Master Cylinders
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 4
From: Gainesville, GA
Master Cylinders I am in the research part of my next project: relpacing the stock clutch. While I got a good run out of the original (132k miles, half of that with a cam) its finally giving up the ghost. I can hear crap rattling at certain RPMs, I hear a sqeak when I use the clutch (like a fanbelt squeek), and it won't hardly shift at all unless you keep pressure on the gear and slowly let out the clutch. So, its done. 
I am tossing clutch ideas around in my head, and have it narrowed down to a few. I am going to replace everything in its path, and I am trying to figure out if the master cylinders from Auto Parts places are any good. I haven't read anything negative about them. I used to work at Advance Auto, so I know that game.
Has anyone had a positive/negative experience when using a master/slave from a manufacturer that isnt RAM or GM?
I am tossing clutch ideas around in my head, and have it narrowed down to a few. I am going to replace everything in its path, and I am trying to figure out if the master cylinders from Auto Parts places are any good. I haven't read anything negative about them. I used to work at Advance Auto, so I know that game.
Has anyone had a positive/negative experience when using a master/slave from a manufacturer that isnt RAM or GM?
Even brand new factory stock master cylinders aren't up to snuff, so I can't imagine that aftermarket knockoffs would be any better.
Do yourself and your next clutch a favor - upgrade to the Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder. It flows more fluid than the stocker and relieves any possibility of clutch disengagement issues - therefore saving your clutch AND extending the life of your T56.
The Tick Master/GM Slave Combo is the best shifting setup for these cars.
Do yourself and your next clutch a favor - upgrade to the Tick Performance Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder. It flows more fluid than the stocker and relieves any possibility of clutch disengagement issues - therefore saving your clutch AND extending the life of your T56.
The Tick Master/GM Slave Combo is the best shifting setup for these cars.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 4
From: Gainesville, GA
Dude, no doubt that your master cylinder is the best on the market, but its over 4 times more expensive than what you can get from a parts house. My car isnt a 700 hp wheel standing monster and probably never will be (never say never 
). In this economy I am forced to look for a deal that will put my DD back on the road. Thanks though.
Anyone else care to share about their experiences with the in-town master cylinders?
). In this economy I am forced to look for a deal that will put my DD back on the road. Thanks though. Anyone else care to share about their experiences with the in-town master cylinders?
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 4
From: Gainesville, GA
Well, 132k miles on a stocker seems to be pretty good. And if a $95 master cylinder will only last for 10 years and 132k miles, then I couldnt imagine what one that costs over $300 would do. Man!
If stock and stock replacement parts are bad, then what were all the 600, 700, and 800 hp cars using before the tick master cylinder? Were they all werent using a Ram or Mcleod?
If stock and stock replacement parts are bad, then what were all the 600, 700, and 800 hp cars using before the tick master cylinder? Were they all werent using a Ram or Mcleod?
About 80% of those cars aren't daily drivers either. A brand new GM master is 140$ shipped. Go ahead and buy an el cheapo master, its your car. Your best bet is a GM master and ls7 clutch.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 4
From: Gainesville, GA
Actually they all come from one place: http://www.apracing.com/index.asp GM, Autozone, NAPA, Advance... all of them have an "A P" stamped on them somewhere, or that's what I've read all over this site when searching for master/slave cylinder info. So if someone prefers to purchase PN 12570277 from GM for $140, then cool. I would rather get the same thing for about $50 less from someone who is concerned about customer service (worked at Advance for almost 8 years), and not from someone needing bail-out money.
But, since this is kinda what I asked for, what Master Cylinder do you recommend? And if it is the tick, what benefit will I see with it that is worth an extra $250? BTW, the LS7 clutch is one on my list
But, since this is kinda what I asked for, what Master Cylinder do you recommend? And if it is the tick, what benefit will I see with it that is worth an extra $250? BTW, the LS7 clutch is one on my list
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Verdad Gallardo Fair enough Kurt - I definitely understand being on a budget! Since you asked, I'll spill the beans. Earlier in the thread, you said "I couldnt imagine what one that costs over $300 would do." Picture this: our adjustable master cylinder kit is one of only two on the market that flow more fluid than the stock unit. This is important because the stock hydraulics are weak, and often don't allow full clutch disengagement, even in stock cars with stock clutches. Issues with clutch disengagement often cause premature clutch wear/failure, and well as damaging the actual transmission itself. This is the main reason that we rebuild so many of these things.
We've done TONS of T56 Rebuilds are probably less than 5% of them are out of "700 hp wheel standing monsters".
Still can't justify the added cost of our kit? Fair enough: you can cross your fingers now and hope that the stock stuff works well enough to get you by, OR you can spend the extra $250 now and save yourself the $900+ dollars on a T56 rebuild in the future (assuming the damage isn't already done). Not even mentioning the hundreds you'll save on clutches over the years.
No pressure at all buddy - just giving you the facts from an insider. Best of luck, no matter your choice.
We've done TONS of T56 Rebuilds are probably less than 5% of them are out of "700 hp wheel standing monsters".
Still can't justify the added cost of our kit? Fair enough: you can cross your fingers now and hope that the stock stuff works well enough to get you by, OR you can spend the extra $250 now and save yourself the $900+ dollars on a T56 rebuild in the future (assuming the damage isn't already done). Not even mentioning the hundreds you'll save on clutches over the years.
No pressure at all buddy - just giving you the facts from an insider. Best of luck, no matter your choice.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 4
From: Gainesville, GA
Hey, now there's an informative and respectable answer. Thank you. It's hard to get facts like that sometimes around here without getting 20 people posting crap like "stock is junk and you shouldnt worry about how much stuff costs..."
Honestly, I could maybe budget a little over $700 for everything: clutch kit, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, tool, master cylinder and slave cylinder. If you know of a way to do that and include yours then please PM me. I am all about buying quality stuff, but I have to draw lines somewhere. As of now, I have a list of all the parts above from various places that are within my budget (LS7 clutch, etc). But by all means, if you know of a better way, or if you think that I can cut something out of my list then PM me. Thanks for the honest answser.
Honestly, I could maybe budget a little over $700 for everything: clutch kit, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, tool, master cylinder and slave cylinder. If you know of a way to do that and include yours then please PM me. I am all about buying quality stuff, but I have to draw lines somewhere. As of now, I have a list of all the parts above from various places that are within my budget (LS7 clutch, etc). But by all means, if you know of a better way, or if you think that I can cut something out of my list then PM me. Thanks for the honest answser.
Hey, now there's an informative and respectable answer. Thank you. It's hard to get facts like that sometimes around here without getting 20 people posting crap like "stock is junk and you shouldnt worry about how much stuff costs..."
Honestly, I could maybe budget a little over $700 for everything: clutch kit, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, tool, master cylinder and slave cylinder. If you know of a way to do that and include yours then please PM me. I am all about buying quality stuff, but I have to draw lines somewhere. As of now, I have a list of all the parts above from various places that are within my budget (LS7 clutch, etc). But by all means, if you know of a better way, or if you think that I can cut something out of my list then PM me. Thanks for the honest answser.
Honestly, I could maybe budget a little over $700 for everything: clutch kit, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, tool, master cylinder and slave cylinder. If you know of a way to do that and include yours then please PM me. I am all about buying quality stuff, but I have to draw lines somewhere. As of now, I have a list of all the parts above from various places that are within my budget (LS7 clutch, etc). But by all means, if you know of a better way, or if you think that I can cut something out of my list then PM me. Thanks for the honest answser.
You decide what your goals are for the car, mine is 100% my DD as well with almost 100,000 miles on it. Car will be bottle fed so I needed something to withstand the juice. I would of gone with the ls7, but I didn't like the idea of putting in a heavier flywheel and slowing me down.
I have alot of suspension mods and drag radials, no power adders. The clutch is still notchy like when I first got it but it works. It could be from the worn out slave. I wanted the better mc but I can't spend that much money on it. I am very abusive to my car too and everything works fine. I'm sure that tick one is god but I can't spend that money on something 3x's as expensive. I'm not knocking the Tick's mc but I don't believe it cost that much to build...
I have alot of suspension mods and drag radials, no power adders. The clutch is still notchy like when I first got it but it works. It could be from the worn out slave. I wanted the better mc but I can't spend that much money on it. I am very abusive to my car too and everything works fine. I'm sure that tick one is god but I can't spend that money on something 3x's as expensive. I'm not knocking the Tick's mc but I don't believe it cost that much to build...
Popcorn...as I am interested in one of the Tick Masters fr my Z06. I have gone through 2 Tex OZ700...first was due to a faulty pressure plate, second is fine it just can hold up to 850rwhp. Once I decide on what clutch I am going with I will be in touch.
I have alot of suspension mods and drag radials, no power adders. The clutch is still notchy like when I first got it but it works. It could be from the worn out slave. I wanted the better mc but I can't spend that much money on it. I am very abusive to my car too and everything works fine. I'm sure that tick one is god but I can't spend that money on something 3x's as expensive. I'm not knocking the Tick's mc but I don't believe it cost that much to build...
Again, not trying to give you a sales pitch, just making the point that while relatively expensive, our kits are by FAR the most valuable on the market. If you ever get a chance to drive one of these cars with our kit installed - DO IT. I'd bet the house you'd be ordering one the same day.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,148
Likes: 4
From: Gainesville, GA
Just thought I'd find this post and do a little updating:
I ended up getting a monster level III clutch, with slave, and couldnt be happier! In the process of installing the clutch I found the rattling sound that I described in the OP, it was the pilot bearing beavering the input shaft.... $1280 rebuild later I've got a rebuilt stock T56 (didnt have the time to send it to Tick, moving from AL to TN in 2 days). The Moster clutch is bad ***. Definitely recommend it to everyone.
SNL (monster) also recommended to me that I get a Tick master. At this point in the game I couldnt buy anything else for this project, as I was really bled dry due to the unexpected tranny issue.
About a month later I started noticing a spongie clutch pedal. Long story in the short, my stock master of 135k miles (98 hydraulics) is sucking air. Hard first/reverse engagement, scratchy 5th gear. Not wanting to take any chances ruining another transmission I dropped the cash on a Tick master.
Its sitting on the desk with me here and I must say, its a beast. I cant wait to put it in. After watching the videos of the vette on their website banging thru the gears, and hearing more and more people talk about it, feeling the difference a fully bled hydraulicsystem makes, and thinking about how retarted it is to replace my MC with a stock one after putting in a clutch that holds 700rwhp... I made up my mind.
Moral of the story:
If you can't afford good parts now, then keep saving until you can. Feel free to "I told you so" all you want I surrender!
Next is the rear end, then probably another engine.
I'll update one more time after its in!
I ended up getting a monster level III clutch, with slave, and couldnt be happier! In the process of installing the clutch I found the rattling sound that I described in the OP, it was the pilot bearing beavering the input shaft.... $1280 rebuild later
I've got a rebuilt stock T56 (didnt have the time to send it to Tick, moving from AL to TN in 2 days). The Moster clutch is bad ***. Definitely recommend it to everyone. SNL (monster) also recommended to me that I get a Tick master. At this point in the game I couldnt buy anything else for this project, as I was really bled dry due to the unexpected tranny issue.
About a month later I started noticing a spongie clutch pedal. Long story in the short, my stock master of 135k miles (98 hydraulics) is sucking air. Hard first/reverse engagement, scratchy 5th gear. Not wanting to take any chances ruining another transmission I dropped the cash on a Tick master.
Its sitting on the desk with me here and I must say, its a beast. I cant wait to put it in. After watching the videos of the vette on their website banging thru the gears, and hearing more and more people talk about it, feeling the difference a fully bled hydraulicsystem makes, and thinking about how retarted it is to replace my MC with a stock one after putting in a clutch that holds 700rwhp... I made up my mind.
Moral of the story:
If you can't afford good parts now, then keep saving until you can. Feel free to "I told you so" all you want
I surrender!Next is the rear end, then probably another engine.
I'll update one more time after its in!
Just thought I'd find this post and do a little updating:
I ended up getting a monster level III clutch, with slave, and couldnt be happier! In the process of installing the clutch I found the rattling sound that I described in the OP, it was the pilot bearing beavering the input shaft.... $1280 rebuild later I've got a rebuilt stock T56 (didnt have the time to send it to Tick, moving from AL to TN in 2 days). The Moster clutch is bad ***. Definitely recommend it to everyone.
SNL (monster) also recommended to me that I get a Tick master. At this point in the game I couldnt buy anything else for this project, as I was really bled dry due to the unexpected tranny issue.
About a month later I started noticing a spongie clutch pedal. Long story in the short, my stock master of 135k miles (98 hydraulics) is sucking air. Hard first/reverse engagement, scratchy 5th gear. Not wanting to take any chances ruining another transmission I dropped the cash on a Tick master.
Its sitting on the desk with me here and I must say, its a beast. I cant wait to put it in. After watching the videos of the vette on their website banging thru the gears, and hearing more and more people talk about it, feeling the difference a fully bled hydraulicsystem makes, and thinking about how retarted it is to replace my MC with a stock one after putting in a clutch that holds 700rwhp... I made up my mind.
Moral of the story:
If you can't afford good parts now, then keep saving until you can. Feel free to "I told you so" all you want I surrender!
Next is the rear end, then probably another engine.
I'll update one more time after its in!
I ended up getting a monster level III clutch, with slave, and couldnt be happier! In the process of installing the clutch I found the rattling sound that I described in the OP, it was the pilot bearing beavering the input shaft.... $1280 rebuild later
I've got a rebuilt stock T56 (didnt have the time to send it to Tick, moving from AL to TN in 2 days). The Moster clutch is bad ***. Definitely recommend it to everyone. SNL (monster) also recommended to me that I get a Tick master. At this point in the game I couldnt buy anything else for this project, as I was really bled dry due to the unexpected tranny issue.
About a month later I started noticing a spongie clutch pedal. Long story in the short, my stock master of 135k miles (98 hydraulics) is sucking air. Hard first/reverse engagement, scratchy 5th gear. Not wanting to take any chances ruining another transmission I dropped the cash on a Tick master.
Its sitting on the desk with me here and I must say, its a beast. I cant wait to put it in. After watching the videos of the vette on their website banging thru the gears, and hearing more and more people talk about it, feeling the difference a fully bled hydraulicsystem makes, and thinking about how retarted it is to replace my MC with a stock one after putting in a clutch that holds 700rwhp... I made up my mind.
Moral of the story:
If you can't afford good parts now, then keep saving until you can. Feel free to "I told you so" all you want
I surrender!Next is the rear end, then probably another engine.
I'll update one more time after its in!
The one reason why I personally recommend the Tick master is because the stock hydraulics in these cars are so bad to begin with. Changing the clutch and hydraulics is a time consuming job, why would you want to do it twice?