slvr98camaro

iTrader: (1)

just got done putting a new clutch in my car a month ago, drove very easy on it for the first 500 miles, and drove normally after that

about a week ago, i noticed that it was slipping very badly, when floored in 4th gear, the rpm's would shoot up, to about 2500-3000rpm then fall back down again.

after about 20min of driving the clutch would completely stop slipping

it did this for about a week, and now it seems to be perfectly fine.. can anyone explain this?

i also made a thread about my clutch not releasing all of the way, but im having second thoughts.. i was told that it sounds like a master cylinder problem (when my car is in gear and stopped, it makes a bunch of noise, and the back tires spin a tiny bit, i replaced everything, slave, TO, pilot, clutch/pressure plate) i saw a problem on a forum about a pilot being too small and turning the transmission input shaft, and im wondering if that could be my case also? the transmission was hell to get back in it didnt just "slide" right in it took a lot of encouraging.. but this may be because the trans wasnt totally lined up, i only had a tiny amount of room to work.. any comments on that??

thanks guys!

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I don't think the pilot bearing/bushing would have that much strength to turn the wheels say in "N" on jack stands, it would have to be very tight, but who knows, anything is possible, sometimes the tranny will be a pain to get back in & getting the pilot to line up if you don't line up everthing with the allignment tool dead on & get the tranny going in straight, i would look at your hydralics again, sounds like the clutch isn't totally disengageing, this will cause it to burn up very soon & start slipping like its doing, i'm no tranny expert, especially on these cars & there hydralics, i just hope my clutch install goes well after hearing all these slipping clutch threads. BTW, when clutches get hotter, they tend to grab better.

slvr98camaro

iTrader: (1)

thanks, this is what i thought originally but while im driving i can hear the sound the clutch makes when it engages, and it will make that sound while the pedal is 1/2 way off of the floor

while i am sitting and have the car in gear and the clutch pressed down i can hear a "rumbling" noise also.. seems louder in 3rd and 5th gear than the others, almost silent in 1st gear, reverse is a little louder also.

im wishing i would have just replaced the clutch/pressure plate, and not everything, im almost positive i wouldnt be having these problems if i didnt

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I would make sure the trans fluid is full 1st. Now when you changed the pilot bearing/bushing, did you make sure it rotated smoothly on the imput shaft before installing it? It still sounds like your clutch is not fully disagageing with the peddle down, this could be a bleeding issue, BUT, if this is the case, it would be alittle hard getting it in gear with the tires on the ground too, so i'll assume if it ingages the gears smoothly sitting, the clutch is releaseing.

slvr98camaro

iTrader: (1)

trans is full, im positive of that.

i did not check the pilot, it completely slipped my mind, but i did however check it with the clutch aligning tool, it went in the pilot, and i dont recall if i matched it up with the input shaft to see the size difference, but im pretty sure i did.

when putting the transmission back in, i did not have to force it in, but i DID use the trans to engine bolts to help me get it in

it usually engages into gear good, like normal, i only have problems with it maybe once every 20 times, also sometimes i wont be able to get it into second while moving, but that is even rarer

i bled it about 5 times and tried it out, and i had no problem getting it into gear though, but the back tires were spinning very fast, i then bled it many more times, and each time i checked it, the tires would spin slower until one point where having the car in gear the tires would move VERY slightly, it would maybe take 5 min for them to do one rotation i also used a mityvac to bleed it, and only very tiny bubbles came up, but didnt do anything.

now, when i was bleeding, i DID let the reservoir empty on accident, but i dont think it got very empty to let air into the master, i also did not notice any differences at all when that happened

i had a problem similar to this on my stock clutch, all of a sudden it was hard to get into gear while stopped, and i had to basically force it into 2nd gear and the really weird thing was when stopped and i couldnt get it into gear and i was in neutral, if i would let the clutch out, i would hear a knocking sound in the rear end.. but that problem completely went away and i drove the car for another year until now when i changed the clutch

im just really hoping it is a bleeding problem because i really would NOT like to take this transmission back out, not to mention its gonna start snowing soon

is there any way to diagnose a master vs. a slave problem? also from what i have said so far, what does it sound like?

thanks so far for the help!

slvr98camaro

iTrader: (1)

just an update, but it was slipping really bad today, i hit the gas and my rpm's shot up and when i let off of the gas they shot back down again

hopefully this weekend sometime i can try and bleed it again, if that doesnt work, i will try replacing the master cylinder, and if that doesnt work, im gonna have to take the trans off and replace the slave/to bearing

do you guys think my clutch disc has been damaged in any way from the slipping? i feel sick just thinking about tearing everything apart again

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Its slippling which means its damaged and you need a new set. Sorry

BALLSS

we can try and diagnose your problem over the internet...but if your clutch is slipping. makes noise, has engagement issues...a few things possible.

