LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 09:38 PM
  #21  
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From: naples fl
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You Did Say That You Did Have Injector Pulse Correct? WHERE THE RESISTENCE IN THE INJECTORS 146 OHMS OR 14.6 OHMS. YOU WROTE THAT IT WAS 146 OHMS MEANING THEY ARE OUT OF SPEC BIG TIME IF THATS THE CASE. IF IT WAS 14.6 OHMS ON EVERY INJECTOR THEN IST OUT OF SPEC BY 0.6 OHMS. I BELIEVE THE SPEC IS 11-14 OHMS. DO SOME RESEARCH TO MAKE SURE THIS IS THE CORRECT SPEC AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU FIND.

Last edited by alaureano; Apr 1, 2008 at 10:15 PM.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 10:17 PM
  #22  
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From: naples fl
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Make Sure You Check Them When The Car Shuts Off. They Can Go Out Of Spec When The Engine Get Hot And Fine When They Are Cold Or Warm.
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by alaureano
Make Sure You Check Them When The Car Shuts Off. They Can Go Out Of Spec When The Engine Get Hot And Fine When They Are Cold Or Warm.
I'm going to check my injectors again... it could have been 14.6 ohms. They are accells so maybe that's within spec... seems odd that all of them would be the same.

Tomorrow morning I am going to put my fuel pressure guage on and see what happens while the engine runs. So far I have not been able to do that as the distributor in the back (yes, my engine uses the distributor only to deliver the spark.... the trigger to fire the coil still comes form the opti.). I'm going to try my hardest to bend ever so slightly the schrader valve that is VERY close to the dist. cap in back. That will tell me if my fuel pump is able to maintain pressure.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU for your responses!!!!
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Old Apr 1, 2008 | 11:01 PM
  #24  
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From: naples fl
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If They Are Accells Then The Spec May Be Different From The Spec That I Gave You. Those Were For Factory Gm Injectors. Give Them A Call And Ask For Those Readings Directly From Accel. AND IF THEY ARE THE SAME READING THEN THAT MEANS THEY ARE ALL GOOD OR ALL BAD.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 06:59 PM
  #25  
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Well, I'm back up and running. I found out that my distributor in the rear of the motor was the cause. One of the bolts that holds the cap down had pulled out enough that is was able to move around enough to eventually loosen the cap. While the cap was moving around the rotor contacted the cap internals numerous times and knocked it totally off of the dist. leaving it sandwiched between the metal piece under the rotor and the cap (it was all jacked up). This was a tough one for me to diagnose as I was still getting spark at the cylinder sometime. I only spent about $400 and two weeks to figure this out... I'm getting too old for this stuff..
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:21 PM
  #26  
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From: naples fl
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I Am Also Glad That This Is Over. I Hate Seeing People Having Problems With
Their Cars. I HOPE MY ADVICE WAS ABLE TO HELP YOU IN ANY WAY. GOOD LUCK AND I WILL SEE YOU LATER.

Last edited by alaureano; Apr 2, 2008 at 08:26 PM.
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