removing heads ='s disaster?
03-13-2008, 10:40 PM
#4
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Only if you re-install them using the Tornado air intake system, it reduces turbulence and improves the air fuel mixture which will not cause the long term damage.
03-13-2008, 11:11 PM
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03-14-2008, 12:41 AM
#8
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I thought that was common knowlege! ............If you remove just your lower head, you minds well be dead...
(Leave the reattaching to old sci-fi movies)
03-14-2008, 05:20 AM
#9
Years ago it was believed that retorquing the heads on an LT1 caused block distorsion enough to cause a spun bearing so shops were telling customers they had to rebearing at heads/cam swap time. Reality is if the block was distorted that much you would have to align hone it to correct it not just put fresh bearings in. Think one shop in particular was responsible for perpetuating this myth. My guess is they tried to upsell replacing bearings someone said no they did a sloppy job and abearing spun so they made up this story to cover their asses.
03-14-2008, 05:31 PM
#11
Years ago it was believed that retorquing the heads on an LT1 caused block distorsion enough to cause a spun bearing so shops were telling customers they had to rebearing at heads/cam swap time. Reality is if the block was distorted that much you would have to align hone it to correct it not just put fresh bearings in. Think one shop in particular was responsible for perpetuating this myth. My guess is they tried to upsell replacing bearings someone said no they did a sloppy job and abearing spun so they made up this story to cover their asses.
that's what my buddy was telling me. along the lines of having to get the block align honed.
.... i'm getting scared now... i dont know what to expect !!! 
03-14-2008, 10:26 PM
#14
Anyone that's scared of this needs to remove their head from their *** and think about it for a second. There's absolutely no problem with removing the heads. People do this all the time with aluminum blocks and have no ill effects what so ever. Why would an iron block with greater strength capacities be any different?
03-14-2008, 11:46 PM
#17
As Mentioned this was a bad Wives tail passed around to up sell.
Also at the time alot of LTx cars were blowing up due to crappy work and debree being left in the engine. To many DYI guys that had no idea what they were doing and to broke to pay to have it done. You could not get the help and education that you now can on line.
The only worry is that the threads are going to wear out if you do not use studds
Also at the time alot of LTx cars were blowing up due to crappy work and debree being left in the engine. To many DYI guys that had no idea what they were doing and to broke to pay to have it done. You could not get the help and education that you now can on line.
The only worry is that the threads are going to wear out if you do not use studds
03-15-2008, 09:48 AM
#19
Let me put it this way guys, the motor in my car has never so much as had a bearing cap pulled. When I play with heads and cam though I pull the engine, far less chance of debris this way and far less chance of cocking the cam and damaging a bearing.
It is easier to pul a b-body motor than an f-body and yes you can do heads and cam in the car but I prefer to do it engine removed, so much less leaning, easier to keep everything clean and the pan comes all the way off so you know noting snuck down in there to wipe a bearing on startup.
Last time we pulled the engine out of a b-body the tools were in disarray, it was snowing and a couple key things like the tailshaft plug had disappeared and still the engine and tranny were on the stand 5.5 hours after we started putting the car on ramps. Experianced hands, good weather, organized tools will cut that number way down. Biggest time saving experiance makes is actually in tool grabbing, first time you will waste a lot of time trying to figure out what sizes fasteners are, once you know the needed sizes and metric/STD interchanges things go faster, much faster.
It is easier to pul a b-body motor than an f-body and yes you can do heads and cam in the car but I prefer to do it engine removed, so much less leaning, easier to keep everything clean and the pan comes all the way off so you know noting snuck down in there to wipe a bearing on startup.
Last time we pulled the engine out of a b-body the tools were in disarray, it was snowing and a couple key things like the tailshaft plug had disappeared and still the engine and tranny were on the stand 5.5 hours after we started putting the car on ramps. Experianced hands, good weather, organized tools will cut that number way down. Biggest time saving experiance makes is actually in tool grabbing, first time you will waste a lot of time trying to figure out what sizes fasteners are, once you know the needed sizes and metric/STD interchanges things go faster, much faster.
