Help me get traction!!
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ok well i went to the track last night and i was really mad at my times. i couldnt hook for **** especially when boost kicked in. my 60's were a low of 2.3! i would go 13.7 and trap at 110 lol. i tried slippin the clutch easing into it all of that. ran 5 times all the same deal. i have nitto drag radials in the rear. lower control arms, some lowering springs im not sure maybe slp they were on the car when i bought them and a rear pan hard bar. i just bought the car and its ready for a big overhaul suspension wise. i have about 1500 to spend and its really a track/nice weekend day car. what do you recomend? im going to keep the stock rear with the 4.10's until that blows
im sorry but im still a newb at f bodys but can you tell me the basics in getting it to hook? i cant get sub frame connecters because of my sts piping running along the subframs. also what wheel offset/spacing do i need?
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
im sorry but im still a newb at f bodys but can you tell me the basics in getting it to hook? i cant get sub frame connecters because of my sts piping running along the subframs. also what wheel offset/spacing do i need?
![Engarde](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies3/engarde.gif)
#3
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lake Jackson TX, south of Houston
Posts: 480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It sounds like you need to launch harder as far as your short times. What are you droping the clutch at? If your slipping it, you are burning it and you may need a better clutch to hold the power, are you heating the tires up well enough. Play with the air press in them. I would start with that and leave the suspention unless you'r going to do the qa1's all around or some thing like that. Just make up your mind if is going to be a street car or track only car, with the qa1's you can have both, are the kyb's the adjustable one's if so start playing with them soft in the rear hard up front.
Last edited by socal; 03-12-2008 at 02:48 PM.
#5
On The Tree
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
do you have an adjustable Torque arm already? Ill assume you do, so you should check for correct pinion angle to help you out a bit, some people run as low as like -3* but i would only use that for the track. If you DONT have an adjustable TA (like me, shh dont tell) you should get one soon, they can help a ton.
Ive also found that for our track, the prep degrades really fast past about 60', so easing into the power doesnt help much, you just spin later. The earlier I was spraying the better the car hooked up , so may be similar for you depending on track prep. I also havent heard many good things about nitto DRs. Try heating them up more or less, and play with the air pressure to try and get them to stick.
Ive also found that for our track, the prep degrades really fast past about 60', so easing into the power doesnt help much, you just spin later. The earlier I was spraying the better the car hooked up , so may be similar for you depending on track prep. I also havent heard many good things about nitto DRs. Try heating them up more or less, and play with the air pressure to try and get them to stick.
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i dont have relocation brackets for the lower control arms. what do they help? also im going to order a torque arm this week what do you recomend? and i guess im going to get rid of the nittos but i still have the stock 10 bolt so im hoping it will hang in there when i really get traction. and yes i have 4.10s, i bought the car like that and it sucks! whenever the rear blows im going to switch to a taller gear because i shift every second and have to go into 5th at the end of the 1/4. i have a spec stage 3 clutch, new so that isnt slipping. my car isnt slammed but it is lowered, does that effect things much on f bodys as far as traction?
#13
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
yea i admit it im not the best driver out there but i garentee it wasnt all me lol. what size 15 wheels do i need, offset and backspacing? i had mt's on my mustang and they are GOD haha. but yea i still have the stock 10 bolt how long do you think that will last, or there is really no telling? i might as well run it till it blows.
#17
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: N. Richland Hills
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I hear 3.42's are a good gear for an FI car, but I would say like everybody else get some ET streets with some 15" Welds or something like that I don't remember the backspacing maybe someone else can help. Oh and my stock 10-bolt is going with a blazing stock engine so don't count on it for too long.
#18
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Talk to Eric at Midwest Chassis. He has good stuff at very reasonable prices. http://www.midwestchassis.com/ I would reccomend the LCA relocation brakets, adj. TA, and better tires. Eventually (when the rear breaks!) loose the 4.10's for somthing higher they are probably killing your turbo. Good Luck!