Getting baseline numbers for my LT1
#1
Getting baseline numbers for my LT1
Let the fun and games begin. I bought a stock 1994 Z28 A4 (2.73 gears) to use as a nice build up project car. I made an appointment to have it baselined on a dynojet tomorrow morning at 10:00. I'll post up the results ASAP.
Based on my previous LT1's I'm thinking it'll be right around 235 rwhp, with the torque between 265 and 285. Once that's done I'll start collecting speed parts for it starting with basic bolt-ons.
I want to do dyno and/or track testing at each stage and I'll keep everyone posted on the results. I'll keep it moving along as fast as I can, but I only have so much money to spend each paycheck, so it might not go as quickly as I'd like, lol.
I also want to keep track of my performance with my G-Tech and compare it to my track and dyno numbers (the G-Tech dyno numbers are always very low).
I ran the following passes back to back on a flat, straight road. One pass going each direction.
Baseline Gtech numbers are as follows:
.........Pass #1......................Pass #2.......................Average
60'.....2.299..........................2.527...... ....................2.413
330'...6.088..........................6.257....... ...................6.173
1/8....9.222 @ 80.29..............9.321 @ 82.04..............9.272 @ 81.15
1000'.11.906.........................11.936....... .................11.921
1/4....14.176 @ 99.10.............14.136 @ 102.46..........14.156 @ 100.78
0-60..5.665...........................5.656......... ................5.661
Obviously these numbers could be off from what it might really run. I've found that the mph is usually high. I'll use it at the track when I go and compare to the my slip says.
I know that alot of you are well past the basic mods, but even so, this should be interesting and, if nothing else, fun.
Let me know what you think and give me any new ideas. I'll tell everyone what I'm getting before I do and if anyone has input one way or the other, let me know before I spend my money!
Based on my previous LT1's I'm thinking it'll be right around 235 rwhp, with the torque between 265 and 285. Once that's done I'll start collecting speed parts for it starting with basic bolt-ons.
I want to do dyno and/or track testing at each stage and I'll keep everyone posted on the results. I'll keep it moving along as fast as I can, but I only have so much money to spend each paycheck, so it might not go as quickly as I'd like, lol.
I also want to keep track of my performance with my G-Tech and compare it to my track and dyno numbers (the G-Tech dyno numbers are always very low).
I ran the following passes back to back on a flat, straight road. One pass going each direction.
Baseline Gtech numbers are as follows:
.........Pass #1......................Pass #2.......................Average
60'.....2.299..........................2.527...... ....................2.413
330'...6.088..........................6.257....... ...................6.173
1/8....9.222 @ 80.29..............9.321 @ 82.04..............9.272 @ 81.15
1000'.11.906.........................11.936....... .................11.921
1/4....14.176 @ 99.10.............14.136 @ 102.46..........14.156 @ 100.78
0-60..5.665...........................5.656......... ................5.661
Obviously these numbers could be off from what it might really run. I've found that the mph is usually high. I'll use it at the track when I go and compare to the my slip says.
I know that alot of you are well past the basic mods, but even so, this should be interesting and, if nothing else, fun.
Let me know what you think and give me any new ideas. I'll tell everyone what I'm getting before I do and if anyone has input one way or the other, let me know before I spend my money!
#3
Do all the free mods. Then set up yourself with all of the supporting mods for heads, cam, intake. If you want then, you could even stroke it. Sounds Like a fun project. Keep us posted. (also, get some 3.73's in that thing)
#4
I think my first mods will be a TB bypass, and LS1 driveshaft (my 2002 Z28 will be getting a beefy one). I'm not sure on the MAF screen mod, because I've seen mixed things about it. If anyone has hard facts before I risk ruining my MAF permanantly then let me know. After that I'll probably go with a cold air/cat-back setup and then gears will be next. I'm going to go with 3.42's because I had 3.73's on my 1994 A4 TA and with BBK shorties, Random Tech cat, and Flowmasters it would drone like crazy. This car will be staying a 100% comfortable driver so I can't have that.
Thanks for the input!
Thanks for the input!
#6
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I thought your dyno day was next week? I say go with the Thunder racing package for the Catback, Cold Air, and Foil. It appears to be the cheapest one since it's on a huge sale, and I checked around.
I thought those G-Tech trap speeds looked a bit high, but I guess we'll see come April or so.
I'm sure ScreaminRedZ will respond because he's done it before a few times on both LS1s and LT1s I believe.
I thought those G-Tech trap speeds looked a bit high, but I guess we'll see come April or so.
I'm sure ScreaminRedZ will respond because he's done it before a few times on both LS1s and LT1s I believe.
#7
G-Tech trap speeds are usually a bit high compared to the track. Some people say that it's because the track gives you an average of the last 60' where the G-Tech gives you the speed at the end of the 1/4 mile. I don;t really think this is true, because the G-Tech generally reads 3 or so mph higher that the track. I don't think the average LT1 gains 3 mph in the last 30 feet of the track. At Lebanon on a good day it'll probably trap 97-98mph.
