speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Yes you can.

Critt3r

iTrader: (1)

Moral of the story, it is not worth it. Get power somewhere else.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

explain? the biggest problem with lt1 is the intake plnum volume...if you have a big t/b to help refil the intake it will help...i dont see why a ported intake would hurt....only way i see it might is that the ports dont match the ehads causing turbulance

im just wondering why STOCK INTERNAL ls1 guys are putting on FAST 90mm intakes and gaining power then?

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

We've been telling you it wouldn't help on a bolt-on car but you didn't want to listen.

As for this guy losing power on his heads/cam motor, how about the other guy that gained 8 rwhp? Of course that doesn't really matter since you're only talking about bolt on mods, but it's there to see.

NightTrain66

iTrader: (7)

only way to KNOW if it gained or lost HP will be going back to the SAME dyno and with that being the ONLY change. Speed Demon dynoed on 2 different dynoes before and after so the comparison is not really a good one. He said the car did feel like it pulled better but was confused by the HP loss from the 2 different dynoes. Going back to the same dyno would have been a better comparison.

Regardless, a ported intake (even correctly ported) will help VERY little on a stock heads and cam set up. I would not spend the time sewapping it out for the minor gains, even if I had a ported intake laying at my feet. That time and labor (and $$$ for the intake porting) could be spent elsewhere and more gains could be had.

Lloyd

Out1aw

iTrader: (1)

Exactly. Also have to figure in temperatures (both external and of the vehicle), humidity, etc. Even tire pressure comes into effect on a dyno if you're looking at only 9rwhp. And honestly, 9hp is not something I personally would spend that kind of money on.

flame

iTrader: (13)

I did a before and after dyno on my LE2 setup. I had a home gasket matched intake and swapped on an LE ported and didn't gain anything. Had my intake been stock it may have helped. I also then went to the track and ran the exact same ET and MPH as before the intake.

slick1851

What? NO ONE IS POSTING ANY HARD FACTS AT ALL


I dont care what Joe Shmo says on the internet


You get two way answers, some say its hurts some say it helps you say its not worth it etc


HARD FACTS not ideas or theorys

I already know were you cannot port the manifold, im looking to know what the gains are if there any in the right places



FYI


5.0 guys gain power from a ported manifold and theres a JUNK, DSM guys gain power from a extrude honed manifold, Honda guys gain power also

So why is the LT1 so different? Im looking for 1st hand knowledge

slick1851

THANK YOU!

355z28

iTrader: (8)

well since no one can come up with the info you would like, why dont you do it, go pay for a pull and then go home and swap intakes and take it back a couple hours later and to another pull. Find out...first hand.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

I actually dyno'd twice after the ported intake, both times were lower than the stock intake. That also explains why I didn't gain any mph at the track too.

NightTrain66

iTrader: (7)

Speed Demon, you also mentioned some valve float or breaking up at high RPM also so not sure if that played into anytrhing or not. It is just hard to compare unless the car is running right.

Most notice a pull up top[ from a ported intake and one customer di the "back to back" dyno comparison on his vette and gained 20 RWHP and 2 MPH at the track with a ported intake and 58 MM TB swap. This was on a LE2 heads and 224 duration cam set up comparable to yours. You figure half or maybe more was from the TB and the rest from the intake.

Lloyd

AR15 guy

iTrader: (1)

Because they are restrictive long runner intake manifolds like a 5.0 or something. Go ahead....port your intake and see for yourself noone is stopping you. Lloyd knows his ****...if you won't listen to him you won't listen to anyone so all these posts are useless. If your going to ask for advice at least consider it once its given.

slick1851

Who wont listen? You mean im trying to looking somthing up?


Im listening and taking it in, im not some newb

Sorry if I dont belive **** thats on the internet, and all the E racers


So sue me for asking REAL qeustions

Not wich cam will make my car sound cool

slick1851

Did I not also thank him for giving out real info? What have you showed me? Or what do you even know to bring it up like im being close minded?


I dont fallow the Sheep!

slick1851

But was there tunning going on with the back to back dynos?


Or was it a set tune, and intake swap?

I could see them switching manifolds, and throttle bodies and then tuning the car once again...So there could be a gain for tuning the throttle body and the intake manifold


Just wondering?

