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Two questions I will soon answer for
my self (and others) I have yet to
see someone do it.
How can you? And why would you?
In the next coming months I plan to be converting to 24x efi connection system, with a Holley Terminator X PCM, a LT1 style dual plane intake (from summit)with a Holley stealth EFI throttle body (faux carb style).
Again I’m doing this to be different. I like the thought of keeping an LT1 in it and not swapping for a SBC or LS. I want to also give it a little flair with trying to incorporate a stock car type cowl air cleaner style intake. I very quickly mocked up some cardboard as a visual. There will be some/ a lot of trimming, no wipers, and probably a cowl hood to make it all fit.
I find the dual plane intake and carb to be pretty silly if your goal is to keep this an LT1, especially when everyone and their mama is going to ask if that is a SBC lol. Also that is going to be a lot of cutting.
I'll follow along though would love to see the Holley.
Order and now waiting for the Holley kit. Says it is expected to be delivered later this month. Working now on changing over to new timing cover. Wasn’t sent instructions with EFI connections kit. Had to do some internet searching and looking for any tips. Ended up finding out that the kit I chose will need the crank hub machined or to go to a later year, shorter crank hub and new pulley. Found those on Jegs and decided to order them to be safe. I finished up installing the front timing cover. I’m really impressed with the quality of the EFI connection billet cover and setup. Looks really nice!
Woahhhh hype !!!!! Cant wait to see it completed and atleast running ! I bet the carburetor will fit no problem with that manifold but fitting an air cleaner might be an issue.
Woahhhh hype !!!!! Cant wait to see it completed and atleast running ! I bet the carburetor will fit no problem with that manifold but fitting an air cleaner might be an issue.
Thanks! 3.5” for the efi carb height and another 3” for most cleaner sizes. Have been looking at some drop bases to see how low I can make it. Seen drops as much as 3” but will need to see what will fit and have a better idea of trimming. I’m going to try and leave as much as I can to not trim. I know I will at least have to trim the bottom of the wiper housing part of the cowling.
Progress picture. Got some items installed and put back together. Finished up the hawks Motorsports alternator relocation bracket. Painted the alternator black (she was a little crusty and discolored. Installed the Jegs crank hub and dampener. Installed tuff stuff water pump. Also picked up aluminum Holley sniper valve covers cheap on sale. Holley has also shipped the EFI kit finally!
still a lot I need to figure out LS1 Coils/brackets/wires/location, air cleaner housing, what’s getting trimmed, throttle cable, battery relocation, manual brakes, and much more.
Performed the first cut and mocked up the throttle body. I’m very excited but it’s an extremely tight fit! Going to have to most likely cut to bottom of windshield urethane line. I’m able to find a few air cleaner housings that I would love to make work. ARCA racing engine used air cleaner. They have a drop base so that should help with overall height. Found this picture on the internet of similar air cleaner style I’m looking for.
Oh damn !!!! Thats close !!!! Though that isnt as bad as I thought it would be. I thought the carb or "efi" carb thing you have there would be farther back. but no thats actually not so bad. Or atleast as I thought it was going to be, cutting the cowl itself is just very unfortunate. Now im going to assume that that air cleaner isnt going to fit...
I really appreciate the pictures and im impressed with the fun build rout youre going with. I havent gotten a new engine yet, however im considering running a carburetor for the fueling and doing a 24x ignition set up like you are.
Over all im very excited to see more updates and hope for no set backs !
Oh damn !!!! Thats close !!!! Though that isnt as bad as I thought it would be. I thought the carb or "efi" carb thing you have there would be farther back. but no thats actually not so bad. Or atleast as I thought it was going to be, cutting the cowl itself is just very unfortunate. Now im going to assume that that air cleaner isnt going to fit...
I really appreciate the pictures and im impressed with the fun build rout youre going with. I havent gotten a new engine yet, however im considering running a carburetor for the fueling and doing a 24x ignition set up like you are.
Over all im very excited to see more updates and hope for no set backs !
thanks!
pulled the trigger on this air cleaner today. Found it on Ebay. Will see if it fits 🤞🏻. A lot more cutting to go but at least this base drops what looks like close to 3” to save me some room up top. It’s a Roush Composites unit. Assuming Roush Yates Ford?!
Air cleaner would not fit. Not shocking. Nothing a Dremel tool couldn't help fix. Now there are two good size holes in the bottom to accommodate the fuel bowls. Next step is to see what I can modify to help make fit. Thinking of taking another drop base that has stamped spaces for bowls and cut them out to attach to this cleaner. None the less I got the money shot of pictures. What comes next I need to figure out. I need to take the engine out and clean up the engine bay and weld up the back of firewall and figure out way to route to get fresh air from cowl.
Cleaner could go lower. Need to figure out how large of a spacer to use.
