water pump ?
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Teching In
Joined: May 2008
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water pump ? my water pump is leaking through the weep hole, do i need to get a whole new casting or if i buy the ewp water pump that will fix the leaking of the weep hole wen i replace the stock pump, if i need to get a whole casting is there a site where i could buy the ewp with the casting?
my water pump is leaking through the weep hole, do i need to get a whole new casting or if i buy the ewp water pump that will fix the leaking of the weep hole wen i replace the stock pump, if i need to get a whole casting is there a site where i could buy the ewp with the casting?
You'll need a new pump. If you get an EWP your old housing can be used.
The mechanical moves far more water at moderate to high rpms, the electrics free up power simply by doing less work, moving less water. That said most people find the electrics adequate.
At 4840rpms the mechanical is moving 66gpm as restricted by the system, at 2340rpms it is moving about 30gpm as restricted by the system. When comparing that to the electrics understand the electrics are a NO LOAD tests and that the simple impeller will be drastically affected by restriction, it is just basically a fan, not a pump that can move a lot againsty restriction.
The few truely intelligent folks who have used the 30gpm units often notice RAISED coolant temps in highway cruising because by those rpms the electrics are already behind the mechanical. The electrics will move far more water at idle, but how much heat does the engine need to shed at idle?
All that said I probably will try one in the coming year I understand they are worth often .1 at the track. I just post all this so you can understand why and no have to listen to the IDIOTS who tout the vast benifits of greatly increaed flow, because that is completely wrong. We would all do better to UNDERSTAND things before we buy.
Also understand that the electrics instead of weeping and still getting you home like the mechainical, instead usually completely and suddenly stop without warning and if you fail to shut the car down fairly quickly it will badly overheat and likely do damage. For a driver IMO the failure mode of weeping like the stocker is a whole lot safer.
At 4840rpms the mechanical is moving 66gpm as restricted by the system, at 2340rpms it is moving about 30gpm as restricted by the system. When comparing that to the electrics understand the electrics are a NO LOAD tests and that the simple impeller will be drastically affected by restriction, it is just basically a fan, not a pump that can move a lot againsty restriction.
The few truely intelligent folks who have used the 30gpm units often notice RAISED coolant temps in highway cruising because by those rpms the electrics are already behind the mechanical. The electrics will move far more water at idle, but how much heat does the engine need to shed at idle?
All that said I probably will try one in the coming year I understand they are worth often .1 at the track. I just post all this so you can understand why and no have to listen to the IDIOTS who tout the vast benifits of greatly increaed flow, because that is completely wrong. We would all do better to UNDERSTAND things before we buy.
Also understand that the electrics instead of weeping and still getting you home like the mechainical, instead usually completely and suddenly stop without warning and if you fail to shut the car down fairly quickly it will badly overheat and likely do damage. For a driver IMO the failure mode of weeping like the stocker is a whole lot safer.
