Crank pulley removal (97 LT1)
#21
Get an MSD one for fairly cheap, but at 158k you're looking at trouble if you don't just replace the whole distributor for a bit more. You can find them for ~$300 maybe less, but it is very cheap insurance not to have to go thru the headache of having the optical sensor fail on you in a few thousand miles.
I have a question for everyone else on a side note. I have the puller that was used in the vid on the crank hub right now trying to coax this thing off and it keeps turning the engine over, should I put it in gear?
I have a question for everyone else on a side note. I have the puller that was used in the vid on the crank hub right now trying to coax this thing off and it keeps turning the engine over, should I put it in gear?
#23
Assuming it's a manual, put your car in 5th gear and engage the e-brake and you'll be golden. If it's an auto you'll have to get creative on somehow stopping the engine from turning over.
Last edited by SS RRR; 09-26-2008 at 03:16 AM.
#25
Thats what i thought too, i've seen some horror ones in my day, i cleaned up the rotor & its nice & gold now, looks great, the cap was barely dirty inside, the car never missed, i just decided to pull it, i've been having an issue in 4th. gear WOT at 5000 with it having a hick-up after taking out the hypertech programmer, but its running the Gran MAF, i'm going back with a stock screened MAF, hopeing that stops it, it never did this with the hypertech installed, so i figured in my extra time, i would remove the Opti & take a look, i'm really shocked how well the cap/rotor held up after that many miles, i'm not too concerned about the opti going out, if it does i'll just replace it, money is so f#ckin tight right now its pitiful , i hope i don't have to sell the car soon, thats how bad it is.
#26