help a newb build a motor plz
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on my dyno I made power upto 7200 then it flatlined and it fell off a bit to 7400.
I do plan to get a dfi but money is a bit of an issue right now and I am trying to set it up to spray it in the spring
Last edited by Davey J; Jan 5, 2008 at 11:46 AM.
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From: Upstate NY
I must have understated the talent level of my engine builder, he has been putting cars into the nines consistently since the seventies. He also holds U.S. Patents on oiling systems for amc engines. He's pretty good.
from your first post:
I found a very knowlegable local engine builder who did good work for some of my friends in the past. I asked him if he would build a motor for me, and he said he would be happy to..... Problem is, he doesnt want to help me pick and choose parts. I can understand that cause he's a busy guy and has work of his own.
from your first post:
I found a very knowlegable local engine builder who did good work for some of my friends in the past. I asked him if he would build a motor for me, and he said he would be happy to..... Problem is, he doesnt want to help me pick and choose parts. I can understand that cause he's a busy guy and has work of his own.
I don't understand an engine "builder" who doesn't want to have a say in parts selection for an engine that will be very high-end if you want 600 fwhp (500 rw). If it doesn't perform or worse yet fails because of parts choice, what does he say his responsibility is? Isn't his credibility on the line? You will be telling everyone who built your engine, right?
I hope you outlined your goals for this engine to him when you talked. How much did he quote for machining and assembling your parts?
Some folks here are trying to keep you from making a big mistake.
Again, if want a nice engine you can ENJOY and no constantly having to fawk with (like mine) At my power level it is BRAIN DAMAGE...I mean my car has VERY good street manners....BUT It is a high maintenance engine. ANY smallblock with 23* heads making 550 HP+ at the flywheel on pump gas IS gonna be work to keep it in shape. Just regular no problems maintenance is high, oil changes every 2000 miles($40), tires that it DESTROYS($400), fuel that it DRINKS(GEEZ!), regular trans services at 5000 miles($60).
Again, build a 383 with an LE3 or Ai 200cc package on top and enjoy the car.
Again, build a 383 with an LE3 or Ai 200cc package on top and enjoy the car.
Best advice here. Read and consider carefully.
The factory ecm only goes to 7100 rpm, my solid roller peaks at 6600 rpm. I shift at 6700 and the opti has done fine, BUT and LTCC is the way to go.
96CAPRICEMGR
Abare is a full blown RACECAR on fuel
The others I am not sure of, but would tend to be pretty radical.
Nonetheless, what this guy wants to do is HARD, make no mistake.
David
96CAPRICEMGR
Abare is a full blown RACECAR on fuel
The others I am not sure of, but would tend to be pretty radical.
Nonetheless, what this guy wants to do is HARD, make no mistake.
David
Mike's car is a full interior streetable car, definetely dialed in to race though high 1.3s with both tires over a foot in the air is proof of that, amazing site too see an Impala do that.
Alek's car is a street car http://camaroz28.com/forums/showthre...hlight=480rwhp , M6 certainly contributes to the high dyno. You are the second reply to the topic . Kept breaking drivetrain parts last I heard but 128mph is pretty good for all these too small parts people think have to be replaced to go fast
These are all little 2.00/1.56 valves, 200cc ports, lightly worked stock intakes.
I have said it before and will again I think people are way too quick to jump to comparatively exotic setup, converting gen 1 heads and intakes.
The results are right there, well proven and documented, they are just inconvinient to those with other ideas about how to reach a goal and therefore ignored.
for the record I shift at 7200 with the stock computer and I bounced off the 7600 revlimiter I put in there once by accident on a misshift.With mine anyway it keeps the 7000 rpm fuel tables when you are over 7000 rpm
on my dyno I made power upto 7200 then it flatlined and it fell off a bit to 7400.
I do plan to get a dfi but money is a bit of an issue right now and I am trying to set it up to spray it in the spring
on my dyno I made power upto 7200 then it flatlined and it fell off a bit to 7400.
