new 383 lt1
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new 383 lt1 was thinking of a 383 stroker with a killer set of stock ported heads since they flow so well and intake and a nice custom cam with about 11.1 comp. thats the basic of what i would like to do to stay on a budget but still make some good power . i would be happy if it made 400 hp. it is my first motor build and am new to the lt1, is it a good direction?
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"if" you need a rebuild...buy a short block 383 and put your cam and Head choice on.
Golen makes a good short block. AI or LE make good head/cam packages.
If your bottom end is in good shape than just do a head/cam package
Golen makes a good short block. AI or LE make good head/cam packages.
If your bottom end is in good shape than just do a head/cam package
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i have no choice to use the stock heads because im on a budget. so would a 383 or 350 with stock ported heads a nice cam with headers ported tb and a good tune with a couple other little things get me to the 400hp or more mark thanks
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How much is budget? Why 400 hp? Do you mean 400 wheels or crank? Is it a daily driver? Gas mileage important? Will you do any of the work? Is engine running now? Whatg is its condition? Auto stick?
Last edited by BattleShip; May 20, 2008 at 07:13 PM.
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its an auto and it a "weekend car" but i want it to be very street able and nos is not the direction am going . its fully stock right now and high 11's would make me very happy weather 400hp or not i just want to run high 11's thanks
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its auto, budget means stock heads possible stock or rebuild short block... and as long as it will run around high 11's that would be awesome thanks
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To get 11.99 with a 3700 pound car you need 434 RWHP. That will require a power adder such as NOS (ALOT), stall, tune, and gears. I do not see a budget car making it to the 11's and lasting.
To get in the 11's is a challenge to do it on a budget will take alot of talent and ability to do all your own work.
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I wrote a program to calculate et given weight and hp, or I can plug in a weight and time and get hp. There are many calculaors on line that will do it.
Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
I wrote a program to calculate et given weight and hp, or I can plug in a weight and time and get hp. There are many calculaors on line that will do it.
Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
numbers in sig were done in a 451 rwhp car@3450 lbs with a crappy 60ft and a +1800 D/A
I wrote a program to calculate et given weight and hp, or I can plug in a weight and time and get hp. There are many calculaors on line that will do it.
Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
Few give same numbers because of assumptions but allow estimates. 3700 is probably on heavy side for weight but have to assume not everyone is 150 lbs.
I never trusted those online calculators, because they seem to ignore other factors that affect the ET, and power. Lots of Chevelle guys running deep into the 11's, with comparable weight and less rwhp. Not saying there isn't some credibility to the program for the purposes of discussion, but I think we can all agree they are not conclusive or absolute. Just my $0.02.
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I think your dyno numbers are off. The ET’s are calculated for sea level. As I posted in the following thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...t=#post9399774
...if you want to know why there are differences in calculators here is a read
http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm
http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm
Now for my questions to you
Do you believe your dyno can accurately measure your HP with a large stall and a transbrake?
I know many that have ~4000 stall that have LOW numbers on a dyno compared to their track tmes. That is not a problem with the calculator it is a problem with a dyno measuring some systems.
To verify my claim go to ANY track and there will be many who changed to a larger stall, went faster, but dyno'd lower. Does that mean the track timers were wrong? NO, that says the dyno is the problem.
Dynos showing low hp on a large stalled car is consistently reported on all sites, so why would your dyno be different?