Quick update and a few more pictures. I’ve wanted to do this the right way and want to do most of not all the work myself. I’m more mechanic by nature but
stepped outside my comfort area and tried (key word lol) to weld and perform some minor body work under the hood. Still a work in progress but happy with the results so far. Drilled and cut out a couple brackets for OEM ECU and relay box bracket. Welded up the holes that will no longer use in attempts to clean up engine bay. Also took some sheet metal from the car that was removed and welded in a plate to cover original fuel line hole. Pretty proud of my attempt. The whole project has been one of, figure it out as you go along. Welded in holes in front of shock tower along with some on opposite side. Very first attempt welding.. tried to fill in hold with bondo first. Still trying to hone in on setting up welder and technique. Grinders are your friend. Not perfect but good enough for now. Second welding attempt.. spot welds were not the best. Think metal may be too thin for setting on the harbor freight special that I bought. Again grinders are your friend! Could reach bottom corner with grinder so I bought some grinding discs for the dremel got the job done. Forgot to take a picture after I finished. Has a couple small rust areas. sanded down to bare metal and filler where needed. First coat of primer. I could see imperfections a little better with the lighter color. The front of the towers were wavy. Again I’d like to make it look clean. Seemed that every YouTube video watched kept emphasizing shock towers are the first thing that people tend to look at. So I went with another coat of bondo to try and smooth the look out.they look better but No perfect. Another coat or two of primer. I also bought some high temp ceramic coating spray paint in attempt to do something about my completely rusted out headers. I attempted to sand them out but got frustrated and conceded to acknowledge that I will just need to buy new ones. I had already bought the paint and thought, what the hell and see how they would turn out. I was pleasantly surprised at what they turned out to look like with one coat. Not sure how long if at all coating will last but damn sure happy with results.
Last edited by HMSCamaro; Aug 6, 2023 at 09:00 PM.
So life happens but I’m back to it. My wife and I had our first child, I paid off my student loans and now back to it. Since my last post a couple If items now completed. Painted the engine bay black, installed the engine back into bay, installed a battery box in trunk. Installed the A/C delete panel. Working on wire management. Attempted to take apart stock wiring harness to go down to circuits needed. Will more than likely go with an American Autowire kit for the basic functions to make vehicle street-able. Thinking about options for hood and where to get fresh air for intake. Giving real thought to coming upward with a cowl intake to get the high pressure air off the windshield like the NASCAR cup cars used to have. This would involve cutting dash like some of the LS guys do with the tall tunnel ram and Lexan glass. I’m sure this will not be controversial or even met with the question “why?”. Because I’m just wanting something different. Mounted overflow tank using some river nuts and bolts. Turned out good Installed the engine back into the car. Looks good with the black painted engine bay. Possible hole to cut for cowl intake. Would need to build upward housing to meet the lexan windshield. Upward style cowl box that I’m thinking about running. Possible and most reasonable spot to mount the coils. This would make it appear to have a distributor. I wanted to mount on frame rail below headers but room was not my friend. Mounted the Aeromotive fuel regulator in a spot that would be accessible for when needed. Was a good spot because the LS style Holley kit has an electrical connection for fuel pressure right at this location. Roughly bolted in A/C delete panel. Found some pass through adapter for Holley EFI harness. Cut and mounted into the delete panel as the firewall didn’t have a flat enough surface for mounting. Watched quite a few YouTube and search forums for clverticle radiators. Found the griffin to be the way I wanted to go. Will have a friend weld some tabs up for mounting to core support. The vertical radiator gives it the cleaner look I was looking for.
A couple more items checked off the list. I was excited to that I found the Holley, Canton style valve covers on sale cheap ($50) but wasn’t thinking about PCV. These are completely sealed covers that would need modified more than likely welded to make them able to vent PCV. I know I wanted to run a catch can and really liked the motion raceworks can setup. I saw that they also had bolt on ventilation fittings to connect to AN lines. These are fitting that you can drill/cut into their billet style valve covers. This looked like something I could tackle. I really like how they turned out.
Mounted them towards the rear of the cover to keep out of the way. The fitting has baffling within it as a first point of oil catch. Recommended to use red locktite to keep hardware secured. Mounting the can onto the A/C delete panel for ease of access and on a flat surface. Used revnuts and bolts to secure bracket. Had to cut the shorter line again as i didn’t have enough length. But all is well now. Had plenty of hose left over from the kit.
Finished up a few more items while on vacation. Cleaned up the trunk mounted battery, loosely ran the positive wire up front ( still working out starter and alternator harness.
I had purchased a nice willwood brake balance adjuster. This had a bracket that mounted to the brake masters cylinder. Long story short, it didn’t fit. So I thought of making a new bracket but then decided to mount it lower on the frame. I cut and flared the brake lines to work with balancer. My year had bubble flares the needed to be swapped to double flare to work. This worked out pretty well with a lot from harbor freight. I did just today unbolt the post valve lines and will be shortening them up for a bit cleaner look.
Lastly, in trying to mount the coils, I wanted them identically Mounted on both sides but ran out of options fast. So my last location that I am feeling out it on top of the frame in front of the engine. Weird spot for sure but about the only spot I could find room that matched side to side. I really wanted to avoid on top of the valve covers. I’m going to give it some time to see if I like the location.
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Lt1 / 24x conv / Holley stealth EFI 
