I got the car finished with the new LS7 clutch weeks ago but I've put off bleeding the slave. So I drilled in the trans tunnel and I'm using the one-man method. Only I've put about half a 32oz bottle through the damn thing with absolutely no difference in pedal feel. The crap is all over the driveway. I pump and hold, crack bleeder, close bleeder, repeat. It'll build enough pressure to squirt a healthy amount of fluid now and then and I've kept the reservoir full the entire time. How is 16oz not enough to fill the master (which I drained during install) and the slave (which is new)??

The car has just been sitting here with a new clutch in it for weeks and I can't put any miles on it until I get some pedal pressure.

 

Try to open bleeder than press pedal to floor, close bleeder pull pedal back up method to see if this does any better. Also might want to try to have the car warmed up, sometimes the heat alone will help push the bubbles out. Just some things to try.

 

Pretty much what Busa said.Your method is wrong for bleeding a clutch.open bleeder,press down peddle and shut bleeder before the peddle bottoms out.Should take 2-3 times and your all set.

 

Ahh OK that seems to be working a little better. I can feel friction now and the pedal is pressurized up to about the 1/2 point. That's all I have in me for tonight. Gotta catch up on the NCAA game

 

How/why did you drain the master? It's a good idea to bench bleed the master when you install a new one. Maybe also if you completely drain it.

 

If the master went dry or is dry to begin with, a bench bleed is something you really should do. Due to the odd shape of the master regardless of how many times you bleed, air can still get trapped inside. I noticed that when I bench bled mine after the drill mod I had a half full reservoir of air leaving it hanging in the morning so air could work its way up. The night before I had thought I bench bled it to full using a spare slave to cycle it all out.

Once in car a year and a half later, I had an incident during the bleed where my dad pumped it while open. Air got in, but I supposedly got it back to normal. Later on that air showed up as stuck pedal on long drives. In car, only a mityvac helped me with getting that air out as I had tried bleeding it in car like 4 separate times after that and it still got stuck.

 

Black 100k mile fluid is why I chose to drain the master. Then I wiped down the reservoir and black diaphragm and gravity-bled it with new fluid. I also put a DEI 800*F heat-shield on the hydraulic line before connecting it to the new slave.

 

I emptied the reservoir with a syringe when I did my clutch. In fact I try to change the fluid in the reservoir regularly since I read this in the sticky above:
http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

I didn't let the master run dry though, just ran new fluid through it when I bled it.

 

Got it all back together yesterday afternoon. The LS7 clutch is working flawlessly. Engagement is still a little closer to the floor than I'd like, but it's buttery smooth and pedal pressure is identical to the original it replaced after 100k miles. Put under 70 break-in miles on it since while keeping it below 3000rpm.

I think this is going to be a comfortable clutch and it should easily hold my mild power.

Thanks for the bleeding tips guys. I don't know why so many other threads have the wrong method.