Changing from a 2.73 to a 3.73 requires a 3.73 gearset for a 2 series carrier. You also need an install kit that has your bearings, gaskets, crush washer, etc. The parts usually run $400-$450. Install should only be done by somone who has experience or with the help of someone who has experience. Most reaonsable shops will probably charge $300 to $400 for the install depending. Also, you will need to change your tune to fix the speedo.
Changing from a 2.73 to a 3.73 requires a 3.73 gearset for a 2 series carrier. You also need an install kit that has your bearings, gaskets, crush washer, etc. The parts usually run $400-$450. Install should only be done by somone who has experience or with the help of someone who has experience. Most reaonsable shops will probably charge $300 to $400 for the install depending. Also, you will need to change your tune to fix the speedo.
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#8
Launching!
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So when i order 373's from slp for a 94 camaro is that for a series 2 carrier?
I am getting ready to order gears and like u said order the installation kit im just wanting to make sure im ordering gears for the right carrier
I am getting ready to order gears and like u said order the installation kit im just wanting to make sure im ordering gears for the right carrier
#11
Yeah, I live in CT so I go to Lebanon as much as possible. I try to get to Englishtown and Atco each once a year, but mostly Lebanon. Last year I had alot going on and couldn't make it up much, but I plan on tearing that place up this year
What's your best time with the IROC to date? Looks like a nice project you got there. LT1 3rd gens are bad ***!
What's your best time with the IROC to date? Looks like a nice project you got there. LT1 3rd gens are bad ***!
#14
Yeah, I've gotta say that 185 rwhp is absolutely not bad for a 305 through an automatic. The time is good also. When I had my 1987 GTA 350TPI I was only able to run a 15.2, so I think you're car runs pretty damn good. Should be a beast with the LT1 though!
#17
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Since we're playing with software and hardware, I'll play with the software side I thew in your car to Desktop Dyno's Drag software, almost same results! That's keeping with the assumption that the LT1 in the F-Bodies was advertised way lower than it really is, and giving it 300/340 for power/torque. And yes, the program factors in drive train loss and all those other goodies! (I can get a screen shot if anyone wants one, it's a nifty program!)
EDIT: lol I just re-ran it noticing the temps are for MY summer, and it said 14.156 for the 1/4. That's the exact same as your average. Then again, I don't know where you live and that has 600ft above sea level factored in, 65F and 70% humidity with a 5mph wind speed
EDIT: lol I just re-ran it noticing the temps are for MY summer, and it said 14.156 for the 1/4. That's the exact same as your average. Then again, I don't know where you live and that has 600ft above sea level factored in, 65F and 70% humidity with a 5mph wind speed
Last edited by Formula350; 03-12-2008 at 09:54 AM.
#18
^Thanks! The more ways we test it out the better! It'll show us what test methods work and which ones don't.
Well, I just got back from the dyno. It was on a dynojet. I was just getting a baseline, no changes.
First pull it made 238.5 RWHP at 5025 rpm and 285.7 rwtq at 3175 rpm uncorrected
Second pull I had them close the hood to since that's how it is driving aroundand it made 237.9 rwhp at 5025 rpm and 281.7 rwtq at 3975 rpm (torque was falling at the start) uncorrected.
I made on more pull with the hood open and it made the same as the first pull.
Lastly, I had them give me the SAE numbers and came up with 230.5 rwhp and 273.0 rwtq with the torque falling from the get go.
Overall it looks like it's right where it should be for a bone stock A4. Looks like there was a 16.2% drivetrain loss if it's making the 275 that it's rated.
Now I just have to get some track numbers and then the modding can begin. Some of the people I've talked to think I should start with a stall converter and drag radials. Any opinions?
Also, I'll try to get pics of the car and the graphs posted up.
Well, I just got back from the dyno. It was on a dynojet. I was just getting a baseline, no changes.
First pull it made 238.5 RWHP at 5025 rpm and 285.7 rwtq at 3175 rpm uncorrected
Second pull I had them close the hood to since that's how it is driving aroundand it made 237.9 rwhp at 5025 rpm and 281.7 rwtq at 3975 rpm (torque was falling at the start) uncorrected.
I made on more pull with the hood open and it made the same as the first pull.
Lastly, I had them give me the SAE numbers and came up with 230.5 rwhp and 273.0 rwtq with the torque falling from the get go.
Overall it looks like it's right where it should be for a bone stock A4. Looks like there was a 16.2% drivetrain loss if it's making the 275 that it's rated.
Now I just have to get some track numbers and then the modding can begin. Some of the people I've talked to think I should start with a stall converter and drag radials. Any opinions?
Also, I'll try to get pics of the car and the graphs posted up.
#20
Yeah, that's what I though. My plan so far is to do basic mods first, I just thought that if there was a justifiable reason to get the stall first then I'd consider it.
Just for the sake of comparison here are the stock dyno numbers for GM High Tech Performance's 2 LT1 project cars:
The Grape of Wrath: 230.1 rwhp at 5000 rpm and 264 rwtq at 4200 rpm
LT1 Formula: 224.7 rwhp and 261.8 rwtq
Just for the sake of comparison here are the stock dyno numbers for GM High Tech Performance's 2 LT1 project cars:
The Grape of Wrath: 230.1 rwhp at 5000 rpm and 264 rwtq at 4200 rpm
LT1 Formula: 224.7 rwhp and 261.8 rwtq