wow, and to think gm engineers would come up with this idea!

 

Less tendency to street race I guess.

Until someone took it apart and figured out how to bypass it..

 

Some say it was to help save the 10 bolt from hard shifts.


Very nice work with the swap Merv!

 

Thanks. I can't wait to get back. Now I have to find a T56 for it, SSI went out of business, so there went my order along with my $500..

 

That sucks man, what about a Son of Transzilla from RSG? No one seems to talk about them on here, perhaps they aren't a sponsor though.

 

Looks good you coulda took adavantage of the pcm controlled shift light though.

 

^^What do you mean..?

I'm going to run a low mileage stock one till it breaks, then get it built by Tick Performance. I don't plan on taking it to the Track that often, but it will be getting some good heavy street duty..

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...933&highlight=

 

That's interesting..

I'd have to get it tuned to do it, and it would only be at one RPM though..

I can adjust the one that I have at any time..

 

Update..

I ordered my Clutch Kit, it's the Textralia OZ700 Z-Grip, rated for 700+hp. I ordered it from WS6 Store, got some free ARP Flywheel Bolts too, they are good guys to work with.


I also managed to find an LS1 T56 as well. It's got 15,700 miles on it according to the guy I bought it from, I paid $1300 shipped for it. It came with a Bell Housing on it, so I sold that to a guy that needed one for $120, so the T56 only cost me $1180.

That's the last of my parts, I'm happy..

 

Merv, something to watch out for...

...on the firewall where the clutch-master cylinder comes through I had the firewall start tearing. On my stock clutch everything was fine, however when I swapped over to the Textralia I also switched over to a McLoud adj master because the 3 stock ones I tried would not push the fluid. Later I found out that the 3 stock ones were just defective (what are the chances of that?). Anyway the McLoud pushes more fluid and because of this there's less "leverage" and more pedal pressure required. I stated noticing that my engaugement point of the clutch kept dropping (very very slightly) over time (2 years). I found what was happening when I started to pull the master out of the car to inspect it.

When I cut my firewall for the master it looks much the same as yours... except that in my top right rounded "corner" had very small "notch" (where the grinding bit i used to smooth the edges caught)...and that is where the firewall started to tear. What was happening was the extra pedal pressure from the McLoud was causing the firewall to flex where the master cylinder bolts to it. That very tiny "notch" that I didn't notice was a weak point in the firewall and over time started tearing.

I repaired the firewall and to help with the extra stiffness I cut a piece of 1/4" plate and put on the inside of the firewall. I wish I had some pics of it for you guys to use but I don't. Basically the plate has the same holes that the firewall does (at the clutch master cylinder) and the Master slides through the firewall and the plate..when you tighten the master cylinder the plate is tightened at the same time. The plate covers a much larger area to distribute the load better and prevent any future tears. It has been also 3 years since I repaired it and no problems.

The factory has alot better equipment to cut that hole than any of us, so keep this in mind when you guys are cutting the master cylinder holes...or any holes that you are also going to be putting stress. I never expected this to happen, but ...live and learn

Looks good Merv!

 

I'll have to keep an eye on that, thanks bro. I got plenty of steel layin around if I need it.

 

cant go wrong with the 6 spd swap... i had one for another car which never got to use and picked up a cheap a4 formula and swapped it in. best mod you can ever do to your auto cars im telling you its so much fun on the street and the gas mileage helps to with the m6 and even with 4.10s. its a fairly straight forward installion and it helped a lot to have some writeups which i found on the net about the shifter cut and firewall cut. wiring is pretty straight forward i cut off the auto section of the harness and started the wiring by adding in my neutral safetly switch which i ran from the pedal over to where the auto shifter plate used to be. my skip shift was deleted when i rebuilt my trans also in the tune aswell so i didnt have to worry about that. reverse lights you also run i forgot where as its been awhile since ive done it but was really straight forward. i hate wiring and have some bad luck and usually get to pissed off or loose patience with it but i thought it was pretty easy so that means anyone can do it. just find your wires you have to tap into and your set.

 

what changes are there in the wiring for 93 cars?

 

Probably very little if any, maybe a different location of the Rev. Lockout Wire on the PCM Connectors, everything else should be the same, you will still have to re-wire the Interior Wires.

 

i'm glad i have seen this raggedy p.o.s because i wouldnt be able to beleive it was near as fast as it is if i didnt see it myself....too damn bad i am gonna have to see it when you crash the damn car....lol see ya merv

 

Hey you fckn **** muffin..lol

It'll be different, that's no joke.. we'll have to take it out and play with it and get a feel for it.

Then I got to run that Poopra..

 

the poopra gonna eat ya lunch if i drive it tom might not have the driving skills we do so that is your advantage....... but if i get in there you will have lot less of a chance.... you forget i had to show him how to drive his car....lol

 

Nice quote, Thanx man

 

So whats the progress? Swap done and you are back on the road?