well as we were taking off the belt we noticed the harmonic balancer moving. NOT GOOD. as we took the balancer off the key was competely melted into the hub. Therefore, it would not start.
What do I do from here. Tell me I dont have to have the crank taken out . No bad grooves anywhere just not exactly smooth like it used to be.
a few shaving here and there.
Im guessing that could mess up the timing chain as well?

 

if all checks out and signs point to the opti, id say its carbon tracking on the cap, or the rotor is loose.

 

Get your gauge and check the crank for runout just to make sure you didn't bend it or damage a bearing. I'm concerned about why that balancer is moving. Did the bolts come loose? Bad hub? Got pics?

 

Was the bolt loose? Explain moving. Was it turning on the crank shaft or moving front to rear?

First the stock LT1 harmonic hub does not have a crank key. So did you have your hub ‘keyed’?

And second you do not need a harmonic balancer to start the motor. It is sort of a shock absorber for the engine but it will start fine without it…So I need some explanation for what you are saying. Did you crank the engine? Get spark to any plug? Did you check that the fuse for the ignition is not blown?

Answer above you will be fine the worst is you probably should pull pan if you can’t recover all the pieces of the key. Since the harmonic balancer did not leave the crank you didn't bend the crank.

If it were mine and pan was a bitch to pull I would get what I could and press on. First answer my questions above.

 

Do you have an OBDII or OBDI? I asumed OBDI since you were drag racing but if OBDII hen there is a crank trigger and changes things

 

Yea i had the crank keyed.
also i do think the opti is to blame.
going to replace both. The inside of the hub was beat to death but the crank is still lookin good.

 

yea im going to pull the timing chain, pan, change oil. Also prob get a magnet thing for the oil filter.
Better safe than sorry.
and yes OBD I
thanks for all the help

 

Bad hub. Wasnt set right from the get go.

 

We had the same exact thing happen to one of our shop cars at the track. Rotor had exploded on th 1-2 shift.

We also ran into a hub problem lately from a builder who over honed the hub. Watse of a perfectly good ATI hub. Then again after all the other stuff that was F'd up on that engine by them I guess it was just the last slap in the face.

Good luck man!

 

Turned out to ofcourse be the opti. The bolts were broke off on the rotor. Pieces everywhere.
Now for some reason cannot get the crank bolt out.
Yes I know it was stupid to try and put the hub on by just cranking down the bolt and not using a installer.
Now somehow I cannot get the bolt out. It went in about 15 cranks and then all the sudden got really tight. Now will not budge. Used a 2 ft. cheater bar as well.
we'll see I guess

 

what crank did you use? i glanced back over the posts but didn't notice it.

 

I did this years ago the first time I had to take and put the hub back on. What I did was take a hammer and hit the head of the bolt to drive in back towards the motor. I then sprayed some onto the bolt and used a back and forth (tightening-loosening) to work the bolt out. When the bolt came out it had no threads on it. Chased the threads in the crank (didn't look bad), and got a new bolt. The new bolt screwed in fine after I bought the J-tool installer to put the hub back on. Have never had a problem since and have had the hub off several more times.

 

YAy opti it is... Glad you figured that out... Sucks about the hub bolt though... that's always a pita to work on in the car...