Clutch, what clutch?
10-26-2008, 06:59 PM
#1
Clutch, what clutch? Did brakes all the way around last month (sep). Took the car out and realized I had no clutch pressue. Long story short after driving it for a while over the course of a couple days, things seemed to ressume back to normal. Okay.
This past week had a few days leavin work where I got caught up in some heavy stop-start traffic
makes me pissed (all that wear and tare on my baby). Anywho yesterday ran some errands to the base and on my way home bout 2 miles or so I realized im loosin clutch pressure yet again, to the point where i had to wrap my foot under it to bring it back.
Did some readin on here yesterday about problems with the clutch and stickies on the drill mod etc. Today w/ a buddy we spent 3.5 hours trying to bleed the system. He'd depress the clutch hold it, i'd be underneath and crack the bleeder valve. Hardly ANYTHING came out. Alittle DOT3 came out but barely enough to even mention. We'd check the resv. level and it consistenly stayed the same.
Tried sucking out all the fluid from the resv. with a hose (DOT 3 tastes like *** by the way) and poured fresh fluid in and tried to slowly working the clutch but after 15 or 20 mins Nothing. The car is all stock, w/ the few bolt-ons mentioned. It was a garage queen before I had it. Is it possible that when I did the brakes lastmonth that I messed up the hydrualics in the clutch? I didn't crack a sing brake line when i did them, just did one caliper at time and used a C-clamp. With my '88 still having ignition issues im really screwed
This past week had a few days leavin work where I got caught up in some heavy stop-start traffic
makes me pissed (all that wear and tare on my baby). Anywho yesterday ran some errands to the base and on my way home bout 2 miles or so I realized im loosin clutch pressure yet again, to the point where i had to wrap my foot under it to bring it back. Did some readin on here yesterday about problems with the clutch and stickies on the drill mod etc. Today w/ a buddy we spent 3.5 hours trying to bleed the system. He'd depress the clutch hold it, i'd be underneath and crack the bleeder valve. Hardly ANYTHING came out. Alittle DOT3 came out but barely enough to even mention. We'd check the resv. level and it consistenly stayed the same.
Tried sucking out all the fluid from the resv. with a hose (DOT 3 tastes like *** by the way) and poured fresh fluid in and tried to slowly working the clutch but after 15 or 20 mins Nothing. The car is all stock, w/ the few bolt-ons mentioned. It was a garage queen before I had it. Is it possible that when I did the brakes lastmonth that I messed up the hydrualics in the clutch? I didn't crack a sing brake line when i did them, just did one caliper at time and used a C-clamp. With my '88 still having ignition issues im really screwed
10-26-2008, 07:03 PM
#2
Using that method to bleed the clutch is pretty much useless. If you can, use a pressure bleeder. It attaches to the resorvoir and pushes fluid through the entire system.
I don't see how you could have messed up anything while doing brakes.
I don't see how you could have messed up anything while doing brakes.
10-27-2008, 08:13 AM
#3
couldnt you use a mityvac to do the opposite thing? Hook a line up to the bleeder, thats dipped in brake fluid, then pump away on the mityvac , close the bleeder and.. your done??
10-27-2008, 08:44 AM
#4
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10-27-2008, 07:59 PM
#8
Man I saw one of those whole kits too, when i was there yesterday. I didn't know it would work as a a vaccum and a pump.
So lettme get this all straight:
1-Get under tha car, crack the bleed valve open on the tranny.
2-Go up top and start pump fluid into the resv (i.e. forcing it all into the clutch hydraulic system) and
3-wait until i hear, or see plenty of fluid is coming out of the bleeder valve below,
4-close the valve and it should be free and clear of air? (or there abouts)
Just want to make sure I got it all correct here
So lettme get this all straight:
1-Get under tha car, crack the bleed valve open on the tranny.
2-Go up top and start pump fluid into the resv (i.e. forcing it all into the clutch hydraulic system) and
3-wait until i hear, or see plenty of fluid is coming out of the bleeder valve below,
4-close the valve and it should be free and clear of air? (or there abouts)
Just want to make sure I got it all correct here
(Borg-Warner or Tremec's) so I really appreciate the help guys! 
10-28-2008, 12:14 AM
#12
On The Tree
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haha. indeed, dot3 is one of the worst things ive ever tasted. and i just finished putting my LS7 clutch in on sunday. did the master, slave, everything. (btw doing the master almost made me want to sell the car). but i was so suprised because bleeding the hydraulics only took me about 5-10 minutes!!!
i did the hole in the floor and the best way was just to give the clutch 5-6 pumps, hold the pedal, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder, pedal up, repeat. i couldnt believe how fast it went. ...just remember to have someone make sure the reservoir doesnt drop and suck air!!!
the reason i didnt do the mityvac is because apparently if you put too much vacuum, youll blow the seals in the master. just keep that in mind
noone wants to do a master for no reason 
i did the hole in the floor and the best way was just to give the clutch 5-6 pumps, hold the pedal, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder, pedal up, repeat. i couldnt believe how fast it went. ...just remember to have someone make sure the reservoir doesnt drop and suck air!!!the reason i didnt do the mityvac is because apparently if you put too much vacuum, youll blow the seals in the master. just keep that in mind
noone wants to do a master for no reason
10-28-2008, 08:59 AM
#13
I can see blowing the seals if the bleeder were closed, but with it open there shouldn't be much pressure in the system.
10-28-2008, 02:27 PM
#14
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Thats what i figured, but i just didnt want to take the chance after how much of a PITA it was to get the new master in. I think the reason the the conventional bleeding went so easy for me is because after i did the drill mod, i bench bled the **** outta the master.
11-01-2008, 05:04 PM
#15
Well I gave the mity vac option a shot today. Tried it a couple of times, still with no luck.
Im assuming the master cylinder has to be toast, when the new fluid and is introduced to the system I can see a multitude of tiny little black fragments before they both mix together fully. I assume this is a seal thats breaking up, the same seal possibly that is allowing the hydaulic [preesure to be bleeding out? Like if i pump the clutch rapidly a few times it begins to feel pretty good, like its coming back, however if i hold the pedal down for a second or so all "the ***" that was behind the cluch just goes away, then im back to the begiining...Am I correct with this thought of a bad master cylinder
Im assuming the master cylinder has to be toast, when the new fluid and is introduced to the system I can see a multitude of tiny little black fragments before they both mix together fully. I assume this is a seal thats breaking up, the same seal possibly that is allowing the hydaulic [preesure to be bleeding out? Like if i pump the clutch rapidly a few times it begins to feel pretty good, like its coming back, however if i hold the pedal down for a second or so all "the ***" that was behind the cluch just goes away, then im back to the begiining...Am I correct with this thought of a bad master cylinder
11-01-2008, 05:13 PM
#16
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Well I gave the mity vac option a shot today. Tried it a couple of times, still with no luck.
Im assuming the master cylinder has to be toast, when the new fluid and is introduced to the system I can see a multitude of tiny little black fragments before they both mix together fully. I assume this is a seal thats breaking up, the same seal possibly that is allowing the hydaulic [preesure to be bleeding out? Like if i pump the clutch rapidly a few times it begins to feel pretty good, like its coming back, however if i hold the pedal down for a second or so all "the ***" that was behind the cluch just goes away, then im back to the begiining...Am I correct with this thought of a bad master cylinder
Im assuming the master cylinder has to be toast, when the new fluid and is introduced to the system I can see a multitude of tiny little black fragments before they both mix together fully. I assume this is a seal thats breaking up, the same seal possibly that is allowing the hydaulic [preesure to be bleeding out? Like if i pump the clutch rapidly a few times it begins to feel pretty good, like its coming back, however if i hold the pedal down for a second or so all "the ***" that was behind the cluch just goes away, then im back to the begiining...Am I correct with this thought of a bad master cylinder