stumped
stumped well from all my "stalling" topics, i moved onto one of the bigger problems the fuel pump. i replaced it with a GMS 255 walbro and it still stalls on idle.
today when test driving, i started the car multiple times, and it ran great. drove around the block 2 times and came back to the driveway and bam it cut out. cranked back up and SES/fans came on it wouldnt do it again until i restarted it and it took a little effort to restart (need to use the gas pedal). it only happens once the engine gets hot, cold starts are great and itll idle as long as i want it until it gets to around 3/4 temp.
the car is getting spark, its getting fuel, its getting air, but i dont know what the hell is going on. ive replaced almost everything that could cause an idle stall and hard starting when hot.
i cant get access to an OBD1 scanner anymore. the only scanner that was obd1 i used was an innova obd1&2 that wouldnt connect to the PCM unless i declared the car a truck.
when painting my valve covers, i noticed my pushrods were very easy to spin, and the rocker arms were all aligned none were lower or higher than the other which is wierd as hell.
my o2 sensors have alot of carbon on them, thats my next move. or the speed sensor. i dont know of the PCM could be bad, or one of the ABS sensor wires for the front passenger side wheel was a little burned from the LT header.
today when test driving, i started the car multiple times, and it ran great. drove around the block 2 times and came back to the driveway and bam it cut out. cranked back up and SES/fans came on it wouldnt do it again until i restarted it and it took a little effort to restart (need to use the gas pedal). it only happens once the engine gets hot, cold starts are great and itll idle as long as i want it until it gets to around 3/4 temp.
the car is getting spark, its getting fuel, its getting air, but i dont know what the hell is going on. ive replaced almost everything that could cause an idle stall and hard starting when hot.
i cant get access to an OBD1 scanner anymore. the only scanner that was obd1 i used was an innova obd1&2 that wouldnt connect to the PCM unless i declared the car a truck.
when painting my valve covers, i noticed my pushrods were very easy to spin, and the rocker arms were all aligned none were lower or higher than the other which is wierd as hell.
my o2 sensors have alot of carbon on them, thats my next move. or the speed sensor. i dont know of the PCM could be bad, or one of the ABS sensor wires for the front passenger side wheel was a little burned from the LT header.
Last edited by Revelation Z28; Mar 9, 2008 at 10:39 PM.
ever change a fuel pressure regulator? When it gets hot, shut it down and pull the vac line off of the regulator and see if there is a strong fuel odor if not fuel coming from the regulator. From what you're explaining, it seems to be your likly cause.
i had a napa one in there before and that lasted me 2 years. then its diaphram let go. so you guys think the new FPR is causing it? i can recall this problem starting when the old one was still in there leaking.
well thats why i put in the OP that the scanner i was using was never able to connect to the PCM even though the DLC had power.
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opti is 8000 miles old, coil is new and ICM is new.
nope no laptop sadly.
oh i forgot to put in that when its hard to start when hot that while cranking itll smell like something is burning. i think oil. and my charcoal canister is bad maybe causing a vacuum leak?
nope no laptop sadly.
oh i forgot to put in that when its hard to start when hot that while cranking itll smell like something is burning. i think oil. and my charcoal canister is bad maybe causing a vacuum leak?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 18
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY, Dalton GA, Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
Someone on camaroz28.com just experienced this and their fairly new Accel opti had apparently failed. They figured it out using a scanner. It was throwing one of the opti codes once the car warmed up.
here is the opti harness. terminal A's wire has bare wire showing from the opti connector 1-2mm up. some of the strands are broken. terminal A is also for Low Res pulse.
top wire:
top wire:
I couldn't agree more for live scanning it or otherwise you are throwing money at it in hopes that you have fixed the problem.
There is a small chance that it could actaully be the temp sensor. It will make the car run like it has a bad O2, but the only way to actually check that is with a scanner.
There is a small chance that it could actaully be the temp sensor. It will make the car run like it has a bad O2, but the only way to actually check that is with a scanner.
Seriously though, you have to know someone with a laptop, just borrow it and run freescan at least and see if you get anything. 
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
From: North Versailles, PA
Had the same stalling problem. It was from extending the o2 wires like Pacesetter said to do when installing the lt's. I got new o2's from a dealership and got o2 extentions. My car runs perfect and this was over a year ago. If you extended those wires check the connections for water or just loose wires.