VATS-What Does It DO?
VATS-What Does It DO? If the VATS is activated what will it do? I'm having some trouble with my car and have narrowed it down to either my ignition switch, or the VATS. When I try to start my car it seems like the battery is dead, the solonoid on my starter will click once or twice then the gauges will all loose power. I have the new switch, but haven't had time to install it yet, but I will tomorrow morning and see if thats the problem.
But anyway what will the car do if the VATS turns on? Also what are some things that will cause the VATS to turn on?
Thanks alot
BTW I have a brand new battery that I have put on the charger to make sure that its ful charge, and I also have a new starter that I took out yesturday and tested and its fine too. All of the wires to the starter are hooked up correctly and in good shape, not burnt or cut.
But anyway what will the car do if the VATS turns on? Also what are some things that will cause the VATS to turn on?
Thanks alot
BTW I have a brand new battery that I have put on the charger to make sure that its ful charge, and I also have a new starter that I took out yesturday and tested and its fine too. All of the wires to the starter are hooked up correctly and in good shape, not burnt or cut.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, Fl
I had the same problem with my key. Luckily I have 2 ign. keys and had to read the second one. I have heard that the battery trick might work, and most times it will trip again later more likely when your on the road
I believe that it disables the fuel pump, and you shouldn't hear it click on when you go to start.
I believe that it disables the fuel pump, and you shouldn't hear it click on when you go to start.
Last edited by black_sunshine; Jun 13, 2008 at 02:17 AM.
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On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
If wrong or defective key pellet is sensed VATS 1- blocks 50HZ signal to PCM and injectors do not pick (this is programmable) , 2 - does not allow starter soleniod to pick (Theft Deterrent Relay) 3 - Lites the security lite for 5 mins. I agree with post #2 (txd) if solenoid picks your symptom is not vats. Put a voltmeter on the +12 at the starter and make sure it stays above 8-9V when it tries to crank. If it drops significantly, move leads to battery when cranking to make sure it's ok there. If bad at battery the bat is NG, if OK at bat you have a bad connection, don't overlook battery to ground connection. It's just as important as +12V. Also make sure solenoid pick line on starter from IGN/TDR is always there when in start position..
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Verdad Gallardo @ different batterys were used, both with the exact same results. But sometimes when I turn the key to the "run" position the gauges don't come on. But if I just the key slightly past the run position, but not all the way to the start position the gauges will come on. It has never done this before which is making me think its the ignition switch. I was going to install the new switch Friday morning, but the Hot Rod Power Tour was going through my town and I had to watch all of the badass cars go by. I'm going out in in the morning to put the new switch in and see what happens.
My security light turns on when I turn the key on but it doesn't flash, I think thats normal. then when the car starts the light turns off right...
bobded, can you please explain that a little better? I kind of understand what you are saying, but not 100%
Thanks again guys
My security light turns on when I turn the key on but it doesn't flash, I think thats normal. then when the car starts the light turns off right...
bobded, can you please explain that a little better? I kind of understand what you are saying, but not 100%
Thanks again guys
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Turnin20, if you are loosing the gauges in ignition run position without hitting start then don't bother checking out voltage to the starter. You could put a voltmeter on the +12V distribution block (pass side fender well next to the battery) and make sure your +12V is OK when the dash goes dead. If +12v is OK it could very well be the switch.
The security lite under normal operation will always lite for about 5-10 seconds when key is turned on irregardless if you start or don't start the engine. If it stays on you have a problem.
Shbox has a good write up on VATs " http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html " plus a wire diagram " http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html " but again your VATs looks ok here.
The security lite under normal operation will always lite for about 5-10 seconds when key is turned on irregardless if you start or don't start the engine. If it stays on you have a problem.
Shbox has a good write up on VATs " http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html " plus a wire diagram " http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html " but again your VATs looks ok here.
Alright thanks alot for the help bobdec I found my problem, turns out that some idiot forgot to tighten the ground wire that goes to the motor mount. Yeah the ground wire off of the battery, who would have thought haha guess it usually works if you look for the easiest problem first.
But I changed my switch anyways over to the M6 style switch, I figured the colomn was already out so I might as well do something and I already had the switch.
Thanks again guys for the responses
But I changed my switch anyways over to the M6 style switch, I figured the colomn was already out so I might as well do something and I already had the switch.
Thanks again guys for the responses
