Breaking Points on an lt1/m6 z28
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Breaking Points on an lt1/m6 z28 Hello everyone, I'm in the process of modifying the engine of my 6-speed '94 z28 over the winter, and I have some questions about the reliability of the stock parts on the rest of the car. What is a good estimate for the horsepower or torque at which the would the rear end, transmission, or internals (or other parts) start to fail?
Thanks
Thanks
The Borg Warner T-56's are pretty brutal when it comes to harnessing power. I can't rightly put a figure on them, but they can handle torque. I've abused the **** out of mine at the track cutting 1.70 60' times. It has over 100K miles on it and feels just as it did when I drove it off the lot.
HOWEVER
The 10-bolt sucks ***. Cars with stock torque ratings have been known to shatter teeth off of ring/pinion gears and destroy carriers.
If you're going to invest in your drivetrain the best thing to do is go with a stout aftermarket rear like a 12-bolt or 9" depending on what you're going to use the car for. If it's just a street car w/ no track use in mind then stick w/ the 10-bolt. If traction is your thing then you'll want a better diff.
If you don't want to spend a lot of money on a new diff then you can at least improve upon the 12-bolt by getting an Auburn carrier (if you don't have one already) and an aluminum cover w/ a gridle. Not guaranteed that'll last, but it's better than bone stock.
Again.. depending on what the car is going to be used for... if you're going to the track then it'd be a smart idea to invest in a good torque arm. The stamped steal one is a popular pile of crap that can crack at the bolt holes and go unnoticed until it finally snaps jeapordizing your gears. Aftermarket LCA's w/ relocation brackets for the LCA's will give a much better angle to help transfer energy into the chassis instead of overstressing the torque arm.
Costs money, but those have been some of the tried and true ways to improve upon the drivetrain.
I've typed all that and forgot to ask.. what exactly are you going to be doing to the engine? A 396?
HOWEVER
The 10-bolt sucks ***. Cars with stock torque ratings have been known to shatter teeth off of ring/pinion gears and destroy carriers.
If you're going to invest in your drivetrain the best thing to do is go with a stout aftermarket rear like a 12-bolt or 9" depending on what you're going to use the car for. If it's just a street car w/ no track use in mind then stick w/ the 10-bolt. If traction is your thing then you'll want a better diff.
If you don't want to spend a lot of money on a new diff then you can at least improve upon the 12-bolt by getting an Auburn carrier (if you don't have one already) and an aluminum cover w/ a gridle. Not guaranteed that'll last, but it's better than bone stock.
Again.. depending on what the car is going to be used for... if you're going to the track then it'd be a smart idea to invest in a good torque arm. The stamped steal one is a popular pile of crap that can crack at the bolt holes and go unnoticed until it finally snaps jeapordizing your gears. Aftermarket LCA's w/ relocation brackets for the LCA's will give a much better angle to help transfer energy into the chassis instead of overstressing the torque arm.
Costs money, but those have been some of the tried and true ways to improve upon the drivetrain.
I've typed all that and forgot to ask.. what exactly are you going to be doing to the engine? A 396?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
The Borg Warner T-56's are pretty brutal when it comes to harnessing power. I can't rightly put a figure on them, but they can handle torque. I've abused the **** out of mine at the track cutting 1.70 60' times. It has over 100K miles on it and feels just as it did when I drove it off the lot.
HOWEVER
The 10-bolt sucks ***. Cars with stock torque ratings have been known to shatter teeth off of ring/pinion gears and destroy carriers.
If you're going to invest in your drivetrain the best thing to do is go with a stout aftermarket rear like a 12-bolt or 9" depending on what you're going to use the car for. If it's just a street car w/ no track use in mind then stick w/ the 10-bolt. If traction is your thing then you'll want a better diff.
If you don't want to spend a lot of money on a new diff then you can at least improve upon the 12-bolt by getting an Auburn carrier (if you don't have one already) and an aluminum cover w/ a gridle. Not guaranteed that'll last, but it's better than bone stock.
Again.. depending on what the car is going to be used for... if you're going to the track then it'd be a smart idea to invest in a good torque arm. The stamped steal one is a popular pile of crap that can crack at the bolt holes and go unnoticed until it finally snaps jeapordizing your gears. Aftermarket LCA's w/ relocation brackets for the LCA's will give a much better angle to help transfer energy into the chassis instead of overstressing the torque arm.
Costs money, but those have been some of the tried and true ways to improve upon the drivetrain.
I've typed all that and forgot to ask.. what exactly are you going to be doing to the engine? A 396?
HOWEVER
The 10-bolt sucks ***. Cars with stock torque ratings have been known to shatter teeth off of ring/pinion gears and destroy carriers.
If you're going to invest in your drivetrain the best thing to do is go with a stout aftermarket rear like a 12-bolt or 9" depending on what you're going to use the car for. If it's just a street car w/ no track use in mind then stick w/ the 10-bolt. If traction is your thing then you'll want a better diff.
If you don't want to spend a lot of money on a new diff then you can at least improve upon the 12-bolt by getting an Auburn carrier (if you don't have one already) and an aluminum cover w/ a gridle. Not guaranteed that'll last, but it's better than bone stock.
Again.. depending on what the car is going to be used for... if you're going to the track then it'd be a smart idea to invest in a good torque arm. The stamped steal one is a popular pile of crap that can crack at the bolt holes and go unnoticed until it finally snaps jeapordizing your gears. Aftermarket LCA's w/ relocation brackets for the LCA's will give a much better angle to help transfer energy into the chassis instead of overstressing the torque arm.
Costs money, but those have been some of the tried and true ways to improve upon the drivetrain.
I've typed all that and forgot to ask.. what exactly are you going to be doing to the engine? A 396?
Advertised Duration 282/ 287
Duration at .050 212 /226
Gross Lift .483/.520
Lobe Separation 112
Is the lift on your cam with a 1.5 rocker or a 1.6 rocker? Odd numbers for a cam in a 396 with ported heads. Just doesn't seem like a setup that will make alot of power. When you get it built put up some dyno numbers.
Last edited by SpeedDensityZ; Feb 19, 2008 at 10:42 AM.
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I might as well throw a picture of her up, proud owner as I am.
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