Lt1 huge problem when warmed up
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: California
dude it could be a lot of things but yeah...i had an opti that would run good for like ten fifteen minutes then crap out
i also had an issue with my fuel pump doing the same thing there are so many possibles if you got the cash take it to a shop...
i also had an issue with my fuel pump doing the same thing there are so many possibles if you got the cash take it to a shop...
Im having the same issues with my truck that has the TBI I have a fuel pump for it and a new oxygen sensor My fuel pump hasnt been replaced in a while and I have ran the tank dry a few times. The oxygen sensor is coated with unburnt fuel and water from my past blown headgasket
Same thing happens to me. When the engine is a open loop the engine runs bad. I apply the throttle at any time Pop bang and runs good than the rpm bounces all around. Black smoke ( unburnt fuel) is flying everywhere. This also can indicate a bad coil too. The heat gets soaked into it and it runs like crap.
I just replaced the cap, rotor, plugs,wires.
Good luck man try those things.
Same thing happens to me. When the engine is a open loop the engine runs bad. I apply the throttle at any time Pop bang and runs good than the rpm bounces all around. Black smoke ( unburnt fuel) is flying everywhere. This also can indicate a bad coil too. The heat gets soaked into it and it runs like crap.
I just replaced the cap, rotor, plugs,wires.
Good luck man try those things.
The temp sensor fixed most of my problems still likes to stall though. But it isn't a btch to get back running. My Coil still has to be fixed it wobbles between the magnet lol.
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You said the old wires were destroyed, as in burnt up? Then the new wires lasted less than an hour? What kind of wires are you running? If this is all true something in your ingnition (i.e. coil, opti) is burning up your wires. My best guess without being able to look at the car.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Canton Michigan
the wires were burnt becuase they were touching the manifolds and one was destroyed because it was resting on my ac delete pully.
i took the car in and they looked at it and they check codes and everything the only code is for my AC and VATs they told me to bring it back on monday so they can figure it out but i really need to get this done
i took the car in and they looked at it and they check codes and everything the only code is for my AC and VATs they told me to bring it back on monday so they can figure it out but i really need to get this done
sounds like the same problem i had when I installed my headers, I replaced the O2's and everything was fine.
O2's only start working when the car is warm anyway. most of anything else the car would have the problem all the time.
O2's only start working when the car is warm anyway. most of anything else the car would have the problem all the time.
you can do a test to see if it is o2s, just unplug one or both of the sensors. That will make it stay in open loop all the time. If it improves then you know that is the cause. Otherwise it is something else.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Canton Michigan
so i pulled off my opti tonight and found out one of the small screws that colds the rotor on was missing and then i noticed there is metal shaved all over and the screw was lodged in the bottom of the opti grinding on everything i dont even understand how this happend im 100% sure i tightend those screws down good
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,564
Likes: 4
From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Put some orange loc-tite on the rotor's threads (if you think it's still useable). If none of that, super glue. But I'd think that would be a constant problem rather than a "only warm" one. I vote for unplugging the O2s (both).
EDIT: Just read your other reply, I'm sure they'll pull the cap off and see the marks.
EDIT: Just read your other reply, I'm sure they'll pull the cap off and see the marks.