Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

It would make a huge difference. You'd be limited by the stock bottom end, but with good components you'd be able to rev the hell out of your engine. Light weight internal engine parts should always be considered when building an engine.

The 408 I'm building for my Formula is a dry sump / solid roller engine. I plan on using pretty much all of those components; billet aluminum flywheel, moly DS (carbon fiber is too much $$$ for me), light weight under driver pulley, titanium valves, etc...

Valvetrain wise I'll be using a set of 7mm 2.08 titanium intake valves, 1.60 SS exhaust, comp 26089 springs, titanium retainers, 3/8ths moly restricted tip pushrods, Jesel solid lifters (only weigh 84 grams a piece), and adjustable rockers. I already have about half of those things now, all of the bottom end pieces, and the block. I plan on revving it to around 8400 rpms and that's with a 4 inch stroke.

Here's an interesting set of pistons for an LS application that I saw recently.

They have lightening holes machined into them to greatly reduce their weight. I would absolutely not spray these, but for an NA application they'd work great.

You can't always go by weight though as some components have to be strong. Pushrods and springs are a good example. Those 1.550 diameter springs I'm using are signifigantly heavier than most 1.290ish drop in applications.

Here's a picture of my 2.175 diameter, 5.850 length, 7mm stem titanium intake valves as they sit now:

I plan on having them turned down to 2.08 and shortened to 4.915ish depending on a few valvetrain measurements.

Here's another picture I took comparing stock LT1 (11/32nd stem diameter) valves on the left to those out of a 5.3 LS engine (8mm stem diameter) which are on the right:


Here's a few quick specs comparing two sets of stock valves:
LS1 2.00 / 8mm Intake valve = 101.1 grams
LS1 1.55 / 8mm Exhaust valve = 87.3 grams
LT1 1.94 / 11-32 Intake valve = 110.0 grams
LT1 1.49 / 11-32 Exhaust valve = 95.0 grams

Despite all of the jokes about how I have use crack scale to measure everything I don't have a scale accurate enough to measure the weights of my new valves. What I can say though is that those giant 2.175 diameter 7mm titanium intake valves feel quite a bit lighter than my stock 1.49 diameter LT1 exhaust valves.

Price wise you'll be looking some where in the range of $125 per valve brand new. I got those 7mm valves on Ebay for right around $80. I'll have another probably $150 in having them shortened and turned down, but when you look at buying new valves the cost vs. gain difference is astonishing. There's also a guy named Jarvis (try googleling him) that's not a sponsor, but sells tons of reconditioned high end valve train parts for a really good price.

You'll also need to have the guides in your heads switched to a different stem diameter. After taking apart my stock LT1 heads I think that is almost an absolute must for anyone looking to put new valves for performance in their LT1. 11/32nd stemmed valves in a small block are a joke. I believe that's one area that can be addressed to immediately gain huge peformance out of LT1 heads both in weight and flow.

I'm really going to do a write up on all of this stuff now. I'm basically doing a shorter version now.

EDIT: I just remembered this, but you can also start going into transmission parts. Changing a stock TH400 front drum to a billet piece with both increase strength and drop around 4.5lbs.

xx_ED_xx

iTrader: (17)

yo beaflag

In jax as well

Just got my first LT1 car and my first 4th gen

Needing some parts if you have any....

6Speed

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info!!! I want to pull my heads and send them to LE to be reworked. Right now they are just a home port job with stock untouched valves and 1.6 rockers. With a 306 cam it laid down 370rwhp. I'm hoping with some work form LE and some bad *** valves and other lightweight components that I can easily break the 400rw barrier without changing cams. What would I need to do with the used del west valves to make them work with my setup?

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Congrats on getting your first LT1 car. Shoot me a pm if you need anything and I can check to see if I have it. Most of the LT1 stuff I have are stock parts. If you had an LS1 though I have enough parts to build three engine.

No problem. It sounds like you have a good plan on talking with LE. I talked to him one day and he was super helpful and knowledgable. He definetly knows his stuff.

I have one foreword before stating all of this. I wouldn't run titanium exhaust valves. Just stick to the intake valves. The exhaust valves don't dissipate heat as well as SS. With steel valve seats that can have a tendency to pop the head right off. Kafuckingboom...

In order to use a set of those titanium valves you'd have to do a few things. First off you'd have to find a good set of valves. I'd suggest 7mm stem diameter as they're as easily available as most of the others, but are thinner. I seriously doubt you are going to be able to find a set that are in the right 4.91x length. For that reason I'd just concentrate on finding the nicest set of valves you can find. Make sure they are 100% titanium. A lot of people on ebay like to falsely advertise.

Once you have a set of valves you'll need to decide what size to use. With already having a 4 inch bore I'd use something in the range of a 2.055 intake and a 1.55/1.57/1.60 exhaust valve. Contact the Jarvis guy I mentioned to google. He turns and shortens valves for a really good price.

The next thing you'll need to do is have new guides put in your heads. You'll need 7mm intake guides and what ever diameter you decide to put in the exhaust side. 11/32 is stock. I'd suggest using 8mm LS1 guides for the exhaust. Parts for those are the same price as LT1 stuff and you have more options.

Because you are using a 7mm intake stem talk to the Jarvis guy. He sells titanium retainers in a bevy of sizes. You'll want a 7mm stem for a 1.290 diameter spring set (8 of them) of titanium retainers for what ever style spring you are running. Then a set (8) of titanium retainers for the exhaust side. What valve springs are you running? Are they a single or dual?

The last thing you'll really need are lash caps for the intake valves. Since titanium isn't as strong as SS you'll need to protect the valve tip from the rocker. Just slide a set of 7mm intake lash caps on there and set up the geometry.

I'd let LE do all of that though. Basically, you'll just need to get the intake valves, retainers for what ever springs you plan on running, and let LE do the rest of the cylinder head work. I bet you will hit 400rwhp though. The massive loss of valve train weight and better airflow will make it a monster.

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I also found my write up on how to make your doors really light for those of you that either have a cage or are more weight conscious.

http://lsxextreme.com/showthread.php?p=1374#post1374