SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Leave it off. It's not necessary and makes access to the #2 plug all the easier.
I haven't read the entire post, but if you haven't got the headers in yet and they are coated you might want to stop at a drug store and pick up some self-adhesive ACE bandage to wrap the primaries to protect them from getting scratched while shoving them into place.

Nole Chick

NGK TR55's are popular as well as AC Delco. Bosch has been linked to issues.
The NGK's I got needed to be gapped, you can pick up the little tool for that cheap at the parts store.

I'm also in the middle of this process and have the headers (different brand) in place tonight. I'm learning also, so you ain't the only newb.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Whenever you buy new plugs you should always check the gap.

pooogy

Ok, I got the headers in, bolted down, all the spark plugs and emisssions stuff done. Just have little things like putting the starter and alternator back on. Now I'm on to the Y pipe and clearance issues. The PS header collector is touching something that looks like a heat shield. Should I just let it touch?

The DS header where it connects to the Y pipe looks like it is touching as well, very close to the fuel lines. (I think the fuel line with the wire spring looking thing is actually touching it). Is it O.K. to leave it like this?

Also on the PS Y pipe, the mounting bracket isn't really lining up good. Can I just leave it off?

When connecting the 2 pieces of Y pipe, should I just find a happy medium when it comes to connecting the passenger side to the collector and ds y pipe? Because it doesn't seem like it will fit all the way on both sides.

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

Glad to hear you got them in, now the fun begins lol, you really should have taken the heat shield off, you'll need to wrap the fuel lines & brake line (yes that wirery tube is the brake line) up with heat wrap, then wrap the Y pipe in that area just to be safe, you can accually bend the brake line up just a tad to help clear the Y better, here is a pic of mine.

The last 2 pix are to show how i wrapped the headers to help with heat, it worked out very well, so you don't necessarally need the OTVC wire looms, just get creative & route the factory style wires (these are 10mm wires) & your set, i've put a good 400 miles on this so far, wires are doing great.

pooogy

I broke off my temperature sending sensor, and when I took it out, a bunch of coolant poured out (I hope none of it got on the opti, it doesn't look like any did). What kind of coolant and how much should I add back in? Is there any bleed valve things that I need to release any air bubbles?

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

What did you use to bound the heat tape over the fuel lines and brake lines and the y?

pooogy

Well, I have everything done except connecting the catback. I finally got to start my car for the first time in close to 3 weeks. Hearing the car run with open headers made it all worth while

The headers started smoking after running for about half a minute. I guess this is any oil/grease burning off the headers and is normal?

Nole Chick

Mine had to burn off powersteering fluid since we had to disconnect a line to get to a bolt. Smoked like crazy, but all is fine now. I need to buy a catback since the exhaust shop I got my hi flo cat from this past winter welded it in (and one of my exhaust hangers... )

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

Blk97z28, i used good ol'e bailing wire, its your best bud & way cheaper then strap bands.