Another opti question!
is there any actual way to test if the opti is going out? i know i'm not throwing any codes for it because i just had it scanned friday afternoon because i had the check engine light come on for my EGR, but it was just because i think i knocked one of the lines off of it when i was replacin the oil sending unit and didn't see it... but ya i have a good but bad feeling its my opti
Point being the opti gets an undo bad rap and the majority that go "bad" are just neglected caps and rotors which should be tuneup items but people neglect to treat them as such and then are such raging morons they blame the whole design rather than their own decision to leave the cap and rotor in indefinetely.
You will find a lot of smart guys running the stock piece and a lot of not so smart ones swearing a 13 second car "needs" an "upgrade".
Especially for a 94 with the unvented opti setup I would recommend an MSD cap and rotor kit as it will convert it to vented for you enhancing reliability, should last at least as long as the current cap and rotor have meaning pretty good chance it will outlast the car.
another question about this... is a special tool REQUIRED to remove the pulley when going through the process of removing the opti? or are there any other special items i need to get or be aware of before i do this job? i just want to make sure that i am not going to make this problem a lot worse than what it should be... also, do i need to get a new gasket for the water pump? the pump was replaced about 10k ago, and if i have to get a new gasket its not a big deal, but i just sorta need to know what all else i will need in order to have a car that runs and isnt all rigged up
also, would it be a good idea to go ahead and replace the coil while i'm at it? and also, will i need to be looking for a different set of plug wires and will i need to change the gap or anything with the plugs? they are gapped at .050 right now, and i think they are bosch platinum's if i remember right....
basically, if there is anything that i would benefit from fixing now in the front of my motor that others have found that they have had to break in to and replace and wish they would have done it the first time in this change-out, let me know please... i am no genious to any of this lol... i'm just a kid and am trying to learn as much as possible about cars and motors in general and would rather work on my own stuff and mess it up and learn from it than i would let someone else work on my stuff and not know what goes on...
Last edited by squeals99; Apr 6, 2008 at 08:58 PM.
another question about this... is a special tool REQUIRED to remove the pulley when going through the process of removing the opti? or are there any other special items i need to get or be aware of before i do this job? i just want to make sure that i am not going to make this problem a lot worse than what it should be... also, do i need to get a new gasket for the water pump? the pump was replaced about 10k ago, and if i have to get a new gasket its not a big deal, but i just sorta need to know what all else i will need in order to have a car that runs and isnt all rigged up
also, would it be a good idea to go ahead and replace the coil while i'm at it? and also, will i need to be looking for a different set of plug wires and will i need to change the gap or anything with the plugs? they are gapped at .050 right now, and i think they are bosch platinum's if i remember right....
You need a two arm puller to remove the crank pulley, water pump gaskets&sealer, form-a-gasket to seal the distributor cap (cause the new cap might not come with a gasket and the old gasket will certainly be shot).
You can go ahead and do the entire tune-up including plugs, coil and wires if you know how old they are. If everything is past 5 years it might be a good idea.
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