistic thing is a good 383 shortblock is 4k, top end stuff is going to be another 4k. headers/waterpump/optispark...etc is more $$ at this point youre at best 450rwhp through a 6speed which is good for mid to low 11s you have to spray 220 or so, you cant do it with a single jet system no way, have to use a direct port system another 1500.
4800 to run 9s yes thats it you be luck to run 11s for 4800 let alone 10s.

LittleRedZ

iTrader: (5)

not to mention about removing the windshield now forgive me i'm going to sound like a rookie here simply because i still dont even have a cage in my car but somone has mention about removing the windshield in order to install the front 2 bars correctly, like i said i might be wrong though.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

I know that, im not sayin stock bottom end, i was keeping it in the build up. No way a stock bottom end is getting into the 9's. Everything i didnt note on stayed. And im not sayin your gonna run 9's on $4800, i was saying if you bought parts used you can SAVE $4800.

r_trigg

iTrader: (1)

Well, I've been one of the most vocal. I have a legitmate 9.40 car that anyone can see...any time. I built it myself, and will be happy to answer any questions regarding any aspect of the car. I have posted pictures of the HOGAN sheet metal intake atop the motor and a few wheels up pics...on this forum. Anyway, enough about me, by I think I am a credible source.

No, I didn't build my car for 10K, I have probably 3x amount in my car today. But it can certainly be done if your goals are only to go fast.

Since I have had my car for 12 years...since new. It has gone through several stages. The first serious combination was a set of ported LT1 heads by Greg Good. You can still find references of these heads on old f-body websites where Jody Shapiro logged flow numbers. These were some of the best. I paid $1500 way back when for the work. I had a $169 3.75" stroke, Scat cast steel crank and a set of Howard 6" rods. I think they were $399. The pistons were budget Wiseco Pro-Tru...these were $300-$400 dollars as well. The car had a 10 bolt with 3:73 motive gears and a 6 speed with an RPS clutch. I think the clutch was $600. I had a NOS dry system from the early days...coupled with a home built wet system...using a couple of borrowed fogger nozzles. Total was about 250HP...100HP dry 150 wet. The headers were a set of Grottyohann's I bought second hand (but unused) for $400. I had, and still have today, an adjustable torque arm made by a company called Totally Automotive Performance (TAP). I think they went belly-up shortly after I bought it (circa '95)...because I was supposed to get LCA's and they never came. I could not locate the company after a short period of time. Anyway, I put a setup 120# springs in the back which were $50 each from a circle track vendor. I called METCO and ordered a set of relocation brackets for the stock LCA's...another $50. NO OTHER SUSPENSION MODS! The car ran 10.30's with this combo...9 years ago. I attended and won multiple f-body shoot outs from Memphis to Hallsville, Texas etc. The car was, and still is, approx #3650 with driver. Oh, I used a set of circle track steel wheels on "wide 5" adapters back in the day...still have pictures from Memphis shootout in '97

Anyway, the car is much different today. But add those dollar above. That wasn't a lot of money...and you are only looking at another 3/10's to be in the 9's. For the differerence to get to $10K it could have been done.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Can we have a link to the Mustang in the 9's for 10K?

I think you can do it with used parts.

This Clints car, it was in GM high tech performance

T/ALT1-9.83@136mph, 95 T/A, 355 LT1, 10.5.1, CC306, LE Trickflows,
LT4 intake, stock injectors, 3800 PI converter, TH350, 8.8" rear, 3.55's, 175 shot, 3,450lbs


Here is your holy grail, the car above.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ure/index.html

David

r_trigg

iTrader: (1)

To both you wise asses!!! Take a look at this NHRA link:

roll cages specs

You do not require a 10 point cage at 9.99!!!

Also as previously state, too many people "over build"...maybe it is just pure ignorance.

Actually, if I read this correctly. A certified 6-point cage is just fine to 7.50 in a full bodied car. Note I said "cage" and not "roll bar". Cage implies front halo and down bars.

So, as I clearly stated, my $475 Wolfe cage is just fine. I rolled the carpet back and stitch welded the 6x6 plates. I did remove anything in my car other than the rear plastic interior pieces...as my rear down bar go to the rear fender wells. I later cut holes and refitted these panels.

As usual you guys don't know crap about race cars. I could go on and on...but simply you guys are WRONG.

Davey J

you are wrong bro here is a cut and paste right from your link

If the floor and/or firewall has been modified, then a full roll cage is required beginning at a 10.99 e.t. A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.). The roll cage must be constructed of minimum 1 5/8 o.d.x .118 mild steel tubing, or 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing, and must conform to the following diagram:


btw a full cage is a 10 point a six point is a rollbar

SickboyT/A

hitting 9's is no easy task...its so easy to go mid/bottom 11's, crack 10's with not too much done, but that hp vs. et graph has a f*cking STEEP and quick ramp it in to go quicker than mid 10's...

FOR EXAMPLE (which means dont tear me apart for inaccurate #'s), it'll take the average lt1 builder/racer 400rwhp to go 11.0, doesn't sound like a lot compared to stock hp to have alot lower et and be a damn quick car...but now, to go 10.0, just 1 second faster, you're going to need close to 600rwhp to hurl your car even faster through the air to trip the beams

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

400rwhp is about 11.70 -12.10 depending on driver and weight of car.

I have 463 rwhp and run 11.0(ish) but I am at 3800lbs raceweight. But I am setup for the track.

with a 175 shot of gas I might crack the 9's.

I think the et to power is equal to way into the 9's, for every 100rwhp you gain 10(ish)mph of trap speed in the same car, same weight. And 1 second of ET, the reason the curve gets steeper is traction and how to work the chassis at that power level.

The ET's vary, but the mph is still showing up on the scoreboard from the added power.



David

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Man I dont know what planet YOU have been racing on, but for YEARS it has been a standing rule a 6 point is only good to 10.00, 9.99 is a 10 point.

And furthermore your bolt in 6 point is ONLY good to 10.0 if the downbars off the hoop to the rear are welded TO the hoop.

Go and try to run your car faster than 9.99 at a NHRA track and see if they send you home.

David

slick1851

Spray it using a garden hose!

r_trigg

iTrader: (1)

Again, you have no idea what you ar talking about. Who said ANYTHING about having a modified floor or firewall. Uh, nobody!! We are talking a cage good for 9.99...actually it is good to 7.50. We are not talking about a 4 cylinder car that has firewall cutout to sandwich in a big block...or a car with sheet metal interior replacing the fllor pan. It is obvious you don't understand the NHRA rules. Your above state simply soes not apply to a typical f-body.

And obviously you are also among the ignorant with respect to "cage" and "roll bar". A "cage" simply means a "halo" and "dwon bars". This c an be done...and routinely is done with 6 attachment points. They just so happen to be the same attachment points you use with a 6-point "roll bar". There is nothing anywahere that state a "roll cage" has 10-point. A "cage" just means the driver is fully surrounded...hence CAGE!

This picture is ALL that is required to prove my point:

The picture clearly show 7.50 and slower. It clearly has 6 attachment points. This is all that is required!

I know I am right on this!