how to diagnose master or slave problem?
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From: northwest La
how to diagnose master or slave problem? Car has been sitting for about 3 months, was cranked up weekly. Here is the problem. Will not go in gear no matter what, just will not disengage. I bled the living **** outta it today with no avail. Car is 01 T/A WS6, 6spd of course. Has mcleod street twin with the mcleod adj master and a relatively new slave. I know this gets talked about a lot but i dont see too many threads where people come back on saying what they did to fix it. So where should i go next? I really do not want to pull the trans anymore. How can i diagnose which one is wrong? I dont really want to just throw $$$ at it till i get it right. Oh, and last time i drove the car everything worked fine.
On The Tree
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From: nc nof now
mine did the same thing. i called tr and spoke to shane, he told me to bench bleed the master cylinder until it's like a brick then put it back into the car. don't touch the clutch pedel hook the master cylinder line back in and then gravity bleed the slave. he told me to open the bleeder and just fill the res until a steady stream of fluid leaks out from the tranny weep hole. i'm still doing mine i ran out of dot 3 so i'll start back tomorrow. if anyone has anymore ideas please share as i'm in the same boat as this guy.
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From: northwest La
I havent ever gravity bled the slave before, just the regular way. I will have to try that. Thanks. I ran damn near a whole bottle of fluid through it today and it didnt work. Was yours sitting up for a while when this happened? Its just weird to me. Everything worked great last time i drove it. Is it possible air got in the lines even when i wasnt driving it? The res was full when i checked before i did any bleeding. I have read a few posts about the pressure plate locking up or something like that. I hope thats not the case.
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It might be that your master needs to be rebuilt.
To isolate one or the other as a problem, when disconnected, the master should not allow you to compress it. Should be as stated "hard as a brick".
You mentioned you had the mcleod master and that has been known to leak after some time, ie you press in the clutch, but fluid seeps back due to the seals being damaged hence your slave doesn't compress the pressure plate fingers.
To isolate one or the other as a problem, when disconnected, the master should not allow you to compress it. Should be as stated "hard as a brick".
You mentioned you had the mcleod master and that has been known to leak after some time, ie you press in the clutch, but fluid seeps back due to the seals being damaged hence your slave doesn't compress the pressure plate fingers.
i have the same thing happening ive bleed the **** out of it and great pedal feel but it wont let me put the car in gear .i also have a mcleod adj master which is new and mcleod single disc which is new also . i am going to try a ram hd slave vs a gm product ,this is my 2nd gm slave cross my fingers this will work the ram slave is 350 big ones ! let me know if you fix it ....
I would start with what SladeX said. Unplug the braided line from the slave and then try to press the clutch pedal. If there is no leak, it should be hard as a rock and not move at all towards the floor. If the pedal goes down, I'd say you have a master issue, if not, the slave is the next place I'd look before you pull the clutch itself. I'm assuming you're saying the clutch pedal feels fine when it's all hooked up but the shifter just won't go into any gear?
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From: northwest La
I would start with what SladeX said. Unplug the braided line from the slave and then try to press the clutch pedal. If there is no leak, it should be hard as a rock and not move at all towards the floor. If the pedal goes down, I'd say you have a master issue, if not, the slave is the next place I'd look before you pull the clutch itself. I'm assuming you're saying the clutch pedal feels fine when it's all hooked up but the shifter just won't go into any gear?
You nailed it. I really am hoping it is the master. This is my second aftermarket clutch, this time with all brand new hydraulics. It will probably be fri morning till i can get to it, its raining here now. I will pull the line and see if it is still stiff. As someone who has pulled the m6 2 times on my back on jackstands, this isnt something i really want to do again. Thats why I THOUGHT i bought some of the best **** out there so i wouldnt have to do this again. I'll report back as soon as i can pull the line and test.
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Verdad Gallardo Bingo You nailed it. I really am hoping it is the master. This is my second aftermarket clutch, this time with all brand new hydraulics. It will probably be fri morning till i can get to it, its raining here now. I will pull the line and see if it is still stiff. As someone who has pulled the m6 2 times on my back on jackstands, this isnt something i really want to do again. Thats why I THOUGHT i bought some of the best **** out there so i wouldnt have to do this again. I'll report back as soon as i can pull the line and test.
You nailed it. I really am hoping it is the master. This is my second aftermarket clutch, this time with all brand new hydraulics. It will probably be fri morning till i can get to it, its raining here now. I will pull the line and see if it is still stiff. As someone who has pulled the m6 2 times on my back on jackstands, this isnt something i really want to do again. Thats why I THOUGHT i bought some of the best **** out there so i wouldnt have to do this again. I'll report back as soon as i can pull the line and test.
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From: northwest La
is there a way i can tell if it is the slave before i go pulling the trans? If i get underneath and have someone work the clutch, is it possible to see the slave work from that small rectangular slot between the bell housing and the trans?
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You're pretty much pulling the transmission regardless of whether its the slave or clutch. Just to be sure, the master doesn't depress even in the slightest with the line disconnected? If you apply constant pressure, it doesn't give in the slightest? Just don't stand on it though because it will break, just apply pressure in the sense you want to see if fluid will seep past the seals. Not the kind of pressure like you want the thing to explode.
Recently there was a thread of a busted slave in which the pilot was missing, while slaves can fail all on their own, check for causes of failure first before determining it just gave up on its own.
Also whenever you pull the trans after a failure, make it a point that you'll probably be replacing/repairing the clutch (saw the street twin in sig), pilot bearing and slave. Don't have it apart for nothing.
Recently there was a thread of a busted slave in which the pilot was missing, while slaves can fail all on their own, check for causes of failure first before determining it just gave up on its own.
Also whenever you pull the trans after a failure, make it a point that you'll probably be replacing/repairing the clutch (saw the street twin in sig), pilot bearing and slave. Don't have it apart for nothing.
