Multiple Problems After Clutch Install.....
~ New Billet McLeod Flywheel
~ Organic/Kevlar McLeod clutch w/ McLeod Pressure Plate
~ Updated master and slave cylinder
~ Drill Mod
When I first started the car up, it had trouble trying to idle, when I test drove it down the road, it was still having trouble trying to idle. Is this because I had my battery disconnected for a long period of time? Also, It goes into 1st, 6th, and reverse ok, but is kind of notchy.
I put new Amsoil Synthetic ATF in it. The clutch also feels like it isn't holding really well either. Does it need some breaking in before it starts to grab? Any opinion are appreciated.
Thanks,
Robbie Clarke
What are your mods?
Where is the engagement point of your clutch pedal?
Is the pedal spongy or is the engagement point inconsistent?
If you are sitting on a flat surface with the clutch pressed in and brake released, what happens when you rev the motor? Does it want to move?
~ QTP LT
~ QTP Y Pipe with Carsound Cats
~ Loudmouth
~ MAFT
~ Intake w/ smooth bellow
~ Pro 5.0
The engagement point is right after I begin to let off of the clutch. The pedal feels a little spongy and it engages the same point every time. When I reved the engine, when idled back down, it was searching for an idling point, at one point, it went all the way down to about 300. It's weird because the car was running great before this, and after the install, it was acting funny. Car doesn't move when I rev it with the clutch in. Do you think there could be air in the system still, causing the notchy shifting and the feeling of the clutch slipping (hopefully just me)? Help me out!!!

What procedure did you use to bleed the clutch?
I was unable to get the air out of my clutch using the pump and bleed described in the shop manual. I bench bled the master cylinder?
http://www.phpinc.biz/clutchbleed.html
If you didn't bench bleed it, all is not lost because you can pull a vacuum on the resevoir and possibly get all the air out.
In any case, the clutch shouldn't be slipping if their is air in the hydraulics. Air makes it hard to get the clutch to disengage, which makes it hard to shift. It makes the pedal spongy and the engagement point will move around sometimes.
Are you sure that everything is installed properly and torqued?
This will cause alot of damage to your synchronizers if driving it for extended periods of time. My suggestion to you would be to keep a constant eye on your fluid.. make sure you don't have any leaks. Try rebleeding the clutch/master cylinder a few times. You might try letting it sit and bleed for extended periods of time when you open up the bleeder. Or do what I had to do, and get an adjustable master to get rid of the notchiness and overall cruddy feeling.. Also check your hydraulic lines and make sure they are clear of air pump and exhaust.. This will cause an extremely notchy feeling.
Good Luck!
Robbie
With the battery disconnected for long periods of time it resets itself which will cause crappy idle when first started.
Answer your own question about slipping.Go out and WOT some shifts and see if the car breaks loose.
The Mcloed clutch is a very soft hitting clutch.Pop it and it will hold.
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I would try to use the hand vacuum pump and get all the air out first.
If that doesn't work, then you might have to loctite and torque the PP bolts.
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