? on LT1 ATI damper
? on LT1 ATI damper Just wondering if there is anything special that has to be done when installing the ATI damper on a 96 LT1 ? I'm hoping its as simple as remove stock damper and re-install ATI super damper 
Also, should I replace the crank bolt with something like an ARP. If so, does anyone know the part # for the ARP crank-bolt ?
Also, should I replace the crank bolt with something like an ARP. If so, does anyone know the part # for the ARP crank-bolt ? Just wondering if there is anything special that has to be done when installing the ATI damper on a 96 LT1 ? I'm hoping its as simple as remove stock damper and re-install ATI super damper Also, should I replace the crank bolt with something like an ARP. If so, does anyone know the part # for the ARP crank-bolt ?
Also, should I replace the crank bolt with something like an ARP. If so, does anyone know the part # for the ARP crank-bolt ? Be very careful to double check the length of the standard ARP bolt relative to the depth of the threads in the LT1 crank. I've run into a couple that were two or three threads too long (or the crank lacked a couple of threads). It's so close you that might not notice that you've bottomed out but you lose the clamping effect and run the risk of problems with the threads. Just grind a little off the end and the problem is solved.
Whitey,
Wow, long time no see ! What have you been up to ? Thanks for the ARP part #'s. Is there a reason for using one over the other, it looks like the 234-2501 uses a larger head.
Cnorton,
Thanks for the FYI tip on the thread length.
I just spoke with ATI, they gave me the suggested range on the mic'ing the crank: 1.2450 to 1.2454 (suggested range of stock crank diameter). The tech also said, tolerance of .0008 + or - from that range would be acceptable for a press fit. They recommended putting loc-tite on the crank when I press fit the unit, what do you guys think ? If so, assuming the (RED) loctite.
Wow, long time no see ! What have you been up to ? Thanks for the ARP part #'s. Is there a reason for using one over the other, it looks like the 234-2501 uses a larger head.
Cnorton,
Thanks for the FYI tip on the thread length.
I just spoke with ATI, they gave me the suggested range on the mic'ing the crank: 1.2450 to 1.2454 (suggested range of stock crank diameter). The tech also said, tolerance of .0008 + or - from that range would be acceptable for a press fit. They recommended putting loc-tite on the crank when I press fit the unit, what do you guys think ? If so, assuming the (RED) loctite.
Last edited by 96silverram; Aug 4, 2008 at 11:51 AM.
Here are some relatively new pics.
I used the smaller size bolt, but for no particular reason. The socket size is the only difference between the two bolts.
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After looking at your new pics, I feel 
Your stuff just looks better, better everytime I see your car. 
Thanks for the info on the crank bolt. Do you have a suggestion on any particular color of loctite for the crank and damper ?
Your stuff just looks better, better everytime I see your car. Thanks for the info on the crank bolt. Do you have a suggestion on any particular color of loctite for the crank and damper ? LS1 Tech Stories
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Brett Foote It's funny that seeing pictures of my car makes you feel ...because it makes me feel the same way in person.Antiseize is all that I used on the crank. I did use Loctite on the bolts. IIRC, I used blue on the crank bolt and red on the smaller bolts around the damper. I've read some threads from people having trouble keeping the ARP bolts from backing out...so red might be a good idea...but it could also be a real PIA to remove in the future.
You might want to double check with ATI on which color to use. I've never had a problem with the crank bolt. Wouldn't know what to advise although it's hard to imagine a properly torqued ARP bolt coming loose. ATI recommends loc-tite on the countersunk cap screws holding the dampner to the hub. The torque spec on those capscrews is relatively minimal.
Good luck.
Good luck.