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

The best thing I can see for a stock manifold would be to gain just a bit more intake plenum volume and a 52mm TB. To top it off and really take advantage add any sort of headers. Since it's a stock motor, the intake flows quite well for the setup, and has headroom. Obviously there is a few things that can be done to help this, like any car out there. This isn't exactly related, but when I ported out my upper TPI plenum (Which is basically like the main area on our LT1), I noticed a bit (note: bit) more power just from having more air to suck around and less turbulence. Our heads also flow nicely for stock setup, but our exhaust manifolds, which much better than TBI/TPI ones, still are a bit restrictive. So that's where the headers come in. Most people here despise Shorties, and say no less than Midlengths and recommend Full Length. Me, since I plan to keep my motor stock, except a FEW bolt ons, I'd be happy with Shorties or Mid Length.

The best analogy I can come up with for you, is thing of your motor as your body's respiratory system. In and out through the nose does just fine, but when you need more air, you open your mouth. Well, doing an intake job is like breathing in through the mouth, and out through the nose. Lots of restriction happens and you can't evacuate the air as fast as you can take it in. Add in a new form of exhaust and it's like breathing in and out through your mouth, it's nice a smooth and quick. But if you don't have a 52mm+ TB, it'd be like breathing in through a straw

The GuRus here can contest to if my analogy is a fair one or not, but from my time here, that's pretty much what I've learned. While I don't have any exhaust, I do plan to put on my bigger TB soon, just to help with throttle response if anything.

As for tuning, whatever you do (save for just a little intake port job), you'll want to have your car tuned for all the stuff you just got. If you have a 94+ A4, and get a bigger throttle body, you'll NEED to get a tune for it, so hold off installing it if you plan to get other stuff and have it all tuned at once. Mail-orders are nice, off-the-shell are a big no-no (JET, Hypertech), and Dyno Tunes are the best since they hook right up to all your sensors and read how everything is working, and then tune from there for best results. I think usually $100 more than a mail-order, but always worth it. Don't let mail-orders scare you, we have a great bunch of people around who have been around a long time, and really know their stuff. You just tell them all your specs and they can do quite a bang up job on a tune. Again, don't get a handheld tuner or a chip (if you have 92/93 or just any other car). The only thing I can see the handheld being good for is modifying shift points/firmness/speedo calibration w/o needing a computer and fairly expensive software.

Sorry for the fairly long post. As always people, correct anything that I'm wrong about. Just makes me a more knowledge-correct person

slick1851

Your thinking about it, and giving ideas etc nothing wrong with that if there right or wrong at least your trying and learning

NightTrain66

iTrader: (7)

slick, the intake/TB swap was done with no extra tuning. Just swap and go.

Best way to get an idea about what intakes are restrictions on each engine will be to measure the restrictioin points in the intake manifold and compare it to the restriction areas in the heads.

The 5.0 ford intake is MUCH smaller than the min cross section of the intake port on the heads. This is why a ported 5.0 intake will help ANY 5.0 from bone stock to a heads/cam set up.

The LT1 intake at its restrictive point (minimum cross section) is actually larger than the unported LT1 cylinder head at the pushrod pinch. No reason to make the intake larger until the heads are ported and making the intake manifold smaller than the heads restrictive point.

Once the heads are ported, you can actually see some gain from the intake portwork if everything else is moving enough air (CAI, 58 MM TB, 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 headers, 3" true duals, etc, cam with enough overlap and duration to need the flow, spinning enough RPM, etc).

If using a stock TB, small or emissions type cam with no overlap, 1 5/8 headers thru cats and a cat back exhaust, you are never gonna make the intake be the restriction due to these other "high velocity" products.

Even on the right set up with all the good mods making 400 RWHP, you will see NOTHING below 3000 RPM since the stock intake can still feed the set up. You will slowly start seeing HP gains 5 HP by 4500 RPM, 8-10 HP at 5500-6000 RPM and 10-12 HP above 6200 RPM.

As you can see, the only way the ported intake will help you at the track is IF you have all the free flowing parts, the right head and cam set up to see the 10-12 HP gain AND are keeping the engine in the 6000-6500 RPM range to actually see the benefits.

I would chose an electric water pump over a ported intake for most people since the gains are more of a guarantee on any set up with any heads, cam, exhaust, etc and evryone will see some gains at the track with an electric water pump.

Lloyd

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

^Listen to this guy or try it yourself and then report back to us.