to make a lt1 faster??
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ya sorry i dont spell good im used to instant messenger i didnt know that my english teacher was in a ls1 lt1 car forum... but i have about 2grand how much gas milage does a cam eat up?? (at cruising speeds) and for a super charger are the labor costs the reason y no one does it? or is it just expensive over all ? and its an a4 and does any one know what i can do for shifting points b/c the owner before did them but shifting out of 3rd its red lined till i let go a lil then let it go to 4th then i can gun it. and i cant easy the gas for a steady raise in mph i have to press till it hits 2000 rpm then it will shift which is kind of annoying sometimes =/ but thanks for the ppl that actually helping its all going into consideration
ok thats better,
your primary mods should include traction and handling,
lower control arms (lca's)
adjustable panhard bar
adjustable torque arm or non adjustable
lowering springs and shocks
some kind of drag radial tire (dr's)
secondary mods should involve anger management prevention..
you might want to look into a 9 inch ford rearend or a gm 12 bolt rear end, the 10 bolt rearends we have are not that great, if you want to make a little bit more power i would recommend a rearend girdle
then after that we can start on the engine.
a lot of people do heads and cam, but your on a 2k budget sooo
you take ~$750.00 for your suspention plus i think its ~$150 for the rearend girdle if you go with that...the complete rearend is out of your 2k price range
(modding sucks)
then you have ~$1000 to go fast with
with your budget i recommend...
all the bolt ons first...
if you have any more questions try a search, if you dont find what your looking for in the search dont be shy to post up and ask us questions, btw, welcome to the sight!
p.s. since your an a4 you will need a higher stall and a shift kit, i think in the tune though he can adjust your shift points, im not sure though, you would have to ask someone who knows more about the tuning then i do...
your primary mods should include traction and handling,
lower control arms (lca's)
adjustable panhard bar
adjustable torque arm or non adjustable
lowering springs and shocks
some kind of drag radial tire (dr's)
secondary mods should involve anger management prevention..
you might want to look into a 9 inch ford rearend or a gm 12 bolt rear end, the 10 bolt rearends we have are not that great, if you want to make a little bit more power i would recommend a rearend girdle
then after that we can start on the engine.
a lot of people do heads and cam, but your on a 2k budget sooo
you take ~$750.00 for your suspention plus i think its ~$150 for the rearend girdle if you go with that...the complete rearend is out of your 2k price range
(modding sucks)then you have ~$1000 to go fast with
with your budget i recommend...
all the bolt ons first...
if you have any more questions try a search, if you dont find what your looking for in the search dont be shy to post up and ask us questions, btw, welcome to the sight!
p.s. since your an a4 you will need a higher stall and a shift kit, i think in the tune though he can adjust your shift points, im not sure though, you would have to ask someone who knows more about the tuning then i do...
Last edited by 97badass; Mar 18, 2008 at 11:01 AM.
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having an automatic definitely increases the life of the 10 bolt. If you have 2k, some people like the suspension, but I would just get boxed lower control arms, if you like a better stance some lowering springs and some kind of shocks like bilsteins. You could probably get everything for under 1 k. Then spend whatever is left on the motor.. and spend 1k on some headers, cai, exhaust, and a mail order tune...the car should sound really good. If you put a cam in the car and start tearing down the motor, there might be other parts you might have to change so there are unforeseen costs. Also doing a cam without the supporting mods is useless.
Putting in a stall would be great in the transmission but is around 500-700 bucks for a nice converter. With the tune you can adjust the shift points, I would not recommend putting a shift kit in in any transmission with high mileage, my transmission builder told me it actually hurts the transmission....I am also a first hand witness to it. We put a shift kit in mine at 83k miles, original transmission, start breaking it back in with new fluid, it lost 2nd and 4th gear right away.
Putting in a stall would be great in the transmission but is around 500-700 bucks for a nice converter. With the tune you can adjust the shift points, I would not recommend putting a shift kit in in any transmission with high mileage, my transmission builder told me it actually hurts the transmission....I am also a first hand witness to it. We put a shift kit in mine at 83k miles, original transmission, start breaking it back in with new fluid, it lost 2nd and 4th gear right away.
And you mean CAI and larger diameter exhaust correct? I noticed you have a BBK 58mm throttle body, that would not be suggested before suspension. Improvements in the suspension can make a 100% stock LT1 car work correct(go faster), whereas move power can just make it burnout a little better. And a bigger TB is not needed until,,, well I don't even know that one yet, but not at all helpful for a long time.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
And you mean CAI and larger diameter exhaust correct? I noticed you have a BBK 58mm throttle body, that would not be suggested before suspension. Improvements in the suspension can make a 100% stock LT1 car work correct(go faster), whereas move power can just make it burnout a little better. And a bigger TB is not needed until,,, well I don't even know that one yet, but not at all helpful for a long time.
I didn't buy the 58mm for this car, it was left over from my TPI car. 93 is old-style so it'll work with my TPI's TB. I don't have it installed yet either, but it's not going to hurt anything with me using it. You are right though, a bigger TB isn't need till you're making 400+hp. A 52mm wouldn't be a bad investment around 350hp though, by then you'll be upgrading injectors too.
