I'm about to install a Spec stage III clutch and billet flywheel, I'm planning on doing the drill mod, but it looks like a score of people are having major problems gettting all the air out. Whats going on? Why havent I heard about this before? I've been coming here going on 2 years and have heard of the drill mod, but just recently these problems with bleeding the master and slave.

I'm having second thoughts on the drill mod....

 

I would recommend the drill mod even though bleeding the master cylinder can be a pain in the ***.

I used Buschman's clutch bleed method and it worked.

 

I have a way I can bleed a dry system (no brake fluid in it what so ever) in less than 10 minutes once you do the mod I describe below to the slave cylinder bleed screw. I have not posted this on my web site yet, but I do have some pictures and intend to write this up when I get a chance.

Basically what I do is:

Slave cylinder MOD
1) remove the long bleed screw from the slave cylinder
2) enlarge the hole in the end of the bleed screw (drill it out to the right size for a tap)
3) tap the enlarged hole for the correct threads for a brake bleeder
4) install the brake bleeder with red lock tight so it will stay put

Preparation and actual bleeding process
1) wrap the long bleed screw threads with plenty of Teflon tape or use a hardening sealer ***you need to do this to prevent air from getting sucked into the system through the bleed screw threads – notice that brake bleed screw have a hard sealer on them to accomplish this***
2) reinstall the long bleed screw (let the hardening sealer dry if you use that instead of Teflon tape)
3) tighten the bleed screw and put a open end box end wrench on the brake bleed screw you installed > this will give you a way to loosen and tighten the long bleed screw without using a socket that covers the end > the brake bleed you installed should stick out past the bell housing where the original long bleed screw does not
4) connect a piece of clear hose to the brake bleed screw you install and put the other end into a bottle of clean brake fluid
5) put one of the cone shaped tips on the end of your MightyVac brake bleeding hose > you will want to use a cone that you can insert into the hole at the bottom of the master cylinder fluid reservoir
6) insert the cone on the end of the MightyVac hose into the hole at the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir > This should fit tightly so it does not come out accidentally > you can also fill the reservoir around the cone and hose with brake fluid to prevent any are from entering the system when you eventually remove the hose
7) pump up some vacuum with the MightVac > you should be able to suck brake fluid up from the bottle of clean brake fluid you have connected to the slave cylinder bleed screw ***Make sure you don’t get brake fluid into the MightyVac itself – watch the level of fluid in the MightyVac reservoir closely***
8) you can pump the clutch pedal a few times to help get air out of master and get it primed
9) release the vacuum and pump the clutch pedal to pump brake fluid from the MightyVac fluid reservoir back into the bottle attached to your slave cylinder
10) you can do this back and forth a few times until you think you have gotten the air out
11) tighten the slave bleed screw with the wrench you should already have on the slave cylinder bleed screw
12) test the brake feel

If it does not feel right open the slave cylinder bleed screw just a small amount (less than 1/10th of a turn) and repeat the process a couple of times back and forth.

I know pictures would help, but I don’t have them on my web site yet.

You will need the following:

- old or new brake bleed screw > make sure it is not a speed bleeder with a one way check ball > you can cut the cone (seat) off the end that typically goes in the caliper to improve flow > pick one that will allow for drilling and tapping of the long bleed screw from the slave cylinder
- Teflon tape or hardening sealer
- Correct size drill and tap for the bleed screw (a drill press makes the drilling easier, but a hand drill and vice work as well)
- Correct size open end box end wrench for the brake bleeder you select > smaller makes for more room to work
- MightyVac with fluid reservoir and various hoses and tips (cone tips) This comes with the MightyVac
- Clean Brake fluid (I use Valvoline DOT ¾ synthetic – if you spill it on the ground it just evaporates by the next morning)
- 5+ feet of clear vinyl tubing > if you get enough you can set in the drivers seat with the MightVac and do the bleeding from there ***Make sure you support the MightyVac fluid reservoir so it does not tip over > I use a metal can or a plastic bottle with the top cut off and tap it to a piece of 2x4 > I then use a piece of plywood setting on the engine to set this on***

I have bleed completely dry clutch system with new slaves and new McLeod masters (harder to bleed than stock) in less than 10 minutes with this method. I have done this 5 times without fail.

Yes – do the drill mod. I did not have to worry about this since I had fabricated a new high pressure hose already.

project web

I hope this helps.
Scott

 

Too bad you're not local by Seattle, I'd bribe you to do mine and I'd watch.

 

Grant - wish I could help, but if you can try this yourself I think you will like it. It works great.

-ssh