LT1 Ignition ?
07-17-2008, 05:01 PM
#5
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there is a kit I think. Mine were the cut to length ones and a super pain to do. I had to have the guys a G-Force help me out. lol, im pathetic.
http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...vid=4&pcid=104
these are the ones I got. but they are the cut to fit ones. I think I have heard of a kit that is already cut. just search around you'll find em.
http://thunderracing.com/catalog/?ac...vid=4&pcid=104
these are the ones I got. but they are the cut to fit ones. I think I have heard of a kit that is already cut. just search around you'll find em.
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07-18-2008, 07:57 AM
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I had a hard time routing my MSD 8.5's around the front pass side of the engine in back of the ps pump. The wires are too thick to fit into the holder there. My next set of wires will be no larger than 8mm.
07-18-2008, 04:09 PM
#11
I went with MSD 8.5s for my OTVC set up, here's a pic:
I like the MSDs because the Opti terminals have a very "positive" feel when they snap on to the cap so you know they are on there good. The wires also have a lot of heft to them.
I like the MSDs because the Opti terminals have a very "positive" feel when they snap on to the cap so you know they are on there good. The wires also have a lot of heft to them.
07-18-2008, 06:40 PM
#14
07-18-2008, 07:40 PM
#17
Most of the big name manufacturer are all good. Taylor, MSD, Accel, Moroso just to name a few. And they have the correct length for the LT1's.
Personally, the over the valve cover set up never really impressed me, it just makes the engine bay more cluttered looking with more wires in view. Just my opinion. I use Taylor spiropro myself in stock location. Here's a pic which I think is a cleaner looking vs. otvc set up.
Personally, the over the valve cover set up never really impressed me, it just makes the engine bay more cluttered looking with more wires in view. Just my opinion. I use Taylor spiropro myself in stock location. Here's a pic which I think is a cleaner looking vs. otvc set up.
07-18-2008, 10:02 PM
#18
Most of the big name manufacturer are all good. Taylor, MSD, Accel, Moroso just to name a few. And they have the correct length for the LT1's.
Personally, the over the valve cover set up never really impressed me, it just makes the engine bay more cluttered looking with more wires in view. Just my opinion. I use Taylor spiropro myself in stock location. Here's a pic which I think is a cleaner looking vs. otvc set up.
Personally, the over the valve cover set up never really impressed me, it just makes the engine bay more cluttered looking with more wires in view. Just my opinion. I use Taylor spiropro myself in stock location. Here's a pic which I think is a cleaner looking vs. otvc set up.
07-20-2008, 05:43 AM
#19
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those are some clean looking LT1 engines/engine bays.
One mistake that I amde was buying MSD 8.5 wires and placing them in factory looms beehind the A/C compressor (drivers side wires did not go back through wire looms). This pinched the wires and the car ran like *** until I found the problem. I checked everything and the passenger side of engine always showed different readings compared to drivers side when scanning. Looked for exhaust leaks, vacuum leajks, etc, etc, just anything that would make that side of engine read differently.
I decided to try some $45 Oreilleys 7 MM plug wires (Magna Sparks, Dura Sparks or something like that, LOL) and when I fired the engine with the new plug wires it sounded mean as hell and after a few blips of the throttle, I could tell I found the problem.
A quick trip around the block and GOOD GOD, the car ran like it should have ran when it was first put together and after chasing problems for 2 months, this was the one thing that made a difference.
Those cheapo wires are still on to this day and the damaged MAD wires went in the trash ($100 lesson learned the hard way).
ANYWAY . . . . . just make sure and enlarge the factory wire looms if using larger wires so you do not make the same mistake I did.
Lloyd
One mistake that I amde was buying MSD 8.5 wires and placing them in factory looms beehind the A/C compressor (drivers side wires did not go back through wire looms). This pinched the wires and the car ran like *** until I found the problem. I checked everything and the passenger side of engine always showed different readings compared to drivers side when scanning. Looked for exhaust leaks, vacuum leajks, etc, etc, just anything that would make that side of engine read differently.
I decided to try some $45 Oreilleys 7 MM plug wires (Magna Sparks, Dura Sparks or something like that, LOL) and when I fired the engine with the new plug wires it sounded mean as hell and after a few blips of the throttle, I could tell I found the problem.
A quick trip around the block and GOOD GOD, the car ran like it should have ran when it was first put together and after chasing problems for 2 months, this was the one thing that made a difference.
Those cheapo wires are still on to this day and the damaged MAD wires went in the trash ($100 lesson learned the hard way).
ANYWAY . . . . . just make sure and enlarge the factory wire looms if using larger wires so you do not make the same mistake I did.
Lloyd
07-20-2008, 07:41 AM
#20
those are some clean looking LT1 engines/engine bays.
One mistake that I amde was buying MSD 8.5 wires and placing them in factory looms beehind the A/C compressor (drivers side wires did not go back through wire looms). This pinched the wires and the car ran like *** until I found the problem. I checked everything and the passenger side of engine always showed different readings compared to drivers side when scanning. Looked for exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks, etc, etc, just anything that would make that side of engine read differently.
I decided to try some $45 Oreilleys 7 MM plug wires (Magna Sparks, Dura Sparks or something like that, LOL) and when I fired the engine with the new plug wires it sounded mean as hell and after a few blips of the throttle, I could tell I found the problem.
A quick trip around the block and GOOD GOD, the car ran like it should have ran when it was first put together and after chasing problems for 2 months, this was the one thing that made a difference.
Those cheapo wires are still on to this day and the damaged MAD wires went in the trash ($100 lesson learned the hard way).
ANYWAY . . . . . just make sure and enlarge the factory wire looms if using larger wires so you do not make the same mistake I did.
Lloyd
One mistake that I amde was buying MSD 8.5 wires and placing them in factory looms beehind the A/C compressor (drivers side wires did not go back through wire looms). This pinched the wires and the car ran like *** until I found the problem. I checked everything and the passenger side of engine always showed different readings compared to drivers side when scanning. Looked for exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks, etc, etc, just anything that would make that side of engine read differently.
I decided to try some $45 Oreilleys 7 MM plug wires (Magna Sparks, Dura Sparks or something like that, LOL) and when I fired the engine with the new plug wires it sounded mean as hell and after a few blips of the throttle, I could tell I found the problem.
A quick trip around the block and GOOD GOD, the car ran like it should have ran when it was first put together and after chasing problems for 2 months, this was the one thing that made a difference.
Those cheapo wires are still on to this day and the damaged MAD wires went in the trash ($100 lesson learned the hard way).
ANYWAY . . . . . just make sure and enlarge the factory wire looms if using larger wires so you do not make the same mistake I did.
Lloyd
Good post!!
Just an FYI, the Moroso wires that I used fit through the OE looms, etc...