You did see gradual improvement with each bleed which would indicate that being a primary cause of engagement issue.

Noise...your "description" would make me guess there is a internal tranny problem IF the T.O. bearing and Pilot bearing check out. Needless to say you will have to pull the tranny/clutch to find out.

I did the 4L60E/T56 swap in my B-body....man I pulled the tranny/clutch countless times during that "learning curve" so I know your frustration level.

what I can suggest is NEVER use tranny bolts to pull tranny in. You may have "gauled" pilot bushing/bearing and that "may" be a source of noise...you know what you need to do to find that out.

I would also confirm input shaft is not fouled/bent. It's bearings is good.

Tip on alignment tool on clutch install. Put direct force inward while aligning the clutch. Once you "think" it is lined up with a few PP bolts slightly tight run your fingers around PP & disc. There should be == distance all the way around as to their edges. If there is some "offset" it is not aligned.

Also confirm the PP bolts are TQ to spec. Over tightening them will cause "engagement" issues to the point it won't. Do think that is your case but confirm.

Don't have your motor specs or mods but if you drive through the clutch in 4th...sign it is not enough clutch for your motor. This assumes there is not a oil leak or hydraulic fluid leak causing slipping. Mighty Vac seems to be the only way to go if your ride causes you to "break" into the system.

I ran a "stock" clutch with my head/cam package but when I went to 383 I could drive right through it in 4th if I floored it at 40 mph.

Ran a SPEC 2+, short life. Now have the ZOOM HP which has great street maners and holds, so far, at the track running a tire (4400 lb car)

LM97Z

iTrader: (4)

I agree, once it starts slipping, it'll be toasted soon, it will never recover & have the grip it should have, it may get you by under normal conditions for a alittle while, but thats no good, thats why once mine started slipping at the track, it was replace time, so just consider replaceing it.

slvr98camaro

iTrader: (1)

the reason why i asked is because like i said, after 20 or so min of driving it will be perfectly fine, no slipping at all, acts perfectly normal

thanks for your input, i doubt there is anything wrong with the transmission, im pretty sure im hearing the TO bearing

i in NO way forced the transmission back in using the bolts, i can tell you that while it was going back in, i did a lot of wiggling but i used the bolts when the transmission was about 1/2" away from the engine after that, i kept wiggling it and then tightening the bolts as i went

everything was torqued to spec, im sure of that, i went in a criss cross motion on the pressure plate, and IIRC i also did a 2 step torque on it.. believe me i was very careful because i snapped two flywheel bolts.. thank god for the stripped bolt removers because i would have been screwed, the bolts were snapped and only sticking out of the crank maybe 1/8"

im running a stock clutch, it was some exedy kit i bought off of ebay, i think the clutch plate was a dk.. not sure about the pressure plate or anything else, other than that everything is stock

like, it took me 6 days to do my car (although i did some other stuff, like change the pinion seal and rear main, and cleaned everything.. and had to wait for 2 or 3 days for my new flywheel bolts) but i just feel like having a shop do it this time.. that way if i have a problem i can take it back and have them fix it.. this seems to be turning into a nightmare for me this is my only car that i can use to get around, and i need it as my daily driver (i planned my clutch install when my father was on vacation so i could borrow his car) do you think i can make it through the winter and fix everything in the spring? its not like the clutch is slipping all of the time only for the first few min of driving.. that would make me feel a TON better knowing it will last that long

also, im not loosing any clutch fluid and it is still clear

edit* also lets say that i do infact need to change the clutch, can i just get a new disc, or should i get everything new again? what about using the stock slave? im assuming the flywheel will be pretty messed up since it is slipping and i will need to get it milled down?

BALLSS

sounds like when you heat the clutch up it holds...should be OK to drive unless situation becomes worse. It won't hurt anything more than/if it has already.

My $02 on any clutch replacement is replace PP & Disc and have flywheel resurfaced or replaced. Not aware of any machine shop that can resurface PP.

slvr98camaro

iTrader: (1)

thanks, you are making me feel a lot better now

im just really hoping it is a hydraulic problem hopefully i can bleed it next week, its been nonstop rain here so far

slvr98camaro

iTrader: (1)

so, sunday i drove my car, the clutch slipped a bit, but was fine.. and that was after nor driving it for 3 days before.

my friend came over and took a little test drive.. and he beat on the clutch a little bit, and since he wasnt used to driving it, slipped it a lot more than usual

ever since then, my clutch has NOT slipped one tiny bit.. its almost like when you beat on it, it works fine?

im still going to try and bleed it all over again, but i just thought that was interesting.. i also noticed that the temp's outside before it started slipping were around 70-75 degrees, and they were in the mid to low 50's when it started slipping, and now its not slipping and i dont think it has been abve 40 degrees

just a little something i noticed..