need help!
need help! I have a 69 camaro with a lt4 in it and seems like it is hitting a rev limiter above 5100 rpm it has a new alternator, new msd coil, newer msd opti, new plugs and wires. here are the specs on the engine
12:1 compression
Eagle h beam Rods
Eagle crank
Srp pistons
Tea stage 3 LT4 heads with port matched LT4 intake
Arp head studs
Arp main studs and rod bolts
comp 987 dual springs
titanium retainers
custom ground cam fro TEA 236/246 610intake
618exhaust 114LSA
30lb injectors
Hardened pushrods
high volume oil pump
MSD opitspark
New GM waterpump
Polished fuel rails
polished valve covers
Holley 58MM throttle body
PCM with motor tune in it
total seal rings
4 bolt main
clevite bearings
0 decked
balnced and blue printed
The tuner also said that alternator voltage was reading 14.1 but at the coil it was reading 12.6 then it drops to 11.6 to 11.4 in the upper rpms. He also said that the actual igintion timing that the scan tool is showing does not match the targeted spark in the wideopen spark table.
thanks guys for your help the tuner didnt seem to be much.
12:1 compression
Eagle h beam Rods
Eagle crank
Srp pistons
Tea stage 3 LT4 heads with port matched LT4 intake
Arp head studs
Arp main studs and rod bolts
comp 987 dual springs
titanium retainers
custom ground cam fro TEA 236/246 610intake
618exhaust 114LSA
30lb injectors
Hardened pushrods
high volume oil pump
MSD opitspark
New GM waterpump
Polished fuel rails
polished valve covers
Holley 58MM throttle body
PCM with motor tune in it
total seal rings
4 bolt main
clevite bearings
0 decked
balnced and blue printed
The tuner also said that alternator voltage was reading 14.1 but at the coil it was reading 12.6 then it drops to 11.6 to 11.4 in the upper rpms. He also said that the actual igintion timing that the scan tool is showing does not match the targeted spark in the wideopen spark table.
thanks guys for your help the tuner didnt seem to be much.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning-7/ post in there they'll probally ask to see a log
The datamaster displayed and pcm commanded timing do not necessarily match, not that big a deal.
I suspect in the end you will find one of you "best" and most expensive parts is the cause.
I do not mean to be an *** but what I see in that list is a whole lot of money thrown at it rather than research and that almost always ends poorly.
Since the coil voltage is dropping you could try and upgrade the power cables underhood grounds and positive, but seeing as a LOT of LT1s run beltless at the track I would think even marginal cables with the alternator working should supply sufficient power.
I suspect in the end you will find one of you "best" and most expensive parts is the cause.
I do not mean to be an *** but what I see in that list is a whole lot of money thrown at it rather than research and that almost always ends poorly.
Since the coil voltage is dropping you could try and upgrade the power cables underhood grounds and positive, but seeing as a LOT of LT1s run beltless at the track I would think even marginal cables with the alternator working should supply sufficient power.
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[QUOTE=96capricemgr;9194821]The datamaster displayed and pcm commanded timing do not necessarily match, not that big a deal.
96 brings up a good point, I never see the commanded vs actual timing in sinc in datamaster, but like he says, no big deal...
96 brings up a good point, I never see the commanded vs actual timing in sinc in datamaster, but like he says, no big deal...
The datamaster displayed and pcm commanded timing do not necessarily match, not that big a deal.
I suspect in the end you will find one of you "best" and most expensive parts is the cause.
I do not mean to be an *** but what I see in that list is a whole lot of money thrown at it rather than research and that almost always ends poorly.
Since the coil voltage is dropping you could try and upgrade the power cables underhood grounds and positive, but seeing as a LOT of LT1s run beltless at the track I would think even marginal cables with the alternator working should supply sufficient power.
I suspect in the end you will find one of you "best" and most expensive parts is the cause.
I do not mean to be an *** but what I see in that list is a whole lot of money thrown at it rather than research and that almost always ends poorly.
Since the coil voltage is dropping you could try and upgrade the power cables underhood grounds and positive, but seeing as a LOT of LT1s run beltless at the track I would think even marginal cables with the alternator working should supply sufficient power.
no offense takin what are you thinking as far as what part? I pulled the opti and i looks okay the rotor wasnt rubing on the cap and the screws are still in place and tight. I bought the engine off a guy on here it wasnt put togeather by me.
Eagle would be my last choice in engine parts.
"stage 3" LT4s are probably better suited to a motor with aftermarket management and a big solid roller
betting those springs are insufficient but I would expect that problem to show up at higher rpms.
MSD opti is less reliable than stock
Holley TB is known to stick open
Far as I know the Total Seal rings can be very nice BUT are finicky about the hone job, average shop probably wont get it right.
Looks to me like the whole package was put together by someone who only did very superficial research and genuinely thought he was buying the best but more in depth research would have lead to different and possibly cheap and better choices.
I believe the LT4 heads like the same plugs as the LT1s, I would try a NGK TR6 at about .040 or a Autolite 104 at the same .040.
Not crazy about the cam specs either but that is a compromise made for emissions in CA I assume.
"stage 3" LT4s are probably better suited to a motor with aftermarket management and a big solid roller
betting those springs are insufficient but I would expect that problem to show up at higher rpms.
MSD opti is less reliable than stock
Holley TB is known to stick open
Far as I know the Total Seal rings can be very nice BUT are finicky about the hone job, average shop probably wont get it right.
Looks to me like the whole package was put together by someone who only did very superficial research and genuinely thought he was buying the best but more in depth research would have lead to different and possibly cheap and better choices.
I believe the LT4 heads like the same plugs as the LT1s, I would try a NGK TR6 at about .040 or a Autolite 104 at the same .040.
Not crazy about the cam specs either but that is a compromise made for emissions in CA I assume.
