I replaced the motor mounts anyway, so while I had them off, I slid the Kooks
up from underneath. No problems. As far as lifting the engine for the
emissions stuff, I dont think so. My tranny is out, so I'm having an easier go
at the header installation.

Except for now. Sheesh! The #2 bolt for cylinder #1 - I'm having to run to the
hardware store because the socket-head bolt wont work because the #1 pipe
makes a quick bend to the rear, not allowing an allen wrench to go one.

Also, I cant use the Kooks-supplied 12-point bolt because a closed-end wrench
cant get around the bolt head (too close to the pipe) and of course, you can't
use an open-end on a 12-point. So, it's off to the hardware store AGAIN to find
a standard stainless hex-head 3/8-16 3/4" bolt. It's gonna look a bit goofy with
one hex head bolt and the rest socket-head.

Do the Kooks folks even TRY to use their supplied hardware with their headers?
NOT. Also, I question their "quality control" . . . I had to grind the center portion
of the driver's side header flange, because when I put a straight-edge on the
flange, it had a bit of a "hump" in the center, meaning the outer ends of the
flange would NOT have mated flat against the gasket/head.

 

I bought a couple of 12 point wrenches at Sears and ground the box end down on one of them. It worked great where the regular box end wouldn't fit between the bolt head and primary. If you bought the Breslin bolts, those are also 12 point heads.

Sounds like you're having some issues I didn't experience. That kind of sucks considering the price of the headers. Mine were perfect. If not, I would have probably been a little upset.

 

lots of info, thanks cald.

Im going to go with pacesetters, and the y-pipe. kooks is a lot of money for me.

 

I'm not familiar with your situation, but if you can I would wait until a price comes out on those other stainless headers. If you need something quickly, perhaps they aren't a good option.

 

yeah, i sent him an email. if it doesnt work out, ill go with pacesetter. it looks like he is only doing race style headers (no emissions), and i want emissions :\

 

Bummer. I should have paid more attention to your first post. But if you don't absolutely have to have emissions, I would consider them.

 

we will see. I ordered Percy's seal-4-good header gaskets

 

I used Percy's gaskets. My car is still on jackstands, but I don't think I have any leaks. We will see how they hold up.

 

"The ones we are making are going to be race versions with no emissions. Sorry"

 

The thought crossed my mind, but I never seriously considered grinding one of the
bits. But after reading this post, I decided to take one of the 5/16x1/4 "screwdriver"
bits (the 5/16" end fits into the socket-head bolt) and the 1/4" end, of course, fits
into a magnetic screwdriver or 1/4 mini-ratchet/etc.

This allowed me to use the 3/4" long stainless socket-head bolt (versus having to
use a hex-head bolt) . . . and to fit the modified screwdriver bit into the bolt and
use a open-end wrench to tighten it up. It's a *much* cleaner look now that I've
got *all* six socket-head bolts.

 

Here's a couple of photos: one is of the "problem" bolt and the other is of a
socket-head bolt, using a screwdriver bit and mini-ratchet to tighten down:

http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.cay/Z28

 

So, I thought about the headers, and I decided that I will probably just delete my EGR and AIR systems... and go with race headers...

How much will i gain if i go with race headers as opposed to emissions style headers?

 

Not really a gain thor, its mainly for cleaning up the engine bay!

 

I would probably gain more though if i went with the LPP stepped headers vs. the pacesetter emissions though... ha

 

also, what about these bolts?

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=740

are they REALLY that expensive? wowow

 

Regardless of whether you'll see any additional gains from the stepped headers, you'll be buying headers that will last the life of the car and they won't look like rusted *** after six months. That alone is well worth the price differential, whatever it might be, imo.

If you're looking for a locking header bolt, I would suggest the stainless steel Percy's Split Lock, which used to be the Breslin Split Lock. They'll probably cost more than the Stage 8's, but I think they're a far superior design. If Stage 8's were the only locking header bolt on the market, I would have gone with regular stainless ARP's instead. Lots of people think the Stage 8's are pain in the butt to install. Also, I would use a 1" bolt.

 

had those bolts on my ls1 let me tell you i never had a problem with my headers coming loose...

 

Put in some ARH headers and be done with it. They are stainless, simple to install and have by far the nicest Y-pipe. They are SWEET!

 

Does ARH make an LT1 header? I don't believe they do.