I'm seeing an awful lot of guessing. Pyro, if you are unfamiliar with LT motors, I submit you have spent a tremendous amount of time and energy to no point. Diagnosis of the original issues would have been best accomplished with a real time scan, using a tool like the Datamaster TTS, while operating the car, either on the street or on a dyno. A competent tuner could pull the tune and see if that was the issue, and whether the car was tuned to run SD or not. A wideband O2 could provide accurate data.

And pulling a motor rather than simply replacing exhaust gaskets KNOWN to be blown makes no sense at all.

IF in fact you are truly 'trying to get the car running'... I suggest you close your mouth and open your ears, because I PROMISE the combined knowledge you are blowing off in this thread alone, let alone the folks who read this and passed on trying to help because of your attitude, is far greater than the knowledge you believe you have, at least when it comes to LT1s.

 

well we have tried that. actaully we did one better and had a guy that knows the pcm tuning software and what all of it is, come to hays and hook his computer up and see what the car is doing. he said the motor seems to be working like it should but there are still many issues. also on the exhaust gasket side. we have our reasoning. i got told to check and see if it jumped time. well i figured **** it and all since the motor leaks outa the front cover i will check it all right away. and all the little things added up to where i just looked as if the pull and replace would be quiker. takes about 4 hours to do exhaust gaskets while the motor is in the car. well it takes me 45 to drop the complete kmember with motor and trans. and about 1.5 hrs to install it. so there you have about 2.25 hours. and then you have much much more room to work on everything. i know what you are saying. we are just trying to play a guessing game hoping we find the problem while the right thing to do is gather symptoms and diagnose it. but like i said we have had numberous people check it and they dont know either. i admit i am not the sharpest pencil in the box with these cars but i do know some **** about them. i bet any money you could own this car and have the same problems and you would check and check ****. still wouldnt find the problem. thats why we tore it all the way down. as the saying goes. sometimes it is just easier to start over and bypass all the ignorance and half assing people have done in the past on it. so thats what we did. the guy that built the car obviously just wanted it to run and sell. and that he did. AND i am in fact opening my ears but there are the people that reply in this thread trying to bypass the fact of this and trying to say this car wouldnt run that fast even if it were right. and i do like the post where the guy said even if were a 15 second car and now it does 17s. there is something wrong. i will open my ears and all but i just dont want any bullshit. people just list **** they think is wrong and tell me what to look for and all. i have no problem. becuase like i said there is much more knowledge others know than i do. and that knowledge combined will make Alot

 

Word. I follow the drop it reasoning, except for the issue of having to put it back in to see if it's solved!

I'm considering dropping my 94's engine to find a knock, probably due to a lifter, rather than pulling the intake under the cowl. if it turns out to have wiped a cam lobe, it'll be far easier to pull the cam while it's out.

While it's out: look CLOSELY for burns on the plug wires, the computer will NOT throw a code for misfire on OBD1 cars even if one plug is shorting completely. Read ALL the plugs, and keep track of which hole they came from. (Bad misfire MIGHT not be felt, it'll throw the A/F on all the other cylinders off, and cost buttloads of power.) If you do pull it apart, it's tempting to say throw rings and bearings in... but at the least pull the intake, check all lifters, and look CLOSELY at the cam lobes. BRIGHT light, and all the way around. Smell the oil; if it's way rich, the oil will stink, and it may well have washed down the rings.

 

also. we pulled the pan becuase the timing cover. noticed a little scuffing on the cam. i asked the owner what to do and he said with the shortage of money he has he wants to wait and get a new motor built and drop it in. the timing is good. crank looks good. cylinders have a little scarring and the cam like i said. other wise it should run still like it used to. i dont think a instant power loss would be from a cam just hanging out over night. you know what i am getting at. also i forgot to add. here is the story of the car. as i know when my 1st friend got it

motor was a 383 with 30k miles on it in a 94 camaro Z28 with 124k on the chassis

-1.6 RR
-3.75 stroke crank forged
-3.030 bore with forged pistons
-I beam forged rods
-stock ported heads
-CC306 cam
-700R4 with factory torque convertor
-factory driveline
-factory 10bolt
---**transmission went out and was in and out of the shop 6 times due to the transmission ******* up*** finally they got it on the 6th trans. still same tq convertor and they said it wasnt flushed or anything
------------------------------
when my other friend bought it
-------------------------------
same setup and still ran 11.30s for a month

the car sat for a week or so. came back to take it out and ran good still. parked it and tried it the next day and it was gutless

now runs HIGH 13s to low 14s

reson being i thought possible torque convertor is the paint it bubbled and the fact it went through that many transmissions there has to be **** in it

now we have. NEW

-coil
-FPR
-MAF
-MAP
-TEMP sensors
-pan gasket
-timing cover gasket
-new oil ((NEEDED IT))
-new wires
-new plugs
-completely sealed exhaust
-new torque convertor
-new rearend


NEVER HAVE REPLACED OPTI. but doesnt throw codes. is there any way to check the opti

anythingelse i forgot i will add later. when the car is back together i will try to put a datamaster file on the net for anyone wanting to look at it.

 

anyone

 

well got the car back together. when the snow clears i will have some info up on the results

 

You forgot to add a few things..

All cylinders DO have spark, all spark plugs have been replaced and still look fine.
When you unplug #1 and #6 fuel injectors to test for a dead cylinder, the running of the engine DOES NOT CHANGE AT ALL. Making me believe that 1 and 6 are not firing. We tested the wiring with a noid light, and it was flashing. Injectors were replaced and nothing changed. Tested the plug wires for spark, they do spark.

Tested unplugging them again to check for dead cylinders, and sure enough they are dead. Unplugging #1 and #6 injectors does not effect how the engine runs, AT ALL. Unplugging any other injector and it surges and wants to die at idle.

 

PYRO - I know you said that you fixed the header leaks but did you ever check to see if the rest of the exhaust system flowed fine. (Uncap it) I know that was a previous suggestion but like many of those suggestions, you never said if you did it or not.

FlashLCD33 - What are the plugs gapped @? And are you sure that the plugs are not internally fucked up. It could look fine and still not function properly. And when you say fine, whats that meen? If the cyl is not firing, surely there is some indication of something, fuel, oil, coolant, burning clean, SOMETHING. And is the fuel getting into the cyl? Did you check the flow of the inj?

 

no. have no way to check flow of injector. the plugs are brand new. gapped at .50 there is still a little xhaust leak. but its like i said. nothing major. where the header splits apart on mids for the steering shaft. it has a minor leak there. nothing extreme. and by the injector what flash is talking about. it is definately getting a pulse signal from the pcm but if you were to unplug the injector then it doesnt hurt the rpm of the car. this thing runs the same with the thing setup right and will run the same if you ran it with the 2 injectors unplugged.

 

We are gonna tear down the engine and what ever is salvageable we are gonna keep and what ever is fucked up we are gonna replace. and also getting rid of that 700r4 and getting a 4l60e and then we will tell you guys if it was that. and then if it is running really good we are gonna get a new tune for it.

 

UPDATE***. car does a burnout now. finally. feels like it has ***** but the trans is fucked up. the convertor did help off the line.