Need help with my cam replacement
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: I moved to over there
I used the same tool this weekend. BUT the 'pulley' comes off by hand. The hub that the 'pulley' bolts to requires the puller.
Take the puller off and the pulley will rotate on hub, wiggle twist whatever to get it off. Then use puller to pull hub!
DO NOT heat the harmonc balancer you will ruin it. It is held on hub with bolts normally will rotate easilly once bolts are removed.
Also you use the puller to remove the inner hub. You replace the bolt but remove the washer, and turn the bolt on crank ~4 turns.
ONLY the bolt goes on the front of crank (no spacer). The bolt is turned 4 turns on crank to prevent the crank threads from getting damaged when you use the puller.
Good luck
Take the puller off and the pulley will rotate on hub, wiggle twist whatever to get it off. Then use puller to pull hub!
DO NOT heat the harmonc balancer you will ruin it. It is held on hub with bolts normally will rotate easilly once bolts are removed.
Also you use the puller to remove the inner hub. You replace the bolt but remove the washer, and turn the bolt on crank ~4 turns.
ONLY the bolt goes on the front of crank (no spacer). The bolt is turned 4 turns on crank to prevent the crank threads from getting damaged when you use the puller.
Good luck
Banned
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 325
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From: I moved to over there
If the pulley won't rotate of the hub take a file and clean the edge. It should rotate freely on hub.
In the pic someone posted you see the pulley almost off the hub. If this is yours move it back on and file the edge alittle. Rotate push pull etc it will come off.
The hub is the scary part for me and I always breath better once it is off. The pulley can get hit on side on and then tapped toward off.
Good luck
In the pic someone posted you see the pulley almost off the hub. If this is yours move it back on and file the edge alittle. Rotate push pull etc it will come off.
The hub is the scary part for me and I always breath better once it is off. The pulley can get hit on side on and then tapped toward off.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Thanks everyone for your input. I still haven't had any luck getting it off yet, but I haven't tried all of your suggestions yet either... ran out of time and daylight; not to mention the kids needed tending to.
I will post my results tomorrow after I get after it again.
I will post my results tomorrow after I get after it again.
Wrong. The purpose of the center bolt is to thread the "fork" apparatus outward, thus pulling the pulley off, not to thread the center bolt inward.
are you trying to get just the balancer off or the hub? i have recently been through this on my car the center bolt is actually holding the hub on the crank. and to pull off the hub you need to back the bolt out some and push on it with the puller to get the hub started off then you need a longer bolt to put in place of the hub bolt and you will thread that in then use the puller to push against the bolt head again so it will slide off further. remember if you damage the threads in the crank it has to be replaced so BE CAREFUL AND USE ANTI SIEZE.
the longer bolt is so you can have the bolt threaded almost all the way in and have room for the hub to slide off. if you try to use the stock one to pull it all the way off you will damage the threads in the crank.
not to sure if i explained it well enough let me know if you have anymore questions.
the longer bolt is so you can have the bolt threaded almost all the way in and have room for the hub to slide off. if you try to use the stock one to pull it all the way off you will damage the threads in the crank.
not to sure if i explained it well enough let me know if you have anymore questions.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Texas
are you trying to get just the balancer off or the hub? i have recently been through this on my car the center bolt is actually holding the hub on the crank. and to pull off the hub you need to back the bolt out some and push on it with the puller to get the hub started off then you need a longer bolt to put in place of the hub bolt and you will thread that in then use the puller to push against the bolt head again so it will slide off further. remember if you damage the threads in the crank it has to be replaced so BE CAREFUL AND USE ANTI SIEZE.
the longer bolt is so you can have the bolt threaded almost all the way in and have room for the hub to slide off. if you try to use the stock one to pull it all the way off you will damage the threads in the crank.
not to sure if i explained it well enough let me know if you have anymore questions.
the longer bolt is so you can have the bolt threaded almost all the way in and have room for the hub to slide off. if you try to use the stock one to pull it all the way off you will damage the threads in the crank.
not to sure if i explained it well enough let me know if you have anymore questions.
I think you explained it well enough. I am trying to get both the pulley and the hub off so I can pull out the cam and install a new one. I'll try it tomorrow and see what happens; and I'll be extremely careful. I've already gone over my budget by $500 and the wife will kill me if I have to buy something else.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Success! Wooooooohooooooo!!! Thank you to everyone that offered up suggestions, you guys really helped out.
What I ended up doing, and I can't beleive I didn't think of this yesterday, was using the longest bolt that came supplied with the puller and sticking it through the hub until it bottomed out (it was too small to thread in the hub and went straight through to the crank). Then I just used the puller without the pointy end piece pushing directly on the bolt and voila... thirty seconds later the pulley and hub came off.
On a side note, while using the pointy piece yesterday on the end of the puller (as seen in the pics I posted on the first page) it seems to have damaged the first row of threads on the crank and I couldn't even get the right bolt to thread back in through the hub as was originally suggested by some. That's when the idea to bypass that and use the longer bolts came into play despite someone mentioning that yesterday (I'm a little dense sometimes
)
Thanks again everyone!
What I ended up doing, and I can't beleive I didn't think of this yesterday, was using the longest bolt that came supplied with the puller and sticking it through the hub until it bottomed out (it was too small to thread in the hub and went straight through to the crank). Then I just used the puller without the pointy end piece pushing directly on the bolt and voila... thirty seconds later the pulley and hub came off.
On a side note, while using the pointy piece yesterday on the end of the puller (as seen in the pics I posted on the first page) it seems to have damaged the first row of threads on the crank and I couldn't even get the right bolt to thread back in through the hub as was originally suggested by some. That's when the idea to bypass that and use the longer bolts came into play despite someone mentioning that yesterday (I'm a little dense sometimes
)Thanks again everyone!
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Banned
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: I moved to over there
pullng harmonic hub As I said above
Also you use the puller to remove the inner hub. You replace the bolt but remove the washer, and turn the bolt on crank ~4 turns.
ONLY the bolt goes on the front of crank (no spacer). The bolt is turned 4 turns on crank to prevent the crank threads from getting damaged when you use the puller.
Hopefully someone will search and read the way and avoid the crank damage
Also you use the puller to remove the inner hub. You replace the bolt but remove the washer, and turn the bolt on crank ~4 turns.
ONLY the bolt goes on the front of crank (no spacer). The bolt is turned 4 turns on crank to prevent the crank threads from getting damaged when you use the puller.
Hopefully someone will search and read the way and avoid the crank damage