great...
great... i have to change my oil pan gasket and change my pump and install a white spring and poly mounts while im at it.
now instead of the 2 front and rear seal leaks i have 5 spots.
good excuse for a 7 quart pan, or an LS pan!
now instead of the 2 front and rear seal leaks i have 5 spots.
good excuse for a 7 quart pan, or an LS pan!
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While that's not a bad idea, in reality it probably won't work so well. See: Old SBC valve cover to Center Bolt adapters. It'll just cause more spots that could leak, and also would have to be a pretty thick adapter to house the extra set of bolts.
my dad is machining(sp) the metal, but he is thinking about a way to make it leakproof. he machines hydraulic pars for boeing so im leaving that up to him.
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Only way I can think of would be bring the motor block and adapter to a good tig welder 
Also, with it being so thick it'll be spaced too far down and cause problems with the K-Member.
Also, with it being so thick it'll be spaced too far down and cause problems with the K-Member.
idk but the way i measured an LR4 truck pan vs mine and a 1" plate, it should be good enough to clear the K by 1/2"-3/4"
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If the poly mounts were to raise it over an inch, my longtubes would be right up against the floor.They dont raise it much if at all.
^ then either my mounts are gone or sagging like old **** haha. i have enough room to put my hand flat between the collectors and the floor.
my idea is to make a spacer, and utilize the stock bolt locations, and use 2 felpro gaskets, but the upper one would have the front and rear curve seals. then fill in the LS pan's bolts and re drill the SBC/GENII bolt holes, and have a flat gasket going around that. but im going to be using longer bolts and studs.
my idea is to make a spacer, and utilize the stock bolt locations, and use 2 felpro gaskets, but the upper one would have the front and rear curve seals. then fill in the LS pan's bolts and re drill the SBC/GENII bolt holes, and have a flat gasket going around that. but im going to be using longer bolts and studs.
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So ok, you're only going to be using 1 set of bolts instead of bolting the adapter in place? I was thinking you'd bolt 1 down, then bolt the pan to it. How different are the pans? Why not just re-drill holes in the block for the new pan? (Keep in mind I haven't seen an LS series pan)
What are you going to gain from a LS pan compare to something like a Moroso, besides a bunch of headaches and problems IMO. If you can do it, and are hell bound to do it, by all means give it a shot. But id rather just buy a pan thats made for the block, and make it seal w/ no leaks or headaches.
LS pans dont have the curves for the front and rear seals (not from what i saw under the truck) they are flat all around. i was thinking about re drilling the block, but i didnt want it to loose its integrity with 2 sets of holes so close together (swiss cheese). i can get a pan for $20, so itll be a free mod to try out basically besides gaskets. plus i want to see if i can squeeze some extra gasket or RTV on the very bottom of the timing cover since its leaking there 
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OK, so how about these ideas:
Make 2 hump adapters that bolt to the pan and press up against the gasket as a stock pan would, then re-drill the holes in the pan instead of the block.
Or go ahead with the original idea, but still just re-drill holes in the pan.
If you're worried about pan mating strength, you could do an old-school (but still used into the 90s) trick and just get sections of flat metal as load spreaders that act like washers. Theyre one long piece, but not unlike the valve cover spreaders on the old style covers.
Make 2 hump adapters that bolt to the pan and press up against the gasket as a stock pan would, then re-drill the holes in the pan instead of the block.
Or go ahead with the original idea, but still just re-drill holes in the pan.
If you're worried about pan mating strength, you could do an old-school (but still used into the 90s) trick and just get sections of flat metal as load spreaders that act like washers. Theyre one long piece, but not unlike the valve cover spreaders on the old style covers.
OK, so how about these ideas:
Make 2 hump adapters that bolt to the pan and press up against the gasket as a stock pan would, then re-drill the holes in the pan instead of the block.
Or go ahead with the original idea, but still just re-drill holes in the pan.
If you're worried about pan mating strength, you could do an old-school (but still used into the 90s) trick and just get sections of flat metal as load spreaders that act like washers. Theyre one long piece, but not unlike the valve cover spreaders on the old style covers.
Make 2 hump adapters that bolt to the pan and press up against the gasket as a stock pan would, then re-drill the holes in the pan instead of the block.
Or go ahead with the original idea, but still just re-drill holes in the pan.
If you're worried about pan mating strength, you could do an old-school (but still used into the 90s) trick and just get sections of flat metal as load spreaders that act like washers. Theyre one long piece, but not unlike the valve cover spreaders on the old style covers.
i checked right now, and with my oil cooler its gonna be tight with a spacer, maybe impossible.