I'm aware that suspension work can help drop 2-4hundreths off, easily putting a 14.0 car into the mid-13s. Might just be me, but I like the feeling of more HP, and if you know how to launch there won't be much more tire spin. Especially if you're running DRs. Rear lower control arms are cheap and easy to do, and some sub-frame connectors wouldn't be bad either, as far as ease of installation.
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In an A4 , I'd go stall $700-800 (i like vig or yank). Sticky rear tires $280 (I like Mickey Thompson DR's). A nitorus kit , it can be pieced together for less than $400. Throw in some LCA's and relocation brackets and labor I assume would have you at your 3K. Shop in the used section and E-bay and you may reduce some costs.
He bought the car from me.
Car has:
Gm 4.10's
UMI LCA's
UMI PHB
Jet Hot long tubes
LPE CAI
1LE elbow
Nitto 555r drag radials
Car has been tuned by MADZ28, but may need to be retuned as the tire went to a smaller size *example the shift points*
Car also has the shift points "electronically" enhanced.
A LOT of weight reduction.
Ran high 11's with spray when I sprayed it *through the stall*
You could put in another nitrous kit like I did, and I'd put it in for you for free lol, as I know how to do it. The timing is already retarded to run for it, and the plugs are colder for a N2O application. Car had a 3600 Fuddle Racing stall, and 150 HP shot of TNT. I was running slicks/skinnies at the time, but now he has the stock 16x8 chromes with the Nitto's in the rear.
He has the basic mods. Car runs low 13's on a hot hot day. A good driver should hit high 12's.
Car has:
Gm 4.10's
UMI LCA's
UMI PHB
Jet Hot long tubes
LPE CAI
1LE elbow
Nitto 555r drag radials
Car has been tuned by MADZ28, but may need to be retuned as the tire went to a smaller size *example the shift points*
Car also has the shift points "electronically" enhanced.
A LOT of weight reduction.
Ran high 11's with spray when I sprayed it *through the stall*
You could put in another nitrous kit like I did, and I'd put it in for you for free lol, as I know how to do it. The timing is already retarded to run for it, and the plugs are colder for a N2O application. Car had a 3600 Fuddle Racing stall, and 150 HP shot of TNT. I was running slicks/skinnies at the time, but now he has the stock 16x8 chromes with the Nitto's in the rear.
He has the basic mods. Car runs low 13's on a hot hot day. A good driver should hit high 12's.
Come on guys.....
You have to learn somehow. I'm sure he didn't want to be bombarded with half *** joke comments especially when he's young, misinformed, and uneducated by inexperience in this subject. Yeah, it's all in fun. But just because he types a certain way or talks a certain way etc., doesn't mean he has to be talked down to and made fun of.
I don't get why you guys waste your time saying irrelevant things to him, instead of actually trying to help.
You have to learn somehow. I'm sure he didn't want to be bombarded with half *** joke comments especially when he's young, misinformed, and uneducated by inexperience in this subject. Yeah, it's all in fun. But just because he types a certain way or talks a certain way etc., doesn't mean he has to be talked down to and made fun of.
I don't get why you guys waste your time saying irrelevant things to him, instead of actually trying to help.
Totally agree. That, plus build the driveline to cope with the extra power before you make it. What good is having 400 rwhp if a.) you can't get traction on the holeshot, b.) the car is hard to control on the top end of the track, or worse yet c.) you snap an axle, sheer off a pinion gear, snap a yoke, etc? If you're really serious about building a street/strip car, start with a solid foundation.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Come on guys.....
You have to learn somehow. I'm sure he didn't want to be bombarded with half *** joke comments especially when he's young, misinformed, and uneducated by inexperience in this subject. Yeah, it's all in fun. But just because he types a certain way or talks a certain way etc., doesn't mean he has to be talked down to and made fun of.
I don't get why you guys waste your time saying irrelevant things to him, instead of actually trying to help.
You have to learn somehow. I'm sure he didn't want to be bombarded with half *** joke comments especially when he's young, misinformed, and uneducated by inexperience in this subject. Yeah, it's all in fun. But just because he types a certain way or talks a certain way etc., doesn't mean he has to be talked down to and made fun of.
I don't get why you guys waste your time saying irrelevant things to him, instead of actually trying to help.
sorry.. seriously.....
if you are young.. i would build engine first.. you will have more fun in it in front of your friends and stuff cause of cam lope.. and less people will want to race you... if you put tires on.. your going to brake stuff.. its inevitable.. replace it when it goes with your upgrading parts.. or when money allows...
flame all you want for me saying that.. but he isnt going to want to buy LCA and torque arms if he is young.. just from my experience.. think about it.. thats a little bit sane. haha
Totally agree. That, plus build the driveline to cope with the extra power before you make it. What good is having 400 rwhp if a.) you can't get traction on the holeshot, b.) the car is hard to control on the top end of the track, or worse yet c.) you snap an axle, sheer off a pinion gear, snap a yoke, etc? If you're really serious about building a street/strip car, start with a solid foundation.
the 10 bolt will hold up fine in a A4 if it is set up properly, the previous owner said it already had headers, cai, lca and phb and DR's so......
i would get a tunnel mount tq arm and sub frame connectors and then decide if you want to do a cam or put it back on the bottle or both. i vote for both.lol pm me if you want. i have built some pretty serious lt's if you want more info.
stall is a A4s best friend......