I do plan to get a dfi but money is a bit of an issue right now and I am trying to set it up to spray it in the spring
IMHO I think the majority of folks who want to throw a number out there have little to no comprehension of what that number equates to in a vehicle. For a great example I would say look at the cost differences and the work it takes to shave 3 seconds off the stock times of 14.0 to 11.xx seconds. Now shave another three off that to get into the eights. I am not sure how many people have done that by now, but it is not many, and the costs grow exponentially.
To the OP :Simply stated I wouldn't go with Chinese metal for a high end build! They are what they are and they are inferior. Good for many but not all and especially not in that range. Again I would advise talking with one of the guys that have a proven setup with that kind of horespower, ask what they would have done differently, what it takes to maintain etc. My bet is that a true 400 rwhp car for several thousands less would suit you fine, way more than what is needed on the street, and competitive at the track. Just my .02.
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I had a talk with my engine builder yesterday, he told me he could deliver the number I wanted. But he stated it my not be the right engine for my application. He says a blown motor would better suit my purpose. So I need to take a step back and figure out what I want to do, then go from there. Thanks for all replies, I will probably need your help again in the future...-Chris
I had a talk with my engine builder yesterday, he told me he could deliver the number I wanted. But he stated it my not be the right engine for my application. He says a blown motor would better suit my purpose. So I need to take a step back and figure out what I want to do, then go from there. Thanks for all replies, I will probably need your help again in the future...-Chris
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WTF does that mean? Its been stated on this post that an engine like that needs a lot of maintinence even when it is running properly. I want something lower.maintinence. 'turn key' the bottom line is I have some decisions to make. Everyone here knows that when your learning to build an engine , for every answer there are two more questions.
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WTF does that mean? Its been stated on this post that an engine like that needs a lot of maintinence even when it is running properly. I want something lower.maintinence. 'turn key' the bottom line is I have some decisions to make. Everyone here knows that when your learning to build an engine , for every answer there are two more questions
If I cant say nothin nice I wont say anything at all
Gen 1 guys have screwed up a lot of LT1s, not uncommon for them to LOWER compression in the course of a performance build, the dismiss the stock heads way too fast, cams they make a trainwreck out of either way too low a lift or way too wide LSA because there is a myth that the computer can't handle a proper LSA.
They should be capable of building the shortblock, it is not that different, many will want to shoot WAY too low on the compression though, either need to educate them or tell them the chamber is bigger than it is and let someone else do the heads and bolt them on yourself.
When I first became interested in cars in the mid 90s all the magazines said 180-190 cranking psi was the max on pump gas, the b-body LT1 cranks 200 and runs happily on 87 octane, a heads/cam motor with upped compression can crank 230psi and still be fine on pump gas. The LT1 stretches a lot of the old rules despite being very similar to the gen 1 motors.
They should be capable of building the shortblock, it is not that different, many will want to shoot WAY too low on the compression though, either need to educate them or tell them the chamber is bigger than it is and let someone else do the heads and bolt them on yourself.
When I first became interested in cars in the mid 90s all the magazines said 180-190 cranking psi was the max on pump gas, the b-body LT1 cranks 200 and runs happily on 87 octane, a heads/cam motor with upped compression can crank 230psi and still be fine on pump gas. The LT1 stretches a lot of the old rules despite being very similar to the gen 1 motors.
The reason they talked cranking compression was it was more closely related too dynamic compression than static compression is.
These days I see the car magazines as more comedy than infomation.
These days I see the car magazines as more comedy than infomation.
Your right most things i read in mags i write off.From what i have learned One of the first things to consider is quench along with octane of fuel.After that i would consider dynamic and static ratio's.As far as cranking compression its a balance becuase given the same engine a cam with lower cranking compression will most likley lose that in the higher rpm's on the flip side a lower cranking compression cam will most likley gain more in the higher rpm's.Like i said its a balance and everthing should be considered.
yup (notice my past tense "did" word) 