LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Mid tube headers

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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 08:37 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by camarostripes96
oh yeh when everything goes to easy, theres is always a problem gonna happen, thats the way it always works...lol so who did u get ur ypipe and headers from?
Summit, jegs had the headers on back-order, it was 450.00 to the door for the headers/ORY/Ultra-seal gaskets.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 11:37 AM
  #42  
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mine shouldn't throw a code it's a 95 they don't have after cat o2 so as long as i hook up my egr it should run like normal. just louder
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 01:07 PM
  #43  
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well i have the 96 so we are gonna see what happens, anyone ever done a 96 trans am , headers and ory pipe install?
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 01:20 PM
  #44  
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3/8ths ratcheting wrench, case of beer, gojo
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 11:52 AM
  #45  
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do i need to take out the temp sensor when puting lts in or can i just be careful when removeng and installing.
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 12:08 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by camarostripes96
no they wont connect, only shortys will..gues ur on crack lol jk
well that sucks, i guess I'm gonna have to go with shorties eventually to stay emissions legal and all that good stuff..
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 95Banshee
do i need to take out the temp sensor when puting lts in or can i just be careful when removeng and installing.
I slipped my right past the temp sender, just be very careful you don't snap it, it will clear, so know sweat there, just get the steering arm back out of the way, its easier loosening up both ends (just take out the bolt on the rack & pinion only), then lightly pry it off the rack & pinion & lay it to the side, just don't move the steering wheel, it'll go right back on by tapping it in from the top untill the guide bolt goes back in, just some extra info i thought i would throw your way, the oil stick tube will also need to come out, they are curved going into the block rail, so it will come up so much, then take a small hammer & screw driver & tap the lip, it'll fly right out.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 08:42 PM
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can you remove the stock manifolds through the top and leave the spark plugs in untill you get the manifolds off then remove them.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #49  
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Ummm on the driver's side maybe, but not passenger's side. IMO remove everything you can when doing a header swap, if it's in the way move it. This made my effort so much easier with my Hooker's, plus you can finally clean all those nasty @$$ parts caked with God knows what.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 10:10 PM
  #50  
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Take ALL the plugs out, alt. off, air tubes from mannys, then go underneath & disconnect the flange bolts, if you have the car up allready on stands (get it high), you'll need a step latter, i'm small, so i sat in the bay area, if the bolts are rusty on the manifolds, they should still bust loose, my car came from NJ (rust country lol) & they still broke loose, i took both side manifolds out through the top, once they are out, you'll see alot better at what your dealing with, then your still about a 1/3 way home from the complete job LOL, but its worth it in the end, just don't get shorty's, you will hate yourself when it doesn't run any better, if your going to stay with cats, go mid's or LT's.

I took my car out the other day, it now fishtails through 1st from a 20 mph roll. & spins on the 2nd. gear shift & there was still some peddle left, It NEVER did this before, Headers indeed wake these cars up dramadically, so take your time & enjoy the end results, Oh, & the new sound is "FANTASTIC"

If you have Qs along the way, just ask.
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Old Apr 14, 2008 | 11:05 PM
  #51  
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do u have emission headers or did u delete the egr/air?
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Old Apr 16, 2008 | 11:38 AM
  #52  
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my passenger rear bolt is broken in the head so weel see what happens but this week i worked on getting the bolts loose so when i go to remove them they can be thken out without problems the only ones i have left are the ps ftont and the ps second to last witch i may only be able to get to from the bottem and of corse the broken one. i donyt know if i want to grind a slit is the broke one and get a screwdriver on it i think i could get it out that way as easy as it's been to get the others loose it ia broke in the head hopefully flush with it. When i start on it this saturday i will start a new thread and take pictures and make a write up on it or use it for when i run into a problem.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 08:12 PM
  #53  
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Good noose there in. i'm suprised so one told me that the first and last bolt holes arn't used but oh well i ran in tith open y-pipe and like the sound wut when i hooked up the flowmaster it was too quiet and i decided to run with open ypipe. so i am going to get a turn down. and i don't know why people had fitment issues i got the ds in through the top and the ps through the bottem. no problem as far as colector and ypipe clearance there is a good 1/2" to an inch from anything i am vary pleased with the outcome and love the sound.[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
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