the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Not yet.. that's tomorrow's project bro..

94Z28-MSTGKLR

iTrader: (20)

Looks good Merv. Did you use the t-top area to hold the battery or did you make up some sort of bracket where the spare tire went?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I guess you could call that the T-top area.. I don't have T-tops, so that's where the Tool Box goes.
That is where I'm putting the Battery, I got a Box for it as well. It will be in the right side of that area, to kinda keep the weight balanced. Personally I don't want it in the Spare Tire well..

Cross

iTrader: (10)

I have never been sure here either. The rules say it has to have a switch no matter what but they had no clue where the battery or the motor was on my MR2... with the F-Body I have never gone but I have thought about doing this just because I hate clutter....

I look forwarding to seeing more pics and thinking about this myself... however I would be losing the spot for a jack and my tool bag... hmmm...

Fixxer99TA

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I am watching this one Merv, you need to do a writeup.... I know for a fact that LTxTech.com is looking for some good writeups, and I dont want to have to do all of them myself

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I hate wiring!! Merv when i get to this part on my car, how about you come up to chicago and do it for me? I have a couch for ya to pass out on and plenty of beer????????

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

I understand

I also used 2ga welding cable to the starter and then 8ga from the starter to the alternator with some 12ga running from the distributor block back to the battery.

chevy42083

If you do a how-to... make sure you cover the soldering of wires into the giant lugs... never did find a whole lot of info on that when I did mine. (pictures are always nice)

First step was smashing the wire into the lug so it would have the "shape" of the inside of the lug... I assumed this would make the best contact when done. After pulling the wire out... I then dribbled some flux into the lug. Cut off several pieces of solder. Used one to smear the flux around the sides of the lug... then put all the small pieces into the lug. Put more than you need... cause the solder may start leaking out a seam that you didn't know was there . I had NO idea there was a seam, until solder started flowing out the bottom of the lug. Also put some flux on the wire. Take a torch (I used a $15 sears propane torch) to the lug until the pieces of solder melt, and then quickly shove the wire into the lug as far as possible... without splashing solder all over your hands
If you don't use flux... the wire will pull RIGHT OUT without bonding to the lug at all... I forgot flux the first time


Things of interest....

2ga minimum for the long + wire from starter to battery.... really should be larger than that... especially if you've got a motor that's gonna pull more amps. Larger wire does NOT hurt.

NHRA Rules state you need a SEALED and VENTED box if it's in the passenger compartment.

NHRA states that disconnect must SHUT OFF THE CAR... not just disconnect the battery. The car will still run off the alternator if your rear mounted shut-off just disconnects the large wire to the starter.

You should be able to feed your distributor block directly from the starter.... but see rule above.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I didn't solder any of mine.. I got the Copper ends that have no seam. I put them on the end of the Wire, got it all the way up in the end so there was no more room for it to move, and squeezed it a little bit with some Vice Grips on the sides. Then I took a flat-head Screwdriver and a hammer and put a divot in the center of the copper crimping it on to the Wire. I done this many times before without any problems.

chevy42083

That too Yeah, I know crimping is one option... I just thought the soldering might be better, and it's something I found no info on. I got my tips from a friend, and thought I'd put them in writing on the net

crazycat

iTrader: (6)

I have mine in the back, but I need to re do it better. I want to do mine like this...

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Well, got the Battery mounted in the Car today. I wired in a Ground and a Jumper off of that so it will make contact with the Body and the Frame.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Anyone have any ideas.. I was thinking Stainless Steel..

Formula350

iTrader: (3)

For what? A tray?

I hope you're going to get a dry cell (Optima or similar).

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I meant a box..

Why do you say Dry Cell?

I believe once you go to that you have to put it in a box and it has to be vented..

lethal93ta

I ran 2ga from the back to the starter and 4 gauge from the alt back so the kill is NHRA legal. I have a flaming river push/pull kill switch hooked up. I welded a 1/2" bolt right to the body for my ground.

pddye

iTrader: (14)

Thanks lethal 93 that is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like a really clean setup. Now for kinda a picky questions which is kinda insignificant how much weight did all that wire come up to going to the front?

lethal93ta

I have another 25 foot roll of 2ga out in the garage I ran out and weighed, that was just under 8 lbs for 25 feet, so really your only putting about 4-5 lbs of 2 gauge in there.

pddye

iTrader: (14)

Hey thats great. I'm deffinately going to have to go that route. Looks really clean. How much did the entire setup end up costing you? and where did you pick the parts up at?

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

That looks real clean. I'm not trying to run in class races where NHRA rules apply, so I'm pretty much going to leave mine wired in. Eventually I may put a switch on it..