Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

transmission swap

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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Im doing my A4 to M6 swap on my 2000 T/A saturday. Let me know if im missing any thing.

I have:
-T56 trans.
-Clutch.
-Flywheel.
-Master cyl.
-Slave cyl.
-Pilot bearing.
-Shifter.
-Both rubber boots.
-T56 crossmember.
-Pedal assy.

Last edited by Greg Pippin; Mar 26, 2009 at 09:15 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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ttt....
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 08:48 AM
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Looks like everything. What are you doing with wiring? If you are rewiring the A4 harness you will need some splices, wire, and connectors.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by '00Formula
Looks like everything. What are you doing with wiring? If you are rewiring the A4 harness you will need some splices, wire, and connectors.
im just going to hook up the vss and not worry about the rest
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
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Greg

You are going to have to drill a hole for the master cylinder. If my car was down there I would let you look at it to get a reference point on where to drill
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 04:28 PM
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i have done this swap about 4 years ago so bit rusty though. yeah your going to have to dill a hole for the slave cylinder. 4 holes total in the swap. i was limited on tools then so i will just fill you in on what i used. the markings are there(slave) for it it helps if you have a t56 car next to you as i did. i used two drill bits one small one large. i marked the hole and the mounting holes for it and drilled many small holes in a circle about 2-3mm apart. once i had a complete circle i used the bigger drill bit to make the holes connect by drilling into the smaller holes. vola! now i used the bigger drill bit to drill the other two holes for mounting and cleaned up the big hole for the slave. the 4th hole is the one for your shifter and i used a small electric saw for it. just make sure you don't cut the hole too big because you have to mount the shifter boot onto it. https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...onversion.html i found this but i used another website to wire the reverse light, reverse lockout (btw i put on a toggle switch and it works great), speedo, and my skip shift is just unplugged. well i hope this is helpful to you and maybe someone else.

Last edited by TRANSAM/FORMULA; Mar 27, 2009 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 06:33 PM
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I cut the hole and mounted the master cylinder, and mounted it and the pedals last weekend. I have been beating around the bush about cutting the hole for the shifter boot, im going to do that right before i put the transmission in.

Kyle, it would have been a lot better and easier to have a nother car sitting there beside it to look at. I just mounted the pedals and started drilling, and got a hole saw about the same size as the master cyl, It want too bad.

Thanks guys, keep the advice coming.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
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Glad to see you are making progress on it. Did you ever get a shifter?
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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dont you also need a new computer, or at least a tune?
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
Glad to see you are making progress on it. Did you ever get a shifter?
Yeah, i got a stock shifter. Im going to get with you when you get back and get that Hurst shifter from you.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by slvr98camaro
dont you also need a new computer, or at least a tune?
Yep, Im going to do my cam swap next weekend, so im going to get it tuned after i get all my mods done.

Last edited by Greg Pippin; Mar 27, 2009 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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Also,
I was looking at my A4 torque arm and bracket, and im just going to make something work untill i can get one for a M6 car.
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 07:19 AM
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
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The M6 torque arm should work, from what I have saw they are nearly identical. My Z28 has a factory Hurst and should be out of the car by the time I get back
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 08:34 AM
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While you have everything pulled apart...might want to go with a remote bleeder also.
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Old Mar 28, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Z28/2002
The M6 torque arm should work, from what I have saw they are nearly identical. My Z28 has a factory Hurst and should be out of the car by the time I get back
I think the torque arm will work, but they have different part#'s?? I dont know what the difference is.
The bracket is completely different, but i will make it work, i have a torch and welder and some scrap metal...
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 04:06 PM
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Ok, I got everything in the car this morning, and i cant get the slave cyl to bleed. What am i doing wrong??
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 09:40 PM
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I had this problem too and it was a complete pain in the ***. i pumped that pedal a million times to get all the air out. i had it real close and then came up with the idea the the pedal was a bit too far out??? so i used a socket and extension with the aid of a hammer and tap the clutch slave closer to the pedal. it was a long shot but it worked and has been working ever since. going on 5 years and two clutches to this day. upgraded on the last clutch when i had to fix a rear main seal. so just keep on pumping!! good luck!
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Old Mar 29, 2009 | 10:12 PM
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i have been pumping my *** off. but it aint getting any better. i got the air out of the line from the master cyl to the bleeder screw, but the slave cyl acts like it dont want to take the fluid
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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when i ran into the problem i also ended up buying a new slave but had the same problem even though it was brand new and was suppose to be prebleeded (not sure if that is even a word) so after spending 3 days on this after work i decided to try and make the pedal closer to the slave. it work and it's worth a shot. half an inch can make the difference.
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Old Mar 30, 2009 | 10:53 PM
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found a FASTER and BETTER way to bleed the system. it only took 3 minutes to do it!!!!
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