u wont notice it if u baby ur car around corners (which i always have) but if ur one of those ******** who go flying into corners at 70mph u will def notice it, may even end up in a tree...

i daily drive mine with no front swaybar and with 15x3.5 prostars half of the time.... i can notice it but it isnt crazy.... no issues here

 

Why does someone have to be an ******* to drive 70mhp..

 

around corners!!! that is sraight up dumb on the streets now days....you could get someone killed or maybe even yourself

 

 

you wont reach that with a full complete interior and accessories. to get you started, (as some have previously mentioned) tubular k member and a a arms, fiberglass hood (maybe some other panels if you have the cash), front sway bar for sure, floor mats, spair tire and jack.

i shed 400 lbs off of my IROC. it has no carpet/insulation, no a/c, no p/s, no audio equipment at all. only one lightweight seat (6 lbs), no back seat, no sway bar, and numerous other things. i was weighing as i was pulling and i am pretty sure with everything it was definietly close to 400 lbs.

------

drain your washer fluid (or remove the resivour).

and DO NOT remove any of the impact bars/bumper supports, unless you want to be served up on a silver plate in the event of a bad accident. the insurance company will look at that and probably wont like it too much.

 

Many people in this section are slightly confused when it comes to weight reduction. If you want to find a lot of really good information on it search these people's names: dlove, Jantzer98ss, RAGENZ28 (mini tubbing info), Magnus, The Juggernaut, and SUX2BU. The ideas are out there. You just have to figure out a way to implement them.

Yes, read my thread. I took pictures of the whole process:

Front Bumper Support = 25.375 lbs
Fog lights and brackets = 4.0625 lbs
Cruise control, cable, and throttle cable cover = 4.4375 lbs
Air pump and brass fittings = 5.9375 lbs
Stock horns = 1.875 lbs
Stupid siren and loud horn = 2.5 lbs
Stock Y pipe and single cat = 21.1875 lbs
Frame horns = 5.125 lbs
Fender metal = 1.25 lbs
Rear Seatbelts = 4.1375 lbs
Aftermarket Speaker Wiring (will be added to considering there is a ton more of it) = .25 lbs
Carpet = 29.0375 lbs
Windshield washer fluid reservoir with water = 8.0625 lbs
Heat shields beneath the car = 2.1875
Soon to be useless exhaust hangers = 2.00 lbs
Rear Seats = 22.4375 lbs
Random exhaust hangers, brackets, nuts, and bolts = 9.25 lbs
Front Speakers = 2.75 lbs
Rear Speakers = 3.25 lbs
Front Speaker Brackets = 1.25 lbs
Interior brackets including (rear seat brackets, antenna bracket, rear seat belt brackets) = 3.875 lbs
Security System Hood Lock = 2.6875 lbs
Antenna + Wire (not including the actual metal rod) = .25lbs
Stock catback = 50.1875lbs
Rear Armrests = 4.21875lbs
Extra Metal Trimmings = 1.00lbs
Emergency Brake System = 12.125lbs
Door Fiberglass = 1.90625 lbs
Door Crash Bars and Brackets = 17.5625 lbs
Window Regulator Metal = 1.8846535171744791666666666666667 lbs
Driver's Air Bag = 3.625 lbs
Passenger's Air Bag = 9.46875
Heater Core (empty) = 1.03125
AC Tube = .09375
Black Mat = 10.03125 lbs
Airbag Crash Sensors = 1.53125 lbs
Mat that is Underneath the Dash Pad = 2.34375 lbs
Heater Core Hoses = 2.0125 lbs
Front Sway Bar = 15.09375 lbs
Plastic Shrouding = 4.968749 lbs
Power - Manual seat slider = 14.4375 - 10.8125 = 3.625 lbs
EGR and EVAP parts = 1.625 lbs

Grand total to this point = 307.509699 lbs + all the stuff I still have to either cut out or weigh.

You're confused. Only around 50 lbs of the stuff I've removed from my car qualifies as an interior part of amenity. They are the rear seats, metal brackets that hold them in place, and the speakers. My car still has AC, PS, all of the interior panels, two stock seats ,and carpet. That would roughly put my car at -250ish lbs. That's in the middle of what he asked. I still have another 150ish lbs to go in removing things and it will still look completely stock.

If you want to throw in light weight suspension and parts that makes it even easier. I still have a completely stock suspension, body panels, glass, brakes, wheels, and tires. If you want to add that sort of stuff into the equation my car could easily weigh in at 2700-2750lbs with me (155 lbs) in it and all of the items I mentioned above. If I decided to go all out like you did and switch to an LS aluminum block it would easily weigh around 2500-2600 lbs with me in it.

 

what are the ???? marks for?

 

i think people are confused and they need to read a little more....i want help shedding some wieght, but yet i want to keep it SAFE to drive on the roads...too many people are dieing from stupidity and not wearing their seatbelts...i dont want to take that chance of a backseat rider getting killed because i wanted to shed 10 lbs off my car that wasnt going to make a difference in the long run....ANYTHING else sure but not seats or belts...odds are i cant do it so i will just look at doing motor mods and stuff....

THANKS for the help to the ones that have really helped me and want to be safe about it.. oh and beaflag nice writeup on what you have done....

 

first off you dont need to be saying anyone is clueless... my friend YOU are clueless if you think you will get to 2700 lbs with you in the car.. unless all you have is a steering wheel and a bucket to sit on.. wow.. do you know how much a cage weighs.. do you know how much your going to pick up with some aftermarket suspension.. not all of it is lighter than factory.. 12 bolt or 9 inch.. i think you need to do a little more looking into this... i have factory susppension and rear end and tranny.. with me in the car i am HOPING to get to 2900 lbs with me in the car.. thats with NO options in the car.. fiberglass hood no bumper supports side impact bar heat shi8eld A/C air bags cruise control racing seats liteweight steering wheel...

i hate to bust your bubble but unless you want a full out race car with out a rear end or cage.. you wont hit that mark..

 

To the OP I'm sorry for the .

You're more than welcome to argue with me, but you're arguing with someone who has completley taken one of these cars apart to absolutlely nothing:


I have over 6 months in stripping this car. I've cut out every possible conceivable extraneous item from the car.

I also hate to burst your bubble. I know how much a cage weighs and have helped install two. Not all rear ends are heavier than stock MWCP sells fab 9 inch rear ends that weigh ten lbs less than the factory ten bolt. Add in the fact that I'll be cutting 5 inches off of each side, gundrilling, star flanging the axles, and it's signifigantly lighter than stock. Moly and aluminum suspension pieces also go a long way in weight savings. Of course some items like the rear sway bar are built to be tough and are obviously heavier.

Plenty of people have hit 2700lb race weights look into it. Here's my calculations so far on everything I've removed and will be removing.

3391 lbs stock 1993 Camaro Z28 Automatic
- 37 lbs Spare Tire and Jack
- 3 lbs Head Unit
- 5 lbs Hatch Speakers
- 2 lbs Sun Visors
+ 155 lbs of Driver
- 307.509699 lbs removed so far

= 3191.490301

+ 75lbs Cage
+ 20 lbs Leather Seats
+ 65 lbs Turbo Stuff
+ 10 lbs Carpet
+ 8 lbs Battery Relocation
178 lbs

= 3369.490301 lbs

- 12 lbs ABS Module
- 21 lbs Rear Bumper Support
- 1 lbs Charcoal Canister
- 5 lbs Coolant Overflow
- 1 lbs Grill Insert
- 4 lbs Swiss Cheese Hatch
- 8 lbs Wiring
= -52 lbs

= 3317.490301 lbs

- 50 lbs Chopping Front End
- 8 lbs Roof + A Pillar Metal
- 11 lbs T Top Hump
- 2 lbs Side Body Metal
- 25 lbs BMR Turbo K Member
96 lbs

= 3221.490301 lbs

- 30 lbs VFN 2 Inch Cowl Pin On Hood
- 4 lbs Hood Latch
- 70 lbs Speedglass front and rear windshield http://www.percyshp.com/Reductionsale.htm
Call them tomorrow to ask about blemished 3/16ths rear window that's 60% off = $178
92 lbs

= 3129.490301 lbs

- 48 lbs Strange Front Brakes
- 32 lbs Strange Rear Brakes
- 52 lbs Kirkey Seats
132 lbs

= 2997.490301 lbs

Now, take 65 lbs off for the turbo stuff, then take away another 60 lbs for switching to a TH350 with a lighter converter, aluminum block is roughly another 50lbs. RAGENZ28 removed 118 lbs mini tubbing his car with 40 inch tubs and redoing some of the back metal.

- 65 lbs turbo stuff
- 60 lbs TH350 and converter
- roughly 50 lbs for an aluminum block
- 118 lbs mini tubbing and redoing rear metal

= 2704.490301

I guess I am clueless then because that actually puts me much closer to 2670-2690 lbs if you throw in A arms, shocks, and skinnies.

Your car doesn't have to look like a tin can either. Here's some picture of RAGENZ28's car before he started on his current project:

Oh wait he has the back seats too....

I'm not saying it's easy at all. On the contrary it's very difficult, time consuming, and can be expensive...


I'm sorry for the long winded remark, but when someone says I'm wrong after I've put six months of work and hours of research into something it pisses me off. Madman said it best when he said,
End rant.

 

to you beaflag its understandable....im cool with it, prove your point...READ HIS WRITEUP before you bash him... also if your not for certain dont reply to me, i dont need people who think they know what they are doing tryin to help me, i can get that anywhere...i asked for legit help not help from joe shmoes..also read my wants before you reply to me because if you dont it just makes you look really stupid to others... it wouldnt be the only thread i havent gotten help on before, there are plenty of times when i or someone else really needs help and no help is even given and 600 views on the post, if you cant help out then just dont help out please...dont go bashing ppl in my thread either man because i expect the other to bash back and protect himself...and to be honest i dont want ppl ARGUEING, i want them giving me LEGIT HELP!!!!!!!!
thanks, jarrett

 

^ Thanks.

Here's some legit help for those of you that don't want to sacrifice the security of your car, but would still like to take weight out of it.

There's a lot of weight that you can take out of the doors, but some may not want to remove the door bars because they don't have a cage. Instead you can actually cut on the fiberglass inside of the doors and cut on the metal of the window regulators. It's quite a bit of work, but should remove in the area of 4 lbs. It will also make those heavy doors easier to close, make it easier on your door hinges (squeel), and make your window motors work less because they are moving less weight upwards.

That makes a huge mess so be fore warned.


If I was to do that again I'd take the regulator out of the door. It would be the perfect time to do it if you had to replace a window motor. Use a drill press with a hole saw attached to it. Doing it in the car makes a lot of metal shavings that go every where.

You can also remove all of the heat shields from underneath the car. As long as you have a catback or dumped true duals you'll be able to remove all of them. If you still have the stock catback that gets heavy leave the one by the gas tank. That'll prevent your gas from evaporating due to the heat. That should remove around 2-3 lbs.

For those of you that don't want to remove your front bumper support you can actually cut part of it out. The thing is heavy and the one on my 93 weighed around 25lbs. There's a center section on the back of it that doesn't attach to anything. Two of my friends cut the center section out, but left all the rest of it. That way you'll have a way to attach the front bumper and still have the foam part to support it. That should take out around 5-9 lbs.

If you don't mind removing the dash (time consuming) there's quite a bit of stuff you can take out of there. Underneath the dash pad there is a card boardesque mat that is easily removed and weighs 2 and a 1/3 lbs.

You can kind of see it here. Just don't break your dash pad like I did.

Underneath the whole dash there is a black mat that is attached to the firewall. It's a pain to remove, but with a razor blade and some patience you can remove another 10 lbs.


If you have an A4 setup do you really need the emergency brake? I cut mine out and it removed around 12lbs from the car:

You can also work on cutting out a lot of extraneous wires while you have the dash out. It can be really frustrating, but I've cut out around 10lbs of wires from my body harness alone. I haven't attacked the engine harness.

Running out of time, but I'll work on this some more or maybe make a whole thread.

 

alright... well i didnt understand we were ripping off.. if you want to go that route.. than yea, you could get down close to that low.. but other than going full out crazy.. theres no way....


so all in all.. yes you win.. you were right..

haha.. but for someone who isnt going to gut it and then put it back together that would be impossiblke.. just didnt know we were talking that radical..

 

Has anyone mentioned things like a lighter flywheel, rods, pistons, crank, driveshaft, pushrods, rockers, etc?

Taking weight from those places could make a significant difference.

 

I don't know about 200-300lbs, but here are a few ideas that shouldn't affect daily driving.

Fiberglass hood and tubular K-Member installed and rear bumper support removed permanently.
If you happen to have non-emissions LTs, your cats, air pump, EGR system have probably
"fallen off" as well. Which is good for a surprising amount of weight.

Skinnies and drag rims/DRs installed; spare/jack, front swaybar, rear seats, panels in hatch (with speakers),
floormats and pad under rear carpet removed for racing.
Go to track with <1/2 tank of gas and no washer fluid.

I'm not a huge fan of running a tiny battery or relocating it to the trunk until you
are fast enough to require it. At least not in a car you DD.
You can swap in a lighter dry-cell battery and leave it in t he stock location.
I also don't like to see drag brakes on the street.
But those are just my personal opinions.

If you happen to be building a new motor or even just the heads (or rebuilding the old one(s))) light-weight, balanced
rotating assembly components are a huge plus. Weight in the valvetrain is very small, but also
VERY significant. Strong, lightweight aluminum rockers, titanium retainers and proper valves will
serve you very well too.

Aluminum driveshafts are cheap and easy installs for LT1s that came with steel shafts.
Not a huge HP gain, but they are much stronger and don't vibrate like a steel shaft does.

 

weight of rotating mass is even more significant than the actual mass. aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft, light weight flywheel, etc because it allows the engine to rev faster and takes less inertia to get it going at higher rpm's and goes through the band faster.

 

exactly! I'm surprised noone mentioned it yet.

 

No problem. It's definetly a little extreme for the average person, but it is doable. As long as you have a welder you can make these cars super light. Taking weight reduction seriously goes beyond unbolting things. That's why I like what Madman said.

Absolutely! TEA has a really good spread sheet on their site that has all sorts of valve train part weights. Stock LT1 valves are ridicuously heavy for what they are. A good 8mm back cut stem valve will drop a signifigant amount of weight.

Inertial rotating mass is even more important because of the bevy of forces acting upon it. The base idea is that rotating weight is worth 4x the gain of removing static weight. That's the huge advantage with items like skinnies, flywheels, and lighter balancers.

I think I'm going to do a whole large write up soon about weight removal. I've done a few small ones isolating small areas, but I'm going to put them together and write it up.

 

Thanks for the tip on the TEA spreadsheet. I'm looking at it now. Those Del West valves are significantly lighter than the stockers. Wonder how much of a diff it would make to use the lightest of all components on that spreadsheet coupled with a ligher flywheel and a cf driveshaft. Can't seem to find a price on those valves either...

 

i wouldnt say a lighter driveshaft and flywheel are extreme, or skinnies and lightweight aluminum wheels.

but i do agree that valvetrain parts are way extreme when it comes to weight reduction, unless you are doing a partial rebuild. but at that rate, there is definitely a bigger bang for the buck for other things, (going with better ported heads), bigger cam and rockers.