I'd have one on mine if that was the case 
yes ANOTHER cam question thread
yes ANOTHER cam question thread Well I FINALLY am getting another fbody this thursday. I previously had a h/c trans am that had stock exhaust 
it only but down 300-300 at the wheels. This car is a bone stock 95 six speed formula. I know I'm putting a shifter and longtubes on it this week. I'll get a cai of some type also. What kind of cam can i get to get me in the 325-355 rwhp range? Should I just bite the bullet and wait til this summer and do a h/c swap? I see guys posting serious #'s on things like gm847 on stock heads ( 355hp! ) If I can obtain something like that, then i would rather same the money from heads and do suspension mods. My t/a had a lt4 hotcam and I really enjoyed the sound. I'm not against a lopey cam, my only concern is I don't want to have to spin the car to 6000+ to make all my power. This will a daily driver and occassionaly see the strip.
Thanks guys,
Devon
it only but down 300-300 at the wheels. This car is a bone stock 95 six speed formula. I know I'm putting a shifter and longtubes on it this week. I'll get a cai of some type also. What kind of cam can i get to get me in the 325-355 rwhp range? Should I just bite the bullet and wait til this summer and do a h/c swap? I see guys posting serious #'s on things like gm847 on stock heads ( 355hp! ) If I can obtain something like that, then i would rather same the money from heads and do suspension mods. My t/a had a lt4 hotcam and I really enjoyed the sound. I'm not against a lopey cam, my only concern is I don't want to have to spin the car to 6000+ to make all my power. This will a daily driver and occassionaly see the strip.Thanks guys,
Devon
I certainly don't want to be a search **** but.....search is your friend. 350rwhp is a pretty modest goal, with a great tune and the right boltons you could get that with a Hotcam. There are much better options but that's just an example. If you are willing to spend the extra $$$$ then a custom grind will more than get you what you want and will likely work great with some ported heads in the future if you choose to do so.
I have been searching for a few days now. Everything turned into a this cam vs this cam arguement or just everyone saying custom grind. I know 350 is pretty tame. My old car was fun and only dyno'd 300. It was enought to keep me very entertained for awhile. Later on I may start looking for 400+, but again thats later.
thanks
Devon
thanks
Devon
I have been searching for a few days now. Everything turned into a this cam vs this cam arguement or just everyone saying custom grind. I know 350 is pretty tame. My old car was fun and only dyno'd 300. It was enought to keep me very entertained for awhile. Later on I may start looking for 400+, but again thats later.
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Thats what I'm looking for. I was hoping to search the board and find dyno #'s on cam only with i/e cars. But again, those became a cc cam vs xfi vs custom argument. My hotcam car only made 297rwhp and 306tq, but I had just bought it and it still had stock manifolds on it. I'm looking to see what will get me another 30-50rwhp over that number with stock heads. If I can get in that range I know i'll be happy for some time, and i can always get a bottle for the weekends.
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Ive seen a hot cam put down 345 in an AUTO car with all the obvious bolt ons so I dont see it being hard to hit 325-355 rwhp(which is a big range) especailly in a M6 car...
If you liked the Hot cam, you should go back to it... and 300/300 with a hot cam is low but if you would have opened up that exhaust before it would have been a different story.. "A CAM HAS TO BREATH"
If you liked the Hot cam, you should go back to it... and 300/300 with a hot cam is low but if you would have opened up that exhaust before it would have been a different story.. "A CAM HAS TO BREATH"
green3spd, i pm'd you back.
But I'll leave it to everyone else as well. What number could be expected with this cam 230/236 .544/.554 on a 112 LSA w/ 1.6rr with an intake, full exhaust, & tune
But I'll leave it to everyone else as well. What number could be expected with this cam 230/236 .544/.554 on a 112 LSA w/ 1.6rr with an intake, full exhaust, & tune
just to give you somewhat of an idea, My 95 A4 car put down 358rwhp/400rwtq with a comp XFI 230/236....think it's the XFi280...with the bolt ons and a 3200stall....still on stock heads as well....solo it's not that hard, but I would suggest a different cam than I have since you want to DD the car..
Last edited by GreatWhiteZ28; Apr 30, 2008 at 06:34 PM.
You said you dont want to shift past 6000+ but this cam listed wants to shift at around 6500+. If you dont want to spin past 6000 or so then you need to focus on cams with a lower duration.
Nah that cam makes power until there you might have gotten that confused with where it shoudl be shifted. For example a cc503 224/230 makes power until roughly 5900-6000 and needs to be shifted at 6300-6400 for maximum performance so a 230/236 is obviously higher.
This thread is very educational in terms of selecting a cam and shift points and was started by the tuner MadZ28 who knows a thing or two. Right off the bat he mentions hows shifting a 230/236 at 6100-6200 will yield poor times. I happened to know from experience as well because when I boosted my shiftpoints up 300rpm once I gained 4 tenths and 5mph:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...&highlight=847
This thread is very educational in terms of selecting a cam and shift points and was started by the tuner MadZ28 who knows a thing or two. Right off the bat he mentions hows shifting a 230/236 at 6100-6200 will yield poor times. I happened to know from experience as well because when I boosted my shiftpoints up 300rpm once I gained 4 tenths and 5mph:
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...&highlight=847
You know how many cars I have tuned that the owner said, according to the cam specs and machine shop that the motor should make power up to 6400 +, people were shifting at 66-6800 RPM, On the Dyno it showed that it was all over by 6000. After you build, I would suggest to go to a dyno, pay for a couple of pulls to see where your power band is, People think that just because the revs are still climbing past 6000 that they are making power...Wrong, spinning the motor for nothing, If no dyno is not accessible then go to the track, keep tabs on your MPH not ET, change your shift points until MPH drops, and that will be your particular shift point...
Notice that I said a GREAT TUNE, and the right bolt ons. That kind of power is not a pipe dream with a Hot cam and over the years I've seen it done around here several times. Now, would it be my cam of choice, not so much, I spin my setup to roughly 67-6800. I would imagine that the Hotcam is a fun cam though.
I well aware that a set of shorty headers and closed up exhaust is not going to get you there, I'm also well aware that the goal is more obtainable though a manual tranny, but it can be done. For a setup that I didn't want to twist to the moon I'd prolly choose a 503 cam. I ran a similar cam in a Mustang and was very happy with it. I simply used the Hotcam as an example, didn't say it was the best choice, just trying to stay as small as possible and suggest something that's capable of doing the job if everything else falls into the correct slots.
And if it runs eceptionally well, you can say "It's just a Hotcam"
I well aware that a set of shorty headers and closed up exhaust is not going to get you there, I'm also well aware that the goal is more obtainable though a manual tranny, but it can be done. For a setup that I didn't want to twist to the moon I'd prolly choose a 503 cam. I ran a similar cam in a Mustang and was very happy with it. I simply used the Hotcam as an example, didn't say it was the best choice, just trying to stay as small as possible and suggest something that's capable of doing the job if everything else falls into the correct slots.
And if it runs eceptionally well, you can say "It's just a Hotcam"
