LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

355 vs 383 vs 396

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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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Default 355 vs 383 vs 396

I have a 1995 LT1 with 9 miles that im going put in my 1994 S-10 with a T-56.
I was going to drop it in as a stock bottom end, but im thinking about doing the bottom end and heads now.

I was thinking about a 396 with the 292XFI(some might not like that cam and say go custom) I want a nasty idle. I want to show some local 572 guys what a LT1 can do.

Also i would like a high reving motor, but high revs are what kill parts.

The truck wont be a track only, or DD. I plan to drive the truck on nice days, shows and few trips a year.


Which bottom end would be better for what im after?
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 01:54 PM
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probably 383 it still carries a nasty idle has a decent rev and is still decently streetable. . . .
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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All three are great choices. 355's can make awesome power up top and rev like crazy. A 383 is going to be alittle more stout in the middle. I do know a few people that rev there 383 up to 7000 rpm. A 396, well its a 396. Its not better then a 383 but you can say I have 396 in my car. I do infact have a 396 in my car. I don't rev past 6500 unless I really need to.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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If you want a nasty idle get something not ground on a 113 LSA, in an NA LT1 there are only two reasons to look at something that wide. One being emissions, wide LSA means less overlap and cleaner emissions. The other is to tame the idle when you pick too much duration.

Heads are the most important part of the equasion, not displacement, not the cam, what were you thinking of for that??
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 02:21 PM
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The Dart casting from AI that are ported.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 02:34 PM
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It all depends on the setup. I know stock bottom end LT1s in the 10s and 383 LT1s in the 12s. Of course the stock bottom end is a radical cam( probably solid roller) and the 383 is mild and pump gas, daily driven. A stoker LT1 in a light S-10 is alot of torque to handle. I'd go with a 355 forged and a ton of spray for after the holeshot.
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 02:41 PM
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Budget is the key, do not build one of those shitty poorly built 383 or 396. Now if you can do it right on any of them there is no doubt it's a 396. I love mine!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by LT14LIFE JT
It all depends on the setup. I know stock bottom end LT1s in the 10s and 383 LT1s in the 12s. Of course the stock bottom end is a radical cam( probably solid roller) and the 383 is mild and pump gas, daily driven. A stoker LT1 in a light S-10 is alot of torque to handle. I'd go with a 355 forged and a ton of spray for after the holeshot.
I agree.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 97blkz
Budget is the key, do not build one of those shitty poorly built 383 or 396. Now if you can do it right on any of them there is no doubt it's a 396. I love mine!

Budget? whats that? Not trying to sound like a badass, but when we build a car at my shop, we dont cheap out on the motors, that the heart of a car.


I would think that i should be able to build a 396 for $5000-$6000.


The truck we be around the #3300-#3400 when done.

I want to run in the high 11's. I do have a NX kit for GM EFI sitting on the shelf.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Bad94
Budget? whats that? Not trying to sound like a badass, but when we build a car at my shop, we dont cheap out on the motors, that the heart of a car.


I would think that i should be able to build a 396 for $5000-$6000.


The truck we be around the #3300-#3400 when done.

I want to run in the high 11's. I do have a NX kit for GM EFI sitting on the shelf.
****, if budgets not an issue you better run better than high 11's. Yes you "can" build a 396 for 5-6K. IMO do it right I'd spend north of that by 6K. I'd want a hogan or similar intake, solid roller and some bad *** heads. Callies crank, block half filled ,I could keep going but you get the point!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 97blkz
****, if budgets not an issue you better run better than high 11's. Yes you "can" build a 396 for 5-6K. IMO do it right I'd spend north of that by 6K. I'd want a hogan or similar intake, solid roller and some bad *** heads. Callies crank, block half filled ,I could keep going but you get the point!

I still want it street able. LOL
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:40 PM
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check out www.lt4blazer.net Fannon has a clean set up on his 1st gen blazer and his buddy Troy has an s10 similar to what you want to do! enjoy bro!
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Bad94
I still want it street able. LOL
It would be, I know of set-ups like this and they are street driven.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Damn if u work at a shop u should know the answer to your question. i assume r asking for opinions and not input on what to do.... y do 383 WHEN U CAN DO A 396!!! u can make a 355 run almost as great as a 383 depending on your head, ofcourse....my opinion do the 396 CI. yeah it my not rev like a 355 or 383 but y would u need to with all the torque.... u wont lose.
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 04:22 PM
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Why rev the **** outta a car when we know that leads to failure. If you can make boat loads of Tq under 6K , do it!!
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