quick question on a 383 rod length
i see why they both recomended the 6" now. thanks man!
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That is pure bench racing, nothing really informative about it.
If you want to be sucessful you will have to learn to seperate the real world from the theoretical.
Longer rod makes for a lighter piston, a lighter piston is easier on rod bolts and such. That is pretty much the end of the story.
If you want to be sucessful you will have to learn to seperate the real world from the theoretical.
Longer rod makes for a lighter piston, a lighter piston is easier on rod bolts and such. That is pretty much the end of the story.
That is pure bench racing, nothing really informative about it.
If you want to be sucessful you will have to learn to seperate the real world from the theoretical.
Longer rod makes for a lighter piston, a lighter piston is easier on rod bolts and such. That is pretty much the end of the story.
If you want to be sucessful you will have to learn to seperate the real world from the theoretical.
Longer rod makes for a lighter piston, a lighter piston is easier on rod bolts and such. That is pretty much the end of the story.
Last edited by grn95t/a; Sep 22, 2008 at 02:01 PM.
Just to be clear I am not really taking sides on the 5.7-6.0 argument.
There is a lot to be said for doing it the way the machinists wants to do it. You force him out of his comfort zone and he will blame your decisions for any problems that arise.
There is a lot to be said for doing it the way the machinists wants to do it. You force him out of his comfort zone and he will blame your decisions for any problems that arise.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2005
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I was looking at the price of Scat I-beam rods the other day and their was no price difference between the lengths. IMHO if building a new motor I would go with the longest rod that would fit and not have the oil pin get into the oil ring. Like was said above if nothing else you will wind up with a lighter rotating assembly.
Wow, some of you guys are really grasping at straws. This argument has been beat to death millions of times so just search and you will find tons of info. Unless you are building an all out 10.5 race motor or have to follow certain rules for a class there is no real difference in power output between the two rods.
Someone earlier posted about boosted applications and that's a valid point concerning ring placement, ring land thickness, etc., but if that's the case then the OP would be choosing a piston to suit his needs and the rod length wouldn't matter because if he did need an extra thick crowned piston then more than likely they will tell you what crank and rod combo it will work with.
Of course this is all speculation because the OP didn't specify what he is planning on doing or what application his motor is for. If you think the extra cost warrants the need for a 6" rod and want to use side loads, dwell time, etc for your arguement go right ahead, but you probably also think that a 4/7 swap on a BBC make a huge difference too.
Someone earlier posted about boosted applications and that's a valid point concerning ring placement, ring land thickness, etc., but if that's the case then the OP would be choosing a piston to suit his needs and the rod length wouldn't matter because if he did need an extra thick crowned piston then more than likely they will tell you what crank and rod combo it will work with.
Of course this is all speculation because the OP didn't specify what he is planning on doing or what application his motor is for. If you think the extra cost warrants the need for a 6" rod and want to use side loads, dwell time, etc for your arguement go right ahead, but you probably also think that a 4/7 swap on a BBC make a huge difference too.
well at the current time im tryin to figure out the same thing. we are building a 383 in my lt1 with a p600b and a 50 shot of gas. i was told to run 5.7 rods because of the ring placement with a 6.0 rod being at the wrist pin and with increased cylinder pressure having the rings placed with a 5.7 rod is more suited for my application....
well at the current time im tryin to figure out the same thing. we are building a 383 in my lt1 with a p600b and a 50 shot of gas. i was told to run 5.7 rods because of the ring placement with a 6.0 rod being at the wrist pin and with increased cylinder pressure having the rings placed with a 5.7 rod is more suited for my application....
not tryin to hijack this thread.....
yea we dont have rods yet. something we can think about. guess ill talk to him tomm bout that idea....
looking online it looks pretty limited to run pistons for 5.85 rods. need comp ratio lower than ive been able to find pistons for, standard deck height, cometic head gasket and 56cc heads...
yea we dont have rods yet. something we can think about. guess ill talk to him tomm bout that idea....
looking online it looks pretty limited to run pistons for 5.85 rods. need comp ratio lower than ive been able to find pistons for, standard deck height, cometic head gasket and 56cc heads...
I was joking on the 5.85 rods, those are mostly used when building a 396 so a small CH piston is needed. Point is run whatever rod you want or are comfortable with because in the end it really doesn't matter that much.
Lingenfelter ran 5.850 Oliver rods in their 383 LT1s. It's a happy medium that likely doesn't place the wrist pin in the oil ring lands. I haven't look at a piston for that rod length personally.