RAM HDX Clutch
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Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
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RAM HDX Clutch Well I received my RAM HDX clutch today. My stock clutch lasted me 78K miles. I obviously didn't abuse my car, but... my motor broke a rod and busted holes in both sides of the block (Go GM!). Well now I have another hunk of LS1 aluminum (aka:motor) to put in my car so I'm replacing the stock clutch while I'm at it. My car is a stock 2002 Firehawk that will now have a stock 2000 LS1 motor. I have a question and some observations to make about the RAM clutch.
1) I had my stock flywheel resurfaced. It has two dowel pins on it that are used to align the pressure plate. The RAM clutch does not have the alignment holes for the dowel pins. Do I just pull them out and toss them?
2) The RAM clutch disk seems thinner than the stock disk and the depth of the material relative to the pins seems very shallow. I decided to compare measurements with my stock clutch disk (w/ 78K miles on it).
Stock Clutch Disk - Thickness = 8.8-8.9mm ; Depth=2.8mm
RAM Clutch Disk (new) - Thickness = 7.8-7.85mm; Depth=1.7mm
Imagine that, the old, stock disk is thicker than the new RAM disk. I'm a little concerned about the thickness of the RAM clutch disk material especially, how little material/meat it has before it reaches the pins. Common sense tells me the clutch won't last long. Any thoughts or experience? Maybe I should have gone the LS7 route that I've been reading so much about.
Comment: The RAM pressure plate is PINK/FUCIA! Not that it really matters, but what were they thinking? LOL!
Thanks!
1) I had my stock flywheel resurfaced. It has two dowel pins on it that are used to align the pressure plate. The RAM clutch does not have the alignment holes for the dowel pins. Do I just pull them out and toss them?
2) The RAM clutch disk seems thinner than the stock disk and the depth of the material relative to the pins seems very shallow. I decided to compare measurements with my stock clutch disk (w/ 78K miles on it).
Stock Clutch Disk - Thickness = 8.8-8.9mm ; Depth=2.8mm
RAM Clutch Disk (new) - Thickness = 7.8-7.85mm; Depth=1.7mm
Imagine that, the old, stock disk is thicker than the new RAM disk. I'm a little concerned about the thickness of the RAM clutch disk material especially, how little material/meat it has before it reaches the pins. Common sense tells me the clutch won't last long. Any thoughts or experience? Maybe I should have gone the LS7 route that I've been reading so much about.
Comment: The RAM pressure plate is PINK/FUCIA! Not that it really matters, but what were they thinking? LOL!
Thanks!
1st off
Yes you will just have to knock the dowells off and chunk them.
If you had your flywheel resurfaced you will probably need a flywheel shim
the ram disk looked thinner than my stock one to.
you will probably have to have the throwout shim to get the proper distance, considering that the kit came with a shim, I had my flywheel resurfaced, .025 and then bought a .025 shim. when I installed the clutch using the measuring method that comes with the clutch I still had to add the throwout shim.
I installed the same ram clutch you have, and I think it is junk. I have around 3000 miles on it and it is slipping, I followed the break in procedure for the clutch, I am hard on my car, but this clutch was rated for 500+ HP, right now I just have bolt ons. When I do my H/C swap I am going to have to put another clutch in. My next clutch will probably be the monster set-up. Just my 2 cents, I am very unpleased with this clutch setup and consider it garbage. Sorry to be the one to tell you my negative exp. But I went with the ram because so many were complaining about the spec that I couldnt buy that one.
Yes you will just have to knock the dowells off and chunk them.
If you had your flywheel resurfaced you will probably need a flywheel shim
the ram disk looked thinner than my stock one to.
you will probably have to have the throwout shim to get the proper distance, considering that the kit came with a shim, I had my flywheel resurfaced, .025 and then bought a .025 shim. when I installed the clutch using the measuring method that comes with the clutch I still had to add the throwout shim.
I installed the same ram clutch you have, and I think it is junk. I have around 3000 miles on it and it is slipping, I followed the break in procedure for the clutch, I am hard on my car, but this clutch was rated for 500+ HP, right now I just have bolt ons. When I do my H/C swap I am going to have to put another clutch in. My next clutch will probably be the monster set-up. Just my 2 cents, I am very unpleased with this clutch setup and consider it garbage. Sorry to be the one to tell you my negative exp. But I went with the ram because so many were complaining about the spec that I couldnt buy that one.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 22
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Flywheel shim too? For .025"? Where do I get one? I wouldn't think that you need one if you make the proper measurements and shim the slave cylinder. My RAM kit didn't come with slave cylinder shims, so where do I get them if I need one? On the phone, their tech guy told me I don't need to shim for the HDX kit, but of course, only the measurement will tell.
Well that's too bad about your clutch slipping. I bought the RAM HDX kit for the same reason... that is, a lot of bad hype about the SPEC clutches. In the end, I think I should have bought the LS7/LS2 set-up. Really, all I want is a good clutch that will give me a lot of miles and let me step on it once in a while without slipping like the stock one.
Thanks!
Well that's too bad about your clutch slipping. I bought the RAM HDX kit for the same reason... that is, a lot of bad hype about the SPEC clutches. In the end, I think I should have bought the LS7/LS2 set-up. Really, all I want is a good clutch that will give me a lot of miles and let me step on it once in a while without slipping like the stock one.
Thanks!
