I guess my motor is going then...
#21
I think his waiting probably will cost him this block. The mains will probably be spun. Extra cost to align bore block IF it can be saved. BUT there is only so much that can be removed from the block before the crank is so far in block that timing chain becomes a problem...could use a special timing chain but....
So it is NOT a matter of simply machining the block, there is a limit that can be removed, and I think the damage to his mains will be past the maching limit.
The stock rod and crank handles a lot of power. I mean >500 RWHP.
In my first post I said stop he said he doesn't care. It is his motor, car and money so....
No one believes his approach to continue running motor is a wise decision, but it is his choice. This statement is inserted in case someone searches later!
So it is NOT a matter of simply machining the block, there is a limit that can be removed, and I think the damage to his mains will be past the maching limit.
The stock rod and crank handles a lot of power. I mean >500 RWHP.
In my first post I said stop he said he doesn't care. It is his motor, car and money so....
No one believes his approach to continue running motor is a wise decision, but it is his choice. This statement is inserted in case someone searches later!
Not necessarily as I have seen blocks be revived after very bad internal failures. If he's gonna do a 355 build up or 383 it is worth the money and not that extra to have it Align bored and have 4 bolt main caps installed for added bottom end strength. I personally wouldn't drive it as when I lost pressure on mine (see main bearings above) I shut it off and started the tear down to analize what the problem was. If he still has pressure and is getting oil circulation as well as coolant circulation then it is not too un imagineable to run it for a little.
#22
I agree and why I said
There are limits he has driven this a long time with a problem. Many never get a warning bearings just spins...
The damage wil be whatever it is, but as most have said it will get worse if he continues to drive it. The longer you drive it the greater the chance the blcok will become trash
SBC take alot look at the pics of the LT1 bearings above, they were GONE. Yet seems he saved his block, but how long did it take ot do that damage?
It is all how lucky do you feel.
The mains willl probably be spun. Extra cost to align bore block IF it can be saved.
The damage wil be whatever it is, but as most have said it will get worse if he continues to drive it. The longer you drive it the greater the chance the blcok will become trash
SBC take alot look at the pics of the LT1 bearings above, they were GONE. Yet seems he saved his block, but how long did it take ot do that damage?
It is all how lucky do you feel.
#23
I agree and why I said
There are limits he has driven this a long time with a problem. Many never get a warning bearings just spins...
The damage wil be whatever it is, but as most have said it will get worse if he continues to drive it. The longer you drive it the greater the chance the blcok will become trash
SBC take alot look at the pics of the LT1 bearings above, they were GONE. Yet seems he saved his block, but how long did it take ot do that damage?
It is all how lucky do you feel.
There are limits he has driven this a long time with a problem. Many never get a warning bearings just spins...
The damage wil be whatever it is, but as most have said it will get worse if he continues to drive it. The longer you drive it the greater the chance the blcok will become trash
SBC take alot look at the pics of the LT1 bearings above, they were GONE. Yet seems he saved his block, but how long did it take ot do that damage?
It is all how lucky do you feel.
#24
Those were actually my bearings and it didn't take long at all as it lost oil pressure and a ticking noise developed. If you spin a bearing it will look as mine did above and you probably will loose OP as the journals will be cloged or blocked. Most of the time you have no warning that a bearing is going to go it just goes as mine did.
#25
#26
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From: Orange County, CA
FYI guys, I put 2000 more miles on the motor since this happened. It just did the oil pressure thing again yesterday where it went to ZERO. After 2 hours of sitting, i crossed my fingers and restarted it, and it sprung right back up to 60 cold. Crazy stuff. I know it is the oil pump failing. It might hold together though.
Just checked the drain plug the other day, nothing at all on it. I drove it under 2000 rpm for the last 1500 miles or so, then i started ripping on it. Never shifted above 5000 though and normally dont go above 2500 or so. I LOVE the exhaust this thing has. I have 10 grand or so ready to blow on the car, but I would love to see this thing last me a few more months so i can invest the money a little more. The new SS hood is getting painted right now, I have the new bumper on and lights and everything. Rad support was replaced by the body shop, total for that was $1500. Looks as if the car was never wrecked.
How much longer do you think it will last Basically I've driven 2500 miles or so since I found that metal in the oil as pictured somewhere in this thread. I'm knocking on wood.
Just checked the drain plug the other day, nothing at all on it. I drove it under 2000 rpm for the last 1500 miles or so, then i started ripping on it. Never shifted above 5000 though and normally dont go above 2500 or so. I LOVE the exhaust this thing has. I have 10 grand or so ready to blow on the car, but I would love to see this thing last me a few more months so i can invest the money a little more. The new SS hood is getting painted right now, I have the new bumper on and lights and everything. Rad support was replaced by the body shop, total for that was $1500. Looks as if the car was never wrecked.
How much longer do you think it will last Basically I've driven 2500 miles or so since I found that metal in the oil as pictured somewhere in this thread. I'm knocking on